I am planning on lining my prefab chimney but needing to research the right way to terminate the liner at the top of my chimney. Here is a picture of my chimney top. Also below is an adapter I see at one of the online liner stores. Has anybody used one of these adapters and can comment on how well it worked? They cost just under $100 so want to make sure I get something that works.
prefab / factory built liner adapter for top of chase
- Thread starter wahoowad
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summit
Minister of Fire
you need something that allows for airflow thru your aircooled factory fireplace chimney's outer layer.
I *think* the liner adapter shown above does in fact allow that. I've seen another picture where there is a heavy steel mesh underneath it. I believe the unit slides down into the outer layer and comes to rest with the mesh against the top of the doublewall/ The mesh screen keeps it from being sealed off. At least that is how I am thinking it works.
jtp10181
Minister of Fire
We have used it, it works good. We used the one made by Homesaver. Looks like your chimney is a tad short though. I would be concerned about snow/debris blocking the FBLA's venting area. The inside collar on it should slide down into the inner flue at least though. You might be OK with it like that. Don't forget the insulation. If your chimney is not a straight shot get ready for the fight of your life to get an insulated liner down there.
I don't intend to insulate my liner. I'm dropping 20' of 6" flex down the existing 8" pipe. My stove and 8" pipe draft pretty good as is so don't think insulation is worth the extra hassle as you point out.
If I was to insulate it, what kind of insulation would be best for what I'm doing?
If I was to insulate it, what kind of insulation would be best for what I'm doing?
jtp10181
Minister of Fire
The insulation is not for drafting purposes. Read the manual for your insert and liner product you will use.
Putting an insert liner down a prefab chimney is what I would call a grey area. The liner manufacturers don't test for this at all, as there are too many different prefab chim systems out there to test them all. Many insert manufactures have this as an allowed install in their manual but have varying instructions which can be very specific or very vague. Here is an example from the Quad 2700i manual.
The original factory-built clearance fireplace chimney cap
must be re-installed after installing the approved chimney
liner meeting type H.T. requirements (2100°F) per UL
1777. The air flow of the factory-built zero-clearance fireplace
system must not be altered. The flue liner top support
attachment must not reduce the air flow for the existing aircooled
chimney system.
For the liner system to met UL1777 you need the insulation, otherwise it is just an unlisted hunk of stainless steel.
I have spoke with someone who deals with fire claims from fireplaces and he sees a lot of house fires from liners in prefab chimneys that are not done correctly.
Putting an insert liner down a prefab chimney is what I would call a grey area. The liner manufacturers don't test for this at all, as there are too many different prefab chim systems out there to test them all. Many insert manufactures have this as an allowed install in their manual but have varying instructions which can be very specific or very vague. Here is an example from the Quad 2700i manual.
The original factory-built clearance fireplace chimney cap
must be re-installed after installing the approved chimney
liner meeting type H.T. requirements (2100°F) per UL
1777. The air flow of the factory-built zero-clearance fireplace
system must not be altered. The flue liner top support
attachment must not reduce the air flow for the existing aircooled
chimney system.
For the liner system to met UL1777 you need the insulation, otherwise it is just an unlisted hunk of stainless steel.
I have spoke with someone who deals with fire claims from fireplaces and he sees a lot of house fires from liners in prefab chimneys that are not done correctly.
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