QuadraFire Classic Bay 1200 Insert Install Question

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mlantz

Member
Feb 13, 2011
12
Just north of New York City
I just moved into my new modular home and the oil bills are killing me. I was looking online and found the Quadra-Fire Classic Bay 1200 insert and it seems perfect for my needs. My questions involve installation. Since I already have a manufactured fireplace, namely a BC36MH woodburning fireplace by MHSC, would my install require more than connecting the output from the pellet stove to my existing flue? Do I have to do any work to the flue? The fireplace I have now is through the wall on the first floor and the flue goes on the outside of the house all the way up above the roof line. I realize that the pellet stove would stick out from the fireplace and would need to be supported between there and the hearth as well as connected to electricity. I'm pretty handy and was thinking of tackling this project myself but I want to make sure it gets done right.

Any help is appreciated!!

Mike
 
I would run a 4" liner all the way up and seal it at the top and the bottom, around the surround.

I wake up in cold sweats thinking of manufactured fireplaces. They are the worst invention next to water saver toilets.

Eric
 
Eric, that was quick and thanks for the information!!

Do you think this can be done by a diy'er? Is it as simple as sliding the 4" liner inside the whole length of the flue and connecting it to the exhaust of the pellet stove? When you say seal it at the top and bottom, the bottom would get sealed at the pellet stove but at the top?

Thanks again!
 
My son is in a similar situation. One other thing to remember is that you MUST hook up the outside air to the insert. All manufactured homes require it. Your fireplace has one hooked to it. If we do his, he has an 8" pipe straight thru the roof so we would run a 3-4" liner straight up along with a 2" OAK. Then terminate it at the top like Eric said. Getting the damper out will be a job for a hacksaw, I guess. Can't see any other way. The Sante Fe/ Castile don't stick out as far I believe but you give up BTU output.
 
Sealing at the top so the 4" can exhaust but you need to seal any other openings so the gasses and fly ash are not sucked back into the house. Sealing at the bottom is done by fiberglass insulation behind the surround as it sets next to/ with the fireplace. This can not be 100% due to the curtains that open on the CB1200I and it does help against rattling.

My installers just did one Saturday on a masonary fireplacce with a 35' liner system.

Eric
 
If the $800 includes a full liner, Oh yes. If no parts are included. I would counter with $600 cash and have them explain everything they are going to do. Look at the owners manual on line, www.Quadrafire.com.

Eric
 
I don't know what Eric is going to say but I paid $800 to have my TWO inserts installed with 17' of flexible liner in each one. Again don't forget that you MUST hook up the outside air.
 
tjnamtiw said:
I don't know what Eric is going to say but I paid $800 to have my TWO inserts installed with 17' of flexible liner in each one. Again don't forget that you MUST hook up the outside air.


In a masonry or manufactured fireplace?
 
The $800 was for the install only, plus $350 for the liner.

Thanks for all the information. The install seems like it's pretty straight forward, connect the outside air that's already run to my existing box, insert the liner, connect it to the new pellet stove, connect the cap .... I'd save $800 minus the cost of having to buy a new ladder since mine isn't tall enough.
 
kinsman stoves said:
tjnamtiw said:
I don't know what Eric is going to say but I paid $800 to have my TWO inserts installed with 17' of flexible liner in each one. Again don't forget that you MUST hook up the outside air.


In a masonry or manufactured fireplace?

Read page 4 of the installation manual >> http://www.quadrafire.com/~/media/Files/Quadrafire/Installation Manuals/man_1200MI_MBK.ashx

Not sure why that didn't come up correctly as a link. Look at the 'manufactured home' part.

go to Quadrafire.com, select pellet stoves, Classic bay, details, and installation manual. You'll still need a ladder to get to the top of the existing flue outside but this is a great excuse to get one. I look for excuses to buy tools and this one is perfect. There's no way in hell I would pay $1150 to install an insert. They are nuts!
 
tjnamtiw said:
kinsman stoves said:
tjnamtiw said:
I don't know what Eric is going to say but I paid $800 to have my TWO inserts installed with 17' of flexible liner in each one. Again don't forget that you MUST hook up the outside air.


