1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Hearthstone Soapstone and Cast-Iron stoves( Wood, Gas or Pellet Stoves and Inserts)
    Caluwe - Passion for Fire and Water ( Pellet and Wood Hydronic and Space Heating)

Proper operation of an air scoop

Post in 'The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces' started by Donl, Feb 23, 2013.

  1. Donl

    Donl Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2007
    Messages:
    306
    Loc:
    Ontario
    I've had an air scoop connected to the boiler for many years now. Not sure I have been using it correctly though.

    I have always kept the bleed cap tightened and loosen it from time to time to remove any built up air. Is that correct?

    Or should it be left partly open all the time? Or something else?

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!





  2. Bob Rohr

    Bob Rohr Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2008
    Messages:
    744
    Loc:
    SW Missouri

    The cap should be left loose so the vent can be an "automatic" device. The cap is there to shut it off if it develops a leak from dirt under the seat, etc. or to air test a system.

    Some vent brands can be disassembled and cleaned if they do drip, others need to be replaced. A good option is to add a small service check valve under the vent. This allows them to be removed and serviced or replaced without lowering the system pressure.

    Always locate the scoop and vent so if or when they leak they do not damage equipment below them :)

    You can also buy an adapter for some brands to add a small copper tube to the cap to discharge to the floor.

    Attached Files:

  3. ewdudley

    ewdudley Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2009
    Messages:
    1,650
    Loc:
    Cayuga County NY
    The cap should be loose whenever there is any significant amount of air yet to be removed, then is should be tightened. Periodically in can be loosened to check for air. If a significant amount of air accumulates continuously then there is a problem that needs to be discovered and remedied. If you leave the cap open the vent will fail and make a mess while providing no benefit.
  4. Mushroom Man

    Mushroom Man Member

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2008
    Messages:
    183
    Loc:
    Eastern Ontario
    Your post on this subject Don is timely. Mine developed a leak last week. I don't want to address the leak during heating season. When the weather permits, I plan on removing it to repair/replace (as needed). It is a Honeywell Braukmann EA122A Automatic Air Vent. If yours is the same brand, I do have the manual (all 4 pages) and would be happy to read it to you if that would help, or I can scan it and send to you via email.
  5. Donl

    Donl Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2007
    Messages:
    306
    Loc:
    Ontario
    Hi Tim,

    Thanks for the offer. I have a Taco Vortech scoop. It's working fine though.

    Since we last talked I have switched over to cast iron radiators. They are great and a big improvement from the forced air heat. Highly recommended!
  6. Mushroom Man

    Mushroom Man Member

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2008
    Messages:
    183
    Loc:
    Eastern Ontario
    I am still dreaming of Cast iron rads. They are great and I will be moving that way. I hate hearing the furnace fan.

    What temperatures are effective for CI rads? I'd ideally like to run the tank down to 120 degrees. I cannot get the unpressurized storage over 170* because the EPDM liner is not rated for above that temperature.
  7. BoilerMan

    BoilerMan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2012
    Messages:
    1,552
    Loc:
    Northern Maine
    I wish everyone could see the light like you! Low temp is the way to go.

    TS
  8. Donl

    Donl Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2007
    Messages:
    306
    Loc:
    Ontario
    I run the temp down to about 117 degrees. With the forced air 140 was as far down I could get useful heat. Before I installed the cast iron rads I did a heat load calculation for each area and oversized the rads so the would work down to the lower temp. I'm happy, but more importantly so is the wife.
  9. Fred61

    Fred61 Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2008
    Messages:
    1,715
    Loc:
    Southeastern Vt.
    The ones in my present system appear to be sealed closed. I have repaired them in the past though. They're really pretty simple. they have a float like a carburator that drops when there is air present which opens a needle valve and allows the air to escape out the top with that space displaced with water.

    One that failed on me actually got gummed up by a ball of soldering paste that solidified in the float chamber.
  10. taxidermist

    taxidermist Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2008
    Messages:
    1,031
    Loc:
    Fowlerville MI
    My vortec started to leak this season. I tightened the cap and i will fix it in the spring.

    Rob
  11. dogwood

    dogwood Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2009
    Messages:
    634
    Loc:
    Western VA

Share This Page