Does anyone where I can access a manual on how to clean stove like a tech. would. The 25 page book that came with the new stove doesn't go into much detail.
I would really appreciate any advice!
I would really appreciate any advice!
QUAD CB 1200 cleaning
- Thread starter Beaubythestove
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I typed this once and somehow erased it the 1st time. So this is a much quicker version. (still pretty long)
There isnt a tech manual for cleaning. At least none that I know of. If you are referring to the "End of Year" cleaning. It is pretty detailed. All stoves have some variation to the cleaning process. You will need at least the Combustion blower gasket before you start along with a bottle of Pam cooking spray oil. And a desiccant of some sort. Be it Damp-Rid, or Silica Gel pouches..
Do you use the "leaf-blower trick" to aid in the cleaning of the stove? If not I would suggest spending the $40. It is cheaper than a vacuum that you would buy. I run my Leaf-blower for almost the entire routine.. Because I do this I remove the hose from the vacuum switch, located on back left hand side of stove. When you remove hose from vacuum switch, blow through the tube, ejecting any fines accumulation in the other end.
Start with Unplugging the stove, Then follow through with your normal cleaning routine of the glass, firebox, fire-pot, empty ash pan, clean thermocouple cover, and remove top 2 baffles and get the heat exchange tubes. I have several small and long brushes for cleaning in-between and especially ABOVE the heat exchange tubes. The 2 pull rods that are on the stove do absolutely nothing for the cleaning of these tubes. Getting all of the ash out of that area is very important. Above the tubes can be a PITA, but with some ingenuity and an assortment of brushes, you can figure it out. This knocks all the ash down into the rear ash clean-out. open bottom right hand door on stove. Remove the square clean-out plate (held in by 4 screws) If you have a leaf-blower going, you will only need a paintbrush or a wire brush to loosen the ash and have it sucked out. Otherwise use a shop-vac and vacuum this are very good. Paying attention to where the heat exchange tubes can be seen. (You will need a flashlight to see in there) Take a small brush and try to clean in-between the tubes from this clean-out area. Its a little hard to see them, and even harder to get brushes in there. I found that a "Turkey Baster" Bottle Brush works great for this application. Can be bent and is small for the tight area. Makes sure all ash is of the walls, floor, and the step-top area above Comb blower. Before putting the cover back on, spray Pam cooking oil in this clean-out area. Be sure to get everything coated. Once I'm done with all of that..
I pull the stove away from wall. For 2 reasons 1. I have a corner install and 2. When you have room to work, its always easier.
Pull both blowers out. The Combustion blower is 6 small screws (circle pattern) and convection blower is 2 screws. Take a vacuum and some small brushes, Q-Tips, small wire brush, etc. Cleaning the fly ash off of the combustion blower and I drop a drop of lube (SAE 20) or 2 on the shaft by the bearings (sealed bearings, may not do much, but its been working for years now). Clean and lube the blowers up. Spray the combustion blower (blades only) with Pam also. Now the Convection blower is off, take a long brush and run it down the 8 heat tubes (where your air actually comes from), 7 small screws and the front grill comes off. Vacuum the inside of tubes and brush them clean.. Replace both of the blowers, Gasket needed for combustion blower..
Clean the hopper out. Vacuum all fines out. Make sure to get all pellets out of the auger. Suck from the top of the pellet chute in stove and bottom of auger in hopper. Wipe with furniture polish and add desiccant.
Clean the flue pipe, depending on your set-up you may have needed to do this at the beginning or end. Whichever suites you best. So long as ALL the vent is cleaned. Must use a brush also. I clean from both ends and spray a little Pam in them also. Now your blowers are clean, the flue, ash clean-out, heat exchange tubes, fire-pot and holes within, firebox, hopper, glass, thermocouple cover, ignitor area,and baffles. Spray Pam on every square inch on the inside of Firebox, Fire-pot, and Ash pan areas. Any area's exposed to flames or high heat within the stove should be sprayed and protected over the summer. Replace all doors and back panel.
Once the stove is back in its place, reseal the flue on the stove with High temp RTV, place a desiccant in the ash pan area (a Must) and another in the hopper (optional). Plug your Flue and OAK (if you have one) on the outside of your house with an old rag or T-shirt. You don't want Humid air being able to get into your house. Along with other critters such as Wasps, Mice, or Bee's. I leave the stove un-plugged all year.Take the batteries out of my wireless remote and receiver. Don't want them to corrode over summer.
Big end of year cleaning is a little more detailed. I know a guy that didn't do it last year, and he had auger problems on his 1st start-up of this season. Also didn't use any Pam or Rust inhibitor. Inside of his stove looked terrible compared to mine. Good luck and I'm sure I missed something. Had to type this twice.. UGH..... Good luck and take pics if your worried. Probably gonna remember more when I submit this.