In a masonry or manufactured fireplace?

Read page 4 of the installation manual >> http://www.quadrafire.com/~/media/Files/Quadrafire/Installation Manuals/man_1200MI_MBK.ashx

Not sure why that didn't come up correctly as a link. Look at the 'manufactured home' part.

go to Quadrafire.com, select pellet stoves, Classic bay, details, and installation manual. You'll still need a ladder to get to the top of the existing flue outside but this is a great excuse to get one. I look for excuses to buy tools and this one is perfect. There's no way in hell I would pay $1150 to install an insert. They are nuts!

What are we looking for?
 
kinsman stoves said:
tjnamtiw said:
I don't know what Eric is going to say but I paid $800 to have my TWO inserts installed with 17' of flexible liner in each one. Again don't forget that you MUST hook up the outside air.


In a masonry or manufactured fireplace?

Mine are masonry fireplaces. That included the liner, a 1 1/2 hour trip each way, plus removing the existing wood burning inserts for me to sell, plus unloading a ton of pellets into my garage.
 
kinsman stoves said:
tjnamtiw said:
kinsman stoves said:
tjnamtiw said:
I don't know what Eric is going to say but I paid $800 to have my TWO inserts installed with 17' of flexible liner in each one. Again don't forget that you MUST hook up the outside air.


In a masonry or manufactured fireplace?

Read page 4 of the installation manual >> http://www.quadrafire.com/~/media/Files/Quadrafire/Installation Manuals/man_1200MI_MBK.ashx

Not sure why that didn't come up correctly as a link. Look at the 'manufactured home' part.

go to Quadrafire.com, select pellet stoves, Classic bay, details, and installation manual. You'll still need a ladder to get to the top of the existing flue outside but this is a great excuse to get one. I look for excuses to buy tools and this one is perfect. There's no way in hell I would pay $1150 to install an insert. They are nuts!

What are we looking for?

He said he wouldn't have to buy a ladder if he did it himself. EDIT>>> Now I see he said 'minus'. My mistake. :cheese:
 
tjnamtiw said:
kinsman stoves said:
tjnamtiw said:
I don't know what Eric is going to say but I paid $800 to have my TWO inserts installed with 17' of flexible liner in each one. Again don't forget that you MUST hook up the outside air.


In a masonry or manufactured fireplace?

Mine are masonry fireplaces. That included the liner, a 1 1/2 hour trip each way, plus removing the existing wood burning inserts for me to sell, plus unloading a ton of pellets into my garage.



Generally (knock on wood), masonry are much easier than manufactured. We are doing a wood insert today with a 25'x6" liner.

Eric
 
Alright, you guys have a lot of good info. Let me make sure I've got this right.

Buy the pellet stove insert, buy nice new ladder, buy 4" liner, drop liner down existing flue, hack saw off the flue damper, connect liner to new pellet stove, connect outside air, connect electricity, put new insert into existing firebox, support the front, connect liner to cap up top? How much you think I would have to pay for the liner and fittings? my chase is about 30' I'd estimate.
 
30 feet??? Do you have a two story manufactured home? Must be a modular home. I'll let Eric address the termination at the top but I would think you'd have to remove the existing cap and replace it with a sheet metal plate through which your smaller liner will protrude and be terminated as usual.
 
yes, 2 story, center hall colonial modular home. open floor plan, with a 2 story entry foyer which will help the hot air get upstairs. Can i turn on the fan for the central forced air heat and use that the help circulate the hot air?
 
big difference between manufactured and modular! I am looking seriously at modular as well. They make so much sense and are really built very well. So much better than stick built because it's built inside. People still don't realize the advantages and just think of them as 'trailers'. :)

