Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by Tedinski, Oct 17, 2013.
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I'm always willing to learn something new even at 70 years of age so tell me why or how a 24 volt thermostat is wired differently. Not being arrogant here. I really want to know!
Lux-TX9000TS-Seven-Day-Programmable.... It is about 7 years old and love the big screen which is back lite nicely. Other stove is a TX-1500 but like that one less as it is harder to read.
I have a Braeburn model 5050
Its 7 day programmable and basically the same as what came with our new furnace that heats the rest of the house. The only difference is the 5050 is millivolt ready
IMHO, I think we are getting too involved in what is required to run our pellet stoves UNLESS we want to go hi-tech with WIFI or NEST. Unless your pellet stove has more than two terminals for 'calling for heat', your thermostat is not going to be powered by either a 24 volt AC transformer or a millivolt (.75V) supply. It will be powered by the installed batteries. If the DIGITAL thermostat doesn't have batteries, it's not the one you want. Of course, if it's the old round type with the mercury tube or a bimetal strip, then you are good to go. The only thing the thermostat is doing is closing a contact which completes the circuit in the 'call for heat' logic of the stove. Nothing more is happening. All of the thermostats I've looked at have terminals RATED for 24 volts, which just means that they are heavy duty enough to handle the 50 milliamps or so that your stove is sending to the switch. It doesn't mean that you need a 24 volt power supply.
A lot of the thermostats DO have the capability of being powered by a 24 volt transformer with batteries as a backup but that's for your regular heating system, which has a 24 volt transformer installed. Some gas furnaces in mobile homes have a millivolt supply that is generated by a series of thermocouples but, again, this has nothing to do with pellet stoves AFAIK.
So, get as fancy a thermostat as you want. Just make sure it has batteries to control the logic and close the heating circuit. READ YOUR MANUAL to see if your particular stove DOES ACTUALLY supply power to the thermostat with separate wires than the two call for heat terminals.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
I've thought & thought about this whole subject, and decided to just keep with the bimetal strip thermostat that came with my stove.
When I set it to 63, it kicks on around 61, and turns off around 65. A decent enough window.
While it's not quite as convenient (the house isn't toasty when I get home!) I think it'll do the job just fine. When I get home, I turn it up! simple.
My house is so small that it heats up in notime, even though I've never run on any setting other than "low".
The other trouble with going with a programmable thermostat: My schedule is chaotic! I'd be overriding the thermostat some days, and others it'd be heating the house with nobody home.
Thanks, everybody, for chiming in & giving me info. Even if not needed right now, more knowledge is always a VERY good thing.
It sounds like you have a 2 degree swing with the old style thermostat, which is just in the range that most people shoot for! I only use the programming part on mine to lower the temp at night but, being retired, I find that many times I override even that setting if I'm staying up late. ALSO, being an old fart, I forget to erase the override and wonder why I'm having a heat flash about 3 am when I'm trying to sleep.
I'm trying NOT to follow your adage... "If it's not broke, fix it till it is!"
I usually fiddle with things until they're too complex. maybe i'm capable of learning still!
I have now read my manual multiple times and can not find where it states what t-stat I should use. I have a Harman Accentra. I just don't want to install one and get screwed (voiding warranty) if I have an issue.
Hmm.... My thermostat had been working quite nicely, with a relatively small temperature "window". It seems a bit random, now that I've been running I for a while.
Sometimes it's +/- 2 degrees, and others as much as +2/-5 degrees. Not consistent!
I may end up getting an electronic thermostat afer all.
That is because your room probe and the controller is your t-tstat with a Harman stove.
You can wire a t-stat in series with your room probe, there are posts on how to do this: http://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/...ur-manual-doesnt-tell-you.91030/#post-1192510
Ended up getting a DMH110 (Lux)
It has the swing variable (#1 through #9)
Not programmable by day/hour... that's OK. My schedule is totally random!
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