Purchasing a wood furnace..cant find ANYTHING about it online

[webbie]

The unvented is always a big concern -- use only while attended and as little as possible Definitely install a few CO detectors in the house to cover all the combustion you will have going on.

The chimney should work.....main thing with furnaces is not to fire them up until it gets nice and cold...then you won't be smoldering.

If and when you install ducts for the wood furnace, note that these ducts should not touch wood or combustibles as wood furnaces can get them a lot hotter than others....your manual should have specs on that. If there is none, use 6" from the top of the plenum on the furnace and 2" from the ducts that come out from there - you can probably then go to regular regular boots (which touch combustibles) as long as you are 12 feet or more away from plenum - note that these are guesses based on manuals I have seen. If your manual does not address, download some similar manuals for other wood furnaces and specs should be similar as to duct clearances.

 

[begreen]

That helps. I'm with Craig on this one. If you go for the furnace, you will need to add some ducting to make it deliver the heat efficiently to upstairs. Then it might work ok, though this furnace sounds like overkill for 1000 sq ft. How many BTUs is it rated for in the manual? It may work, but if you are constantly throttling it down there may be other issues like creosote accumulation. From the description it sounds like there is not a possibility of a trunk duct feeding the garage. Even if it does sort of work, where will the parts come to make it really work well? Where do you get parts for it in the future?

Can a wood stove be added to the living room in the original house? Heating the place 24/7 is a lot of work with wood, but if you are home then it is nice warmth. I agree with not using the propane heaters. I am not a fan of unvented propane heaters. Be sure you have CO detectors if you use these things. Or have you considered a pellet stove?

 

[danielj618]

yes..I was going to add the smaller stove to the existing living room..then the cost..I can add a duct leading to the garage..I can run a chase straight up into the attic area..the attic of the garage area and main house connect..and there is an opening between the two..I can also possibly sneak one just at floor level into the garage area but it would have to run along the back wall..(poured cement floor)..the costs are similar but the furnace is slightly cheaper..I also do have the cellar door which can be left open at the top of the cellar stairs..that is in the kitchen..center of the house

I suppose one can never tell until you use it..it seemed as if by description the fire would literally almost go out inbetween it cycling..and then rekindle..coals would remain up to six hours and still re-ignite..the major benefit was being able to load it and go to work and have the house stay warm..another factor is I have an unheated cellar..and water pipes..so far so good but the winters have been mild since I bought the house..I was thinking with that much heat..some of it would have to come upstairs..and some could be vented too

it's a crap shoot and some unknown..

I do have a few CO detectors and the propane units are brand new..I tend to be lucky and I got them for 75 bucks apiece in the boxes..279.00 heaters regularly..end of season..they supposedly have failsafe oxygen depletion sensors..and like I said..the windows are not great and I get some fresh air through and leave one open a crack..so far no problems at all and they are mostly to keep the house warm when we are not home

love the idea of a pellet stove..i have a leftover thru the wall thimble from one that was removed..I hate to sound like a whiner but we dont have money...but we have kids..lots

there is a christmas song about mary and joseph and the inn..a line says.."a barn is a mansion if it's walls shelter love" so in that sense I am a rich man



gonna sleep on it

later !!

 

[Mark]

Just to let you know I have the same wood furnance in my home. She's an old one by looks of the manuel - 1967 I'm guessing. I bought this farm house last May and the previous owner lived here for years and this was his primary heat. The only thing I had to do for the house inspection was to weld a plate over the heat exchanger as there were some cracks. I'm needing to have it wet certified the first week of the new year so I'll keep you posted. If the furnance you are looking at is new I don't think you have anything to worry.

Mark

 

[stoveguy2esw]

I do have a few CO detectors and the propane units are brand new..I tend to be lucky and I got them for 75 bucks apiece in the boxes..279.00 heaters regularly..end of season..they supposedly have failsafe oxygen depletion sensors..and like I said..the windows are not great and I get some fresh air through and leave one open a crack..so far no problems at all and they are mostly to keep the house warm when we are not home

for the record im not meaning that co detectors are not needed , i get on my soapbox about them constantly in my job, but the "ods shutoff system " in vent free appliances are about as foolproof as it gets as long as they are not monkeyed with. vent free gas is safe provided that the parameters of confined space are met. www.ventfree.org/AnswersToComments.htm this is a link for a pretty concise q & a about these products. another good source of information about vent free gas is"gama" who you can look up at www.iccsafe.org even though im extoling the safety of these units i wholeheartedly agree wil our experts in here that co detectors should be used (as well as smoke detectors) when any flame producing device is present , i dont care who made it or what it burns , if it makes a fire, get these devices