The use of your fan in your whole house system is a topic that comes up here a lot and is still open to debate. If your ducting is all inside your living space, then most people will tell you yes but if it runs under the house in a crawl space (like mine) then it really depends on how well the ducting is insulated. They make a gadget that you can attach to your thermostat that will turn on your fan every so often to circulate the air. The links in here somewhere and was talked about maybe a month ago at max.
 
modular homes have come a long way from years ago where they were all the same rectangular box and any changes were really expensive. we're really happy with it except for the oil bills, hence the posting about the stove. when you come to ny to install my stove, I'll give you a tour and give you the lessons we learned along the way. :)
 
Mike - I purchased my Quadrafire 1200i this past September for my 3,300 sq/ft Tri-Level home. The house is heavily insulated and the stove is located on the first floor (ground level). I'm a pretty aggressive home improvement project kinda guy, but I decided to leave this one to the pros. I don't have any of the roof safety gear (harness, ropes, etc) and with 40ft peak on the chimney (outside wall no less), I wasn't messing around.

From a cost standpoint, I paid a grand total of $4,060 (including tax and installation).
Basic Stove (Black Trim with Black Door) = $2,493.
40ft of 4†Magnaflex S/S liner = $525 (Again 40ft for Tri-Level Home)
Damper Blockoff Plate = $75.00
High Temp Silicone = $12.00
3†to 4†offset adapter = $64.00
Installation = $800
Tax = $197.06

The OAK IS NOT REQUIRED for the Quad 1200i. I'm not running one because my installer, who was extremely knowledgeable, advised against it. Some members of this forum swear by it.....other members agree it's overkill. Just personal preference. I can tell you from my own standpoint my stove runs PERFECT without the OAK. Granted having 40ft of draft doesn't hurt either.

Stove company also threw in four free bags of pellets (2 bags of Okanagan & 2 bags of Dry Creek).

I thought it was pretty fair deal considering the installers (2 men) were onsite for 6 hours from start to finish.
 
glosta - I was thinking the same thing regarding leaving it to the pro's - no ladder and safety gear. Plus the whole burning the house down thing too ...

I was quoted;
$2700 for the stove, all black trim
$800 for the installation
$350 for the pipe (I assume now he was referring to the liner)
$250 for the support trim for under the front since my opening is about 8" of the floor
Tax is also additional

so roughly $4100 plus tax ....

I am always up for a diy project, especially to save money ... but I'm not so sure about this one.

Also, I'm not sure if this is the right forum but you may know since you brought up insulation. I have a full attic with pull-down stairs. The 2nd floor ceiling/attic floor is insulated. Would insulating the attic ceiling help keep with regard to keeping the house warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer?
 
mlantz said:
modular homes have come a long way from years ago where they were all the same rectangular box and any changes were really expensive. we're really happy with it except for the oil bills, hence the posting about the stove. when you come to ny to install my stove, I'll give you a tour and give you the lessons we learned along the way. :)

I thought new homes were fuel efficient.
 
Mike - Insulating the ceiling joists would be outstanding in terms of minimizing heat loss, but you can only do it IF you can maintain efficient ventilation in your attic. 1) you have a full soffit on the front and rear of your home. Not just a couple of 4" x 6" holes every four feet. I mean full air intake along the entire length of the soffit. 2) you have a full ridge vent on roof 3) you're able to run plastic or Styrofoam vent channels ALL THE WAY from the bottom of your soffit right to the ridge vent. Then you can insulate over the vent channels from top to bottom. I've got R38 insulation on the floor and R-30 on the attic ceiling (with proper air flow channeling from soffit to ridge).

By the way. The Quad 1200i is a Great Stove!!! Excellent Choice!
Rich
 
I know items 1 and 2 I have, but I know nothing about item 3. Is that something I would add while insulating or did they do that when they built the house? I don't see anything that looks like it would be a channel like you describe.
 
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