There isnt a tech manual for cleaning. At least none that I know of. If you are referring to the "End of Year" cleaning. It is pretty detailed. All stoves have some variation to the cleaning process. You will need at least the Combustion blower gasket before you start along with a bottle of Pam cooking spray oil. And a desiccant of some sort. Be it Damp-Rid, or Silica Gel pouches..
Do you use the "leaf-blower trick" to aid in the cleaning of the stove? If not I would suggest spending the $40. It is cheaper than a vacuum that you would buy. I run my Leaf-blower for almost the entire routine.. Because I do this I remove the hose from the vacuum switch, located on back left hand side of stove. When you remove hose from vacuum switch, blow through the tube, ejecting any fines accumulation in the other end.
Start with Unplugging the stove, Then follow through with your normal cleaning routine of the glass, firebox, fire-pot, empty ash pan, clean thermocouple cover, and remove top 2 baffles and get the heat exchange tubes. I have several small and long brushes for cleaning in-between and especially ABOVE the heat exchange tubes. The 2 pull rods that are on the stove do absolutely nothing for the cleaning of these tubes. Getting all of the ash out of that area is very important. Above the tubes can be a PITA, but with some ingenuity and an assortment of brushes, you can figure it out. This knocks all the ash down into the rear ash clean-out. open bottom right hand door on stove. Remove the square clean-out plate (held in by 4 screws) If you have a leaf-blower going, you will only need a paintbrush or a wire brush to loosen the ash and have it sucked out. Otherwise use a shop-vac and vacuum this are very good. Paying attention to where the heat exchange tubes can be seen. (You will need a flashlight to see in there) Take a small brush and try to clean in-between the tubes from this clean-out area. Its a little hard to see them, and even harder to get brushes in there. I found that a "Turkey Baster" Bottle Brush works great for this application. Can be bent and is small for the tight area. Makes sure all ash is of the walls, floor, and the step-top area above Comb blower. Before putting the cover back on, spray Pam cooking oil in this clean-out area. Be sure to get everything coated. Once I'm done with all of that..
I pull the stove away from wall. For 2 reasons 1. I have a corner install and 2. When you have room to work, its always easier.
Pull both blowers out. The Combustion blower is 6 small screws (circle pattern) and convection blower is 2 screws. Take a vacuum and some small brushes, Q-Tips, small wire brush, etc. Cleaning the fly ash off of the combustion blower and I drop a drop of lube (SAE 20) or 2 on the shaft by the bearings (sealed bearings, may not do much, but its been working for years now). Clean and lube the blowers up. Spray the combustion blower (blades only) with Pam also. Now the Convection blower is off, take a long brush and run it down the 8 heat tubes (where your air actually comes from), 7 small screws and the front grill comes off. Vacuum the inside of tubes and brush them clean.. Replace both of the blowers, Gasket needed for combustion blower..
Clean the hopper out. Vacuum all fines out. Make sure to get all pellets out of the auger. Suck from the top of the pellet chute in stove and bottom of auger in hopper. Wipe with furniture polish and add desiccant.
Clean the flue pipe, depending on your set-up you may have needed to do this at the beginning or end. Whichever suites you best. So long as ALL the vent is cleaned. Must use a brush also. I clean from both ends and spray a little Pam in them also. Now your blowers are clean, the flue, ash clean-out, heat exchange tubes, fire-pot and holes within, firebox, hopper, glass, thermocouple cover, ignitor area,and baffles. Spray Pam on every square inch on the inside of Firebox, Fire-pot, and Ash pan areas. Any area's exposed to flames or high heat within the stove should be sprayed and protected over the summer. Replace all doors and back panel.
Once the stove is back in its place, reseal the flue on the stove with High temp RTV, place a desiccant in the ash pan area (a Must) and another in the hopper (optional). Plug your Flue and OAK (if you have one) on the outside of your house with an old rag or T-shirt. You don't want Humid air being able to get into your house. Along with other critters such as Wasps, Mice, or Bee's. I leave the stove un-plugged all year.Take the batteries out of my wireless remote and receiver. Don't want them to corrode over summer.
Big end of year cleaning is a little more detailed. I know a guy that didn't do it last year, and he had auger problems on his 1st start-up of this season. Also didn't use any Pam or Rust inhibitor. Inside of his stove looked terrible compared to mine. Good luck and I'm sure I missed something. Had to type this twice.. UGH..... Good luck and take pics if your worried. Probably gonna remember more when I submit this.
slls
Minister of Fire
Thanks for a detailed post! I couldn't figure what PITA meant until I stared the cleaning, now I do!
Thanks again!
Until I find oil in my backyard, it's pellets for me.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
Until I find oil in my backyard, it's pellets for me.
Thanks again!
Beaubythestove said:
I hope you get it all done. . When you plug your flue and OAK (if you have one), make sure to put a note in the hopper or the firepot stating that the intake/exhaust is plugged and that you have moisture absorbent (desiccant) in the ash pan and hopper area.
And as for the no Oil thing, most here will agree with you. Oil Man hates me. Tank only needs filled once every 3 years. That's only because we cook with LP. Cheers
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