I have a classic bay quadrafire 1200. Worked fine until we cleaned it last week. Now when it’s cold it will start only when we push the reset button two to three times. When it is warmed up it will start by itself. Once you get it started it draws pellets for its initial 1min.35 seconds and continues to run. It will then either shut down in ten min. or it will run its full cycle and shut down. At shut down the red call light never turns off. We bought it used three seasons ago and have replaced the burn pot, all three snap disks, igniter, both fans and thermocouple. Thermocouple cover tests good. Vacuum hose is clean and open. Flue is clean. The last part we replaced was the control box which we replaced after we cleaned the stove. Thermostat system tests continuity at pin 7&9;with new control box removed stove unplugged, jumper in place and thermostat on. New box has a ground wire is it possible we have a problem here?
QuadraFire 1200 call light on
- Thread starter imsocold
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
jtp10181
Minister of Fire
Have you tried bypassing the vac switch as a test to see if that helps?
How would the stove shut down if the red call for heat light never turns off? Or is this when it shuts down by itself when you don't want it to?
How would the stove shut down if the red call for heat light never turns off? Or is this when it shuts down by itself when you don't want it to?
I will try to bypass the vacuum switch.
To answer about the call light, the call light never goes off once the thermostat is turned on. The stove will shut off on it's own, usually at the end of the 10 minute start cycle, as it hits green (200F), but doesn't hit the red (600F) light. Sometimes it will continue on for maybe 20-25 minutes and shut down, with the call light still on. The only way to shut the call light off is to move the thermostat lever all the way to the bottom.
Sometimes the red (600F) light will come on & sometimes it won't. IE it won't get up to full 600F temp, usually then is when it seems to go out at the 10 minute mark, if it hasn't reached the 600F point triggering the red light.
The MV rating coming off TC Block on the Junc. box measures correctly for both lights, as follows:
Red light will come on at 12.1mv.
Green light @ 2.5mv.
I have tracked it /w a Fluke DMM and hit about 33.5mv on high full burn. It seems to climb very slowly, maybe .01mv every few sec. Very slow!
Thermocouple was replaced last September.
Thermostat & wire has just been repl. Call cycle is set to lowest point on Thermostat @ '.1'.
Stove is very clean, get's done every year in a total dis-assy. job.
To answer about the call light, the call light never goes off once the thermostat is turned on. The stove will shut off on it's own, usually at the end of the 10 minute start cycle, as it hits green (200F), but doesn't hit the red (600F) light. Sometimes it will continue on for maybe 20-25 minutes and shut down, with the call light still on. The only way to shut the call light off is to move the thermostat lever all the way to the bottom.
Sometimes the red (600F) light will come on & sometimes it won't. IE it won't get up to full 600F temp, usually then is when it seems to go out at the 10 minute mark, if it hasn't reached the 600F point triggering the red light.
The MV rating coming off TC Block on the Junc. box measures correctly for both lights, as follows:
Red light will come on at 12.1mv.
Green light @ 2.5mv.
I have tracked it /w a Fluke DMM and hit about 33.5mv on high full burn. It seems to climb very slowly, maybe .01mv every few sec. Very slow!
Thermocouple was replaced last September.
Thermostat & wire has just been repl. Call cycle is set to lowest point on Thermostat @ '.1'.
Stove is very clean, get's done every year in a total dis-assy. job.
jtp10181
Minister of Fire
So when it goes out the Thermocouple is not putting out enough to turn the red light on? You said you have read it going up to 39mv but also said the red light comes on at 12.1mv so I am confused.
Have you checked the thermocouple placement and also the cover placement. The cover should be tight against the end of the thermocouple.
If you are not getting enough mv from the thermocouple to turn the red light on then there is something wrong with the placement of it or the thermocouple itself.
Have you checked the thermocouple placement and also the cover placement. The cover should be tight against the end of the thermocouple.
