Quadrafire Yosemite

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mfetcho

Member
Jan 24, 2007
114
Spokane, WA
I recently purchased a two year old used Quadrafire Yosemite. I am having some airflow issues with the primary and secondary air controls. Has anyone had any issues with this stove? I also have a Quadrafire Cumberland Gap and I love it. The air controls are fantastic. I don't seem to get nearly the same air on the Yosemite as I do on the Cumberland Gap. Does anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks,

Matt
 
Check all the gasketing including the ash door. If anything is suspect, replace it. Normally "control" issuers are because too much air is getting in someplace else.

Also the door latch on the Yosemite is.. different.. you just turn it clockwise to about 2 o'clock I think, till the latch catches. If the door starts lifting up at all you are turning it too far.
 
Ahhh, I noticed turning the handle too far started to lift the door. My proplem is not enough air flow. I think my gaskets are all in good shape. If I look at the secondary air control on my Cumberland Gap I can see the flap open all the way. On my Yosemite, it opens an 1/8" - 1/4", not much at all. When I adjust the control, I don't see a lot of flame adjustment like I do with my CG. I'm trying to keep a hot fire in it and it's difficult even with the air wide open.
 
Can you describe the flue system that the Yosemite is connected to?
 
If you remove the ash lip you can get a really good look at the primary air control slot where the plate slides over the hole. Also check your connector pipe for leakage. Info about the chimney might help us as BeGreen said. Let us know if its double wall or single wall black pipe.
 
Thanks for the info on the primary air control. I'll take a look at that this weekend. The chimney is 6" single wall pipe that rises vertically for about 15 feet and then it makes a 45 degree jog to get around the peak of the roof. It then ties into double wall insulated pipe that goes through the roof. The chimney is all