Problem: Exhaust/Combustion fan won't turn off on St Croix insert

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dhickok11

Member
Jan 16, 2012
9
Western Mass
Hello,

I have a St Croix York insert, I bought it used and I've used it for 2 seasons, I believe it is a 2005.
The stove runs fine, but for some reason when I power it off, the exhaust/combustion fan will continue to run indefinitely until the unit is unplugged. Also, when I plug it in, the combustion fan turns right on, without the unit being turned on with the power button. It used only power on after turning on the power button and it would turn off on it's own after it cooled. Now, I usually unplug it after the room fan turns off, because I know it is cool at that point, but this is really a hassle, I'd love to just press the power button and not have to worry, also I planned on putting in a thermostat and run it on auto eventually, but the fan is just going to run all day.

Do you think that a new control board will fix this problem?

When I first bought the stove it didn't have this problem, the exhaust fan would turn off on its own, without having to unplug the unit. I don't know what happened. Also, in your replies, please try to speak in layman's term, I am somewhat handy and a DIY'er, but I am not that knowledgeable with electronics.

Thanks in advance for your help,
Dan
 
Welcome!

The likely culprit is the Proof of Fire snap switch. On my Afton Bay, it's mounted right on the combustion blower housing. An easy way to test it is to disconnect it after the stove shuts down and cools off, but the blowers are still running. If the blowers stop when you pull the wire off, the switch is bad. My switch has only 5 volts DC on it, so it's not a shock hazard; I don't know what yours is, so be careful.

It's possible that the control board is bad, but the snap switch is easy to check, cheap to replace yourself.

I just reread your post - if the room blower shuts off on its own after the stove cools, the problem is not the POF switch, more likely the board has a shorted triac. Triacs are inexpensive, but you need to be able to solder and desolder on the circuit board.
 
Mine just did the same about 2 weeks ago

80p20038-r-old oem #
New:
This what you need:
http://www.cshincorporated.com/product_info.php/products_id/127
Good service

That is what it calls for + i have the same stove as you <same year too

Better built than the OEM 2 screws hold it in place just bent the tabs on the new one to line up w/old holes good ;) to go
BTW look at what they want for it>>> http://pellethead.com/products/80P20038-R--Low-Limit-POF-Snap-Switch.html Talk about being HOSED;lol
Within here: http://pellethead.com/categories/Stove-Parts/St.-Croix-Stove-Parts/
 
Grainger ships to you.
 
you can get those at grainger bought 2 for ten bucks dealer wanted 28 each


Which one do you speak of
for a snap disc as i only see $ 9.56 ea not the right application


Meeting this criteria --- closes on rise (allowing current to flow) not open on rise (high heat set limit)

OEM is 110 degrees --on rise (engaging disc completes circuit) allows fan to activate

Does not have to exactly be110 degrees >150 degrees

i just dont see what one you speak of?

One other note: I noticed the one that was close to specs was made in China (grainger)the one from CSH inc is made in Canada (which would you choose?)
 
If you are going to buy a POF that mounts against the exhaust system, do yourself a favor and by a ceramic one.
 
Thanks for all the help.
It appears to be the circuit board. I disconnected the POF switch and the combustion/exhaust fan still ran.
I bought this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/80P30523-R-...062?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c697fc086

I have the old style anyway, so at least it's an upgrade.
Any recommendations for a thermostat? I'd like to install one.
I found this one: http://www.pondscapesgardencenter.com/Thermostat_200_502_80P30031_R_p/80p30031-r.htm

Where do I find an inexpensive ceramic POF, Smokey?
 
Thanks for all the help.
It appears to be the circuit board. I disconnected the POF switch and the combustion/exhaust fan still ran.
Just curious
Did you check the molex connector for possible wire pullout (cross talk) a wire possibly touching one another?

Just want to rule out everything
 
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