If you are not getting enough mv from the thermocouple to turn the red light on then there is something wrong with the placement of it or the thermocouple itself.
jtp10181
Minister of Fire
Please read my post above, I doubt it has anything to do with the vac switch system after the extra info you gave.
jtp10181 said:
No worries, it is confusing. ;-)
Basically when the fire has managed to get up to a high enough heat output, it has read the correct amount of Volt. output in MV.
Most every time I can remember it's gotten that hot, since the problem, has been as a result of multiple resets to get the fire started.
Then it's burned nice & raging hot, and the voltage tracks correctly, and the red light clicks on at the appropriate reading.
Then if it continues to burn, it'll run up to 'about' 32.5mv (Tech Manual says this correct on high heat output) and then it'll die down and shut off.
I don't ever recall it getting up to a red light on it's own, without forcing pellets /w reset during burn. Then it'd drop pellets once the green light came on & the flame was high enough. Then we'd stop forcing pellets with the reset. Maybe 2-3x no more.
jtp10181 said:
Yes, it's all the way at the end, and the TC still looks as new as the day we bought it, save for some darkening of the metal braided insulation.
I noticed the TC Ceramic Cover was gettting cherry red on forced starts, when the flames were running 6-8" or so above the pot, and the stove was running nice & hot. At that point we had adjusted the TC+Cover so that it was all the way into the pot, and the back edge of the Ceramic TC cover was just about flush with the back of the TC Bracket on the pot. IE. it couldn't go in any more without slipping out of the back end of the bracket.
Little Screw:*******************
This is the bracket:********||_____||
This is the TC Cover: ((((((((((((((((((((((------------------------
(Tip to back end, represented by the brackets. Then the dashed line is the TC wire.
I had put it in that far. Any farther and it'd be past the 1st slot in the bracket. Tip was all the way in.
I moved it back, still cherry red. So I replaced it, it looked nice & clean, but did it anyway. At least I'll have a spare. ;-)
See the red light will turn on, if the stove will start when it's cold, which it has to be forced, as it won't start cold. And once it starts, if it runs long enough, and drops pellets to keep the fire going to get it hot enough to trip the red (600F) light, then it'll shutdown anyway. The call light will still be on.
Last night I also put a new gasket around the ash pan tray below. Nice & squishy now. =)
jtp10181
Minister of Fire
Sounds like it is running out of fuel then going out. Does the auger stop totally or is it just not feeding enough in the keep the fire going? Have you checked the feed rater slider in the hopper? Try it with it wide open to see what happens. Also your auger motor could possibly be slipping or broken. I have yet to experience a broken auger so I'm not sure exactly what symptoms you might get.
I had a customer recently who said if the auger ran into resistance it would start runnig backwards and then jam. He bought the new parts himself and was going to work on it this weekend. He has a Mt Vernon, which has the exact same auger motor os your stove.
I had a customer recently who said if the auger ran into resistance it would start runnig backwards and then jam. He bought the new parts himself and was going to work on it this weekend. He has a Mt Vernon, which has the exact same auger motor os your stove.
I will try the feed rate all the way open and see if this helps. The auger seems to run ok. It feeds its initial feed drop of 1min and 35 sec then it will kick in and drop pellets as long as the stove keeps running. The red call light never turns off. What is the problem with the cold start? When the stove is completely cold the stove won't start without the reset being pushed although it does drop it's initial 1min and 35 sec feed drop. When the stove is warm it will start. The ten minute run and shutdown is almost a given except once last night when it ran full cycle. Can we measure amperage to the Igniter? Its new doesn't seem to glow like I think it should.
jtp10181
Minister of Fire
So on a cold start its not igniting at all? You never said that. Probably need to clean out the slot in the burn pot where the air from the igniter goes into the pot. You can reach in there with a small scraper or you can also remove the igniter and get at it from underneath.
You have throw some many different scenarios at me I don't really even know what the stove is doing exactly.
You might just need to find a local pro to come fix it for you.
You have throw some many different scenarios at me I don't really even know what the stove is doing exactly.
You might just need to find a local pro to come fix it for you.
See my 1st. post that started the thread!!jtp10181 said:
imsocold said:
jtp10181 said:
It's as clean as can be, short of filing on it or taking steel wool to it. Nice open 'coin slot'.
Actual I have been very clear, it 's just that it's a difficult problem. I know that very well & need no convincing. We aren't pellet stove experts, but not to much longer required on that. ;-)jtp10181 said:
Both my father & I are working on this thing. He's a retired GM certified mechanic "Grease Monkey" / Dabbled in engineering & mathematics. I'm an IT Professional & Computer Engineer. There's not much any of us can't solve unless it comes down to welding or entire solder reworking, which we are only limited in that by lack of the tools of the trade at our disposal.
All the local pellet stove people are completely stumped by the problem & would be a waste of our money & their time for them to come in & try all the things we have already tried.
This stove has basically been rebuilt from the ground up, as the prior owner beat the heck out of it & never cleaned it. Rotting the fire pot out, which we machined a new on using the old one as a template. Now it runs better than it ever did, uses far fewer pellets and more efficient. It runs as well as the new ones, even better in some ways. We have completely rebuilt thje convection motor, sourcing new bearings for it's shaft in the process, requiring a complete tear down of the whole motor, pulling the center shaft bearings using a bearing puller, removing the center armature & both center shaft bearings, installing new bearings, cleaning the armature & re-assy. Works like a beauty & saved us several $100.
I would have rebuilt the old fried computer, but didn't have time, it was to cold.
I would recommend re-reading my above posts for clarification on the issues & any adl. questions or clarification you may have, feel free to ask.
jtp10181
Minister of Fire
Ok... cold start, fuel in the pot, doesn't ignite. Possible problems are:
1) faulty igniter
2) igniter not getting power (blown fuse or bad board)
3) blockage in the burn pot
4) restricted air-flow path (intake or exhaust)
5) Wet / bad fuel?
That's about it, it has to be one of those things. You have pretty much ruled it all out so there has to be something that's been missed.
Just thought of something... When you replaced the control board did you set the number on dial to the correct setting?
1) faulty igniter
2) igniter not getting power (blown fuse or bad board)
3) blockage in the burn pot
4) restricted air-flow path (intake or exhaust)
5) Wet / bad fuel?
That's about it, it has to be one of those things. You have pretty much ruled it all out so there has to be something that's been missed.
Just thought of something... When you replaced the control board did you set the number on dial to the correct setting?
jtp10181 said:
The little gray dial
That would be the #1 setting?
(sorry to butt in....just wondering)
Ok, Igniter stands to reason.
It's definitely running, runs for about 5min & 30sec.
Is it the right amperage, do you know what amperage it's supposed to be coming from the wires from the control box? I'd like to test that at this point.
The igniter turns on, gets hot, even blackens the pellets next to the slit.
However the firebox plate doesn't seem to get as hot as it did /w the old igniter, you know when you place your hand on the outside of the plate in front of the igniter. Inside, the coil itself get's so hot you can't touch it, and stays hot long after it goes out.
We did replace the old igniter due to some dead spots starting to appear in the old igniter, however the end of the new igniter doesn't get as red as the rest of it does.
Those 2 things are the only things I can think of with the igniter system. Well that and testing the Amperage rating.
Hence I want to test out the amperage coming into it.
I could test it and tell you what it is, but we'll still need to know what the target, or acceptable range is.
I'm not completely sure it's getting hot enough like it should.
I really appreciate your persistence in this matter & working with us on this. I know these things can be frustrating, but it's all for the love of the thrill of solving it. ;-) Otherwise we wouldn't be doing it, right?
Regarding the other things you listed.
1. See above.
2a. Fuse is good, we already went down that road. Don't ask, I'd rather not say. Let's just say someone got a little frisky with the DMM & shorted some wires. Wasn't me!
In fact we discovered the prev. owner had installed a 250V 7A fuse, instead of the 120/125v. So we had to get the right ones, turns out it's just Christmas Light Fuses for the C7/9 types. LOL!
2b. Control board should be OK, it's brand new. we did set the proper setting on the dial to #1 & verified the flashes at startup.
We also did the Diag. test. on Setting zero where you jump the vacuum switch & snap disk #1, then fire up the stove /w the box set to #0. It passes each test.
3. Burn pot is clean, all holes are open, bottom plate is snug closed.
4. Regarding the intake, it's not obstructed, it's bottom vented & sits on a tile pad trimmed with beautiful juniper wood. All custom done by, guess who?
We take the stove off it's pad every year, cart it out the front door & into the garage & perform a full cleaning w/ the air compressor, brushes, etc. & full disassembly of the unit. Repairing any worn gaskets, seals, etc.. All that good stuff. The pad then gets washed down & the stove cosmetically touched up if needed.
We are super meticulous!
Exhaust is also good.
5. Fuel is dry, same type we have been using for years. We even run it through a home-made sifter chute. =)
Thx. again.
It's definitely running, runs for about 5min & 30sec.
Is it the right amperage, do you know what amperage it's supposed to be coming from the wires from the control box? I'd like to test that at this point.
The igniter turns on, gets hot, even blackens the pellets next to the slit.
However the firebox plate doesn't seem to get as hot as it did /w the old igniter, you know when you place your hand on the outside of the plate in front of the igniter. Inside, the coil itself get's so hot you can't touch it, and stays hot long after it goes out.
We did replace the old igniter due to some dead spots starting to appear in the old igniter, however the end of the new igniter doesn't get as red as the rest of it does.
Those 2 things are the only things I can think of with the igniter system. Well that and testing the Amperage rating.
Hence I want to test out the amperage coming into it.
I could test it and tell you what it is, but we'll still need to know what the target, or acceptable range is.
I'm not completely sure it's getting hot enough like it should.
I really appreciate your persistence in this matter & working with us on this. I know these things can be frustrating, but it's all for the love of the thrill of solving it. ;-) Otherwise we wouldn't be doing it, right?
Regarding the other things you listed.
1. See above.
2a. Fuse is good, we already went down that road. Don't ask, I'd rather not say. Let's just say someone got a little frisky with the DMM & shorted some wires. Wasn't me!
In fact we discovered the prev. owner had installed a 250V 7A fuse, instead of the 120/125v. So we had to get the right ones, turns out it's just Christmas Light Fuses for the C7/9 types. LOL!
2b. Control board should be OK, it's brand new. we did set the proper setting on the dial to #1 & verified the flashes at startup.
We also did the Diag. test. on Setting zero where you jump the vacuum switch & snap disk #1, then fire up the stove /w the box set to #0. It passes each test.
3. Burn pot is clean, all holes are open, bottom plate is snug closed.
4. Regarding the intake, it's not obstructed, it's bottom vented & sits on a tile pad trimmed with beautiful juniper wood. All custom done by, guess who?
We take the stove off it's pad every year, cart it out the front door & into the garage & perform a full cleaning w/ the air compressor, brushes, etc. & full disassembly of the unit. Repairing any worn gaskets, seals, etc.. All that good stuff. The pad then gets washed down & the stove cosmetically touched up if needed.
We are super meticulous!
Exhaust is also good.
5. Fuel is dry, same type we have been using for years. We even run it through a home-made sifter chute. =)
Thx. again.
Shooter said:The little gray dial
That would be the #1 setting?
(sorry to butt in....just wondering)
No problem, feel free to chime in.
Yes, it's set to #1. See above.
jtp10181
Minister of Fire
I have a CB1200 repair manual at work. It has quite a bit about the igniter. I will look at teat his week if I think of it.
No solution - just another problem to solve, on our Quadrafire CB 1200-I insert (purchased in 2001). The fire just started going out suddenly (even when feeding) on snap disc #2. We replaced snap disc #2, as we thought it was malfunctioning - but that wasn't it. We've thoroughly cleaned and checked everything (t-stat is fine, combustion fan and exhaust seems to be fine - but we'll check the exhaust out the chimney). Disc #2 recloses when it cools down, and the stove works fine again, even for long periods of time (1 hour or several hours). The convection fan motor seems to be running fine (though it seemed loose and could be moved up and down easily - but that made no difference when the stove was running). Any ideas?
slls
Minister of Fire
Are the vanes on the convection fan clean, they will get a build up and not move air very efficiently.
John316 said:
There are a bunch of things to check. Please tell what you found on each of the points listed below:
1) First, the convection motor. What do you mean by saying it is loose. Does this refer to the shaft moving back and forth horizontally, or the whole housing assembly moves up and down vertically? This is a side issue and shouldn't really be connected with your problem, but it may be a problem unto itself.
2) Look at the door seal and see if there is any black blow-by where it should be in contact with the firebox rim.
3) Do you have to apply a bit of pressure on the door latches to lock it shut or do they practically close themselves.
4) When closing the door, there is an alignment pin on the box between the two latches for the door. Does the alignment keyway on the door have to slide up the pin, or does it hit it dead on. If it doesn't hit on center, what is the measurement from the contact point to the notch slot.
There is more, but we will start there.
First, THANK YOU both for responding!
slls - yes, the vanes are clean
imsocold:
1) the whole convection motor housing assembly moves up and down vertically, about 1/4" - it doesn't feel right, but we haven't yet pulled out the insert to look at this
2) no - no black blow-by around the door seal
3) have to apply pressure to lock the door shut - but we'll try putting a little more pressure on the latches
4) have to lift up the door about 1/4" to align the pin with the notch slot to close the door
Tonight we also realized that when the fan is on "high" the stove doesn't shut down; shuts down quickest on "low"; also shuts down on "medium". The stove is running hotter than usual - chimney air seems hotter (though the flow is good), and the hopper is definitely hotter than usual.
One other thing which is probably irrelevant (since it's not new) - the air flow into the room is noticeably hotter from the stove's right side than the left, though quite adequate from both sides.
What next? Thanks again!
slls - yes, the vanes are clean
imsocold:
1) the whole convection motor housing assembly moves up and down vertically, about 1/4" - it doesn't feel right, but we haven't yet pulled out the insert to look at this
2) no - no black blow-by around the door seal
3) have to apply pressure to lock the door shut - but we'll try putting a little more pressure on the latches
4) have to lift up the door about 1/4" to align the pin with the notch slot to close the door
Tonight we also realized that when the fan is on "high" the stove doesn't shut down; shuts down quickest on "low"; also shuts down on "medium". The stove is running hotter than usual - chimney air seems hotter (though the flow is good), and the hopper is definitely hotter than usual.
One other thing which is probably irrelevant (since it's not new) - the air flow into the room is noticeably hotter from the stove's right side than the left, though quite adequate from both sides.
What next? Thanks again!
slls
Minister of Fire
Sorry I can't answer as regular as I would like.
You shouldn't need to tighten the door latches.
You were asked about the exhaust fan blades and you said they were clean.
1) Have you pulled the access cover off the other side and vacuumed out the ash?
2) Have you also run a brush through the vent pipe to make sure it is clear?
4) Have you removed the fire plates and cleaned the heat exchanger tubes and removed the ash from behind the plates?
4) How do you clean out the burn pot?
5) Does the firepot access panel and ash door fit snuggly. (Sometimes the ash door doesn't fit right anymore and the gasket misses contact in some areas.
6) Describe the shape of burn flames, where it is high and low across the width of the pot and how high.
7) The Thermocoupler wire twist shouldn't have a severed weld, shoved all the way to the front end of the cover and the cover extending into the pot an inch (measured from the vertical plane of the firepot wall).
Let me know.
You shouldn't need to tighten the door latches.
You were asked about the exhaust fan blades and you said they were clean.
1) Have you pulled the access cover off the other side and vacuumed out the ash?
2) Have you also run a brush through the vent pipe to make sure it is clear?
4) Have you removed the fire plates and cleaned the heat exchanger tubes and removed the ash from behind the plates?
4) How do you clean out the burn pot?
5) Does the firepot access panel and ash door fit snuggly. (Sometimes the ash door doesn't fit right anymore and the gasket misses contact in some areas.
6) Describe the shape of burn flames, where it is high and low across the width of the pot and how high.
7) The Thermocoupler wire twist shouldn't have a severed weld, shoved all the way to the front end of the cover and the cover extending into the pot an inch (measured from the vertical plane of the firepot wall).
Let me know.
No time to check everything tonight. We called Quadrafire tech support, but we're confused about their response. They said it could be that the combustion fan is turning too slowly - it should be 160 cfm; however, the Quadrafire replacement fans we looked at are rated at 80 cfm - ???
imsocold, in Q 1), do you mean the panels below the baffles, approx. 3" x 4"? We cleaned out both of those.
3) yes, heat exchanger tubes and plates cleaned
4) burn pot is clean - pulled cleaning rod, scraped out the firepot with a putty knife, and ran a screw through the holes to make sure they're clean
5) Not sure I understand - the gasket on the glass door looks okay; the ash door fits snug, but there's no gasket
6) flame fluctuates from low to high, sometimes at the rim to 6" above the rim; generally a little higher on the left side (looking at the stove); shape - thick, yellow, strong flames
We'll check the thermocoupler (7) and clean the vent (2 and slls response) asap.
This may be irrelevant, but we noticed a lot more ash production, and more clinkers in the ash pot - but we don't know if the quality of Golden Fire pellets has gone down or if it's a result of a stove problem.
slls and imsocold - THANK YOU for your time and patience!
imsocold, in Q 1), do you mean the panels below the baffles, approx. 3" x 4"? We cleaned out both of those.
3) yes, heat exchanger tubes and plates cleaned
4) burn pot is clean - pulled cleaning rod, scraped out the firepot with a putty knife, and ran a screw through the holes to make sure they're clean
5) Not sure I understand - the gasket on the glass door looks okay; the ash door fits snug, but there's no gasket
6) flame fluctuates from low to high, sometimes at the rim to 6" above the rim; generally a little higher on the left side (looking at the stove); shape - thick, yellow, strong flames
We'll check the thermocoupler (7) and clean the vent (2 and slls response) asap.
This may be irrelevant, but we noticed a lot more ash production, and more clinkers in the ash pot - but we don't know if the quality of Golden Fire pellets has gone down or if it's a result of a stove problem.
slls and imsocold - THANK YOU for your time and patience!
First, back to the circulation blower. If the up and down motion to the housing is firm and is just pivoted at the mounting point in the middle, that is OK because of the rubber mounting. But if it moves rather freely, then the mount needs looking at.
Now:
If the fan blades spin freely and when you listen to it you don't hear noise that could be attributed to bearing noise, the motor should be fine.
1) The Baffle plates are the big plates that angle forward covering the heat exchanger tubes. But I see you took them off and cleaned there. Good.
4) The Firepot cut off plate at the bottom should have a good tight fit. I had mine out and filed the bottom of the pot flat and square and made the plate flat as well, then tweeked and shimmed the plate so it has a nice smooth glide home and tight fit of only about 1/32". I know this is fanatical, but it insures no flame cutting of the metal through the gap causing burnout and worsening the problem. Anyway, I first vacuum out the pot to suck out the clinkers, then I use a 5/8" sharp wood chisel held straight up to scrape the bottom of the cut off plate till it is smooth. Use the vacuum again and it sucks out all the dust that accumulates in the holes, the igniter and igniter slot. Then use the rod to open and close the cut off plate. I use the cut off plate after every burn if I can, but it soon gets tough so I stop. The reason for the tight fit is to prevent improper air intake into the firepot.
5) The ashdoor is pulled out and dumped and vacuumed inside and out at each cleaning. This somewhat reduces the amount of ash that gets sucked through the exhaust fan. I have the stand alone model so mine is different. I would assume there would have to be a real snug fit between the ashpan door and the case if they overlap and screw together. This area can't leak because it affects the amount of combustion air, thus changing the burn. The flame you described sounds good, so long as they aren't lazy and the fingers higher by the thermocouple. This seems like the opposite of what you have...odd.
All of these things I have mentioned so far will reduce the ash and improve the burn and efficiency, plus hopefully give the correct flame curve. What is actually your problem, at least as I see it, is identical to what I had a problem with. I had replaced the t-couple just 6 months prior and the cover. I found that I actually had to replace it again because somehow the new one had failed. Conveniently there isn't a warranty on them. I feel once you replace the t-couple, your problem will be licked. If not, then it could lead to the evil BOX!
So, there you have it. I've assigned you a lot of homework.
THIS HAS GOT TO BE THE ANSWER, OR I'LL SCREAM!
:ahhh:
Now:
If the fan blades spin freely and when you listen to it you don't hear noise that could be attributed to bearing noise, the motor should be fine.
1) The Baffle plates are the big plates that angle forward covering the heat exchanger tubes. But I see you took them off and cleaned there. Good.
4) The Firepot cut off plate at the bottom should have a good tight fit. I had mine out and filed the bottom of the pot flat and square and made the plate flat as well, then tweeked and shimmed the plate so it has a nice smooth glide home and tight fit of only about 1/32". I know this is fanatical, but it insures no flame cutting of the metal through the gap causing burnout and worsening the problem. Anyway, I first vacuum out the pot to suck out the clinkers, then I use a 5/8" sharp wood chisel held straight up to scrape the bottom of the cut off plate till it is smooth. Use the vacuum again and it sucks out all the dust that accumulates in the holes, the igniter and igniter slot. Then use the rod to open and close the cut off plate. I use the cut off plate after every burn if I can, but it soon gets tough so I stop. The reason for the tight fit is to prevent improper air intake into the firepot.
5) The ashdoor is pulled out and dumped and vacuumed inside and out at each cleaning. This somewhat reduces the amount of ash that gets sucked through the exhaust fan. I have the stand alone model so mine is different. I would assume there would have to be a real snug fit between the ashpan door and the case if they overlap and screw together. This area can't leak because it affects the amount of combustion air, thus changing the burn. The flame you described sounds good, so long as they aren't lazy and the fingers higher by the thermocouple. This seems like the opposite of what you have...odd.
All of these things I have mentioned so far will reduce the ash and improve the burn and efficiency, plus hopefully give the correct flame curve. What is actually your problem, at least as I see it, is identical to what I had a problem with. I had replaced the t-couple just 6 months prior and the cover. I found that I actually had to replace it again because somehow the new one had failed. Conveniently there isn't a warranty on them. I feel once you replace the t-couple, your problem will be licked. If not, then it could lead to the evil BOX!
So, there you have it. I've assigned you a lot of homework.
THIS HAS GOT TO BE THE ANSWER, OR I'LL SCREAM!
:ahhh:
First, back to the circulation blower. If the up and down motion to the housing is firm and is just pivoted at the mounting point in the middle, that is OK because of the rubber mounting. But if it moves rather freely, then the mount needs looking at.
Now:
If the fan blades spin freely and when you listen to it you don’t hear noise that could be attributed to bearing noise, the motor should be fine.
1) The Baffle plates are the big plates that angle forward covering the heat exchanger tubes. But I see you took them off and cleaned there. Good.
4) The Firepot cut off plate at the bottom should have a good tight fit. I had mine out and filed the bottom of the pot flat and square and made the plate flat as well, then tweeked and shimmed the plate so it has a nice smooth glide home and tight fit of only about 1/32”. I know this is fanatical, but it insures no flame cutting of the metal through the gap causing burnout and worsening the problem. Anyway, I first vacuum out the pot to suck out the clinkers, then I use a 5/8” sharp wood chisel held straight up to scrape the bottom of the cut off plate till it is smooth. Use the vacuum again and it sucks out all the dust that accumulates in the holes, the igniter and igniter slot. Then use the rod to open and close the cut off plate. I use the cut off plate after every burn if I can, but it soon gets tough so I stop. The reason for the tight fit is to prevent improper air intake into the firepot.
5) The ashdoor is pulled out and dumped and vacuumed inside and out at each cleaning. This somewhat reduces the amount of ash that gets sucked through the exhaust fan. I have the stand alone model so mine is different. I would assume there would have to be a real snug fit between the ashpan door and the case if they overlap and screw together. This area can’t leak because it affects the amount of combustion air, thus changing the burn. The flame you described sounds good, so long as they aren’t lazy and the fingers higher by the thermocouple. This seems like the opposite of what you have...odd.
All of these things I have mentioned so far will reduce the ash and improve the burn and efficiency, plus hopefully give the correct flame curve. What is actually your problem, at least as I see it, is identical to what I had a problem with. I had replaced the t-couple just 6 months prior and the cover. I found that I actually had to replace it again because somehow the new one had failed. Conveniently there isn’t a warranty on them. I feel once you replace the t-couple, your problem will be licked. If not, then it could lead to the evil BOX!
So, there you have it. I’ve assigned you a lot of homework.
THIS HAS GOT TO BE THE ANSWER, OR I’LL SCREAM! :ahhh:
Now:
If the fan blades spin freely and when you listen to it you don’t hear noise that could be attributed to bearing noise, the motor should be fine.
1) The Baffle plates are the big plates that angle forward covering the heat exchanger tubes. But I see you took them off and cleaned there. Good.
4) The Firepot cut off plate at the bottom should have a good tight fit. I had mine out and filed the bottom of the pot flat and square and made the plate flat as well, then tweeked and shimmed the plate so it has a nice smooth glide home and tight fit of only about 1/32”. I know this is fanatical, but it insures no flame cutting of the metal through the gap causing burnout and worsening the problem. Anyway, I first vacuum out the pot to suck out the clinkers, then I use a 5/8” sharp wood chisel held straight up to scrape the bottom of the cut off plate till it is smooth. Use the vacuum again and it sucks out all the dust that accumulates in the holes, the igniter and igniter slot. Then use the rod to open and close the cut off plate. I use the cut off plate after every burn if I can, but it soon gets tough so I stop. The reason for the tight fit is to prevent improper air intake into the firepot.
5) The ashdoor is pulled out and dumped and vacuumed inside and out at each cleaning. This somewhat reduces the amount of ash that gets sucked through the exhaust fan. I have the stand alone model so mine is different. I would assume there would have to be a real snug fit between the ashpan door and the case if they overlap and screw together. This area can’t leak because it affects the amount of combustion air, thus changing the burn. The flame you described sounds good, so long as they aren’t lazy and the fingers higher by the thermocouple. This seems like the opposite of what you have...odd.
All of these things I have mentioned so far will reduce the ash and improve the burn and efficiency, plus hopefully give the correct flame curve. What is actually your problem, at least as I see it, is identical to what I had a problem with. I had replaced the t-couple just 6 months prior and the cover. I found that I actually had to replace it again because somehow the new one had failed. Conveniently there isn’t a warranty on them. I feel once you replace the t-couple, your problem will be licked. If not, then it could lead to the evil BOX!
So, there you have it. I’ve assigned you a lot of homework.
THIS HAS GOT TO BE THE ANSWER, OR I’LL SCREAM! :ahhh:
- Status
Similar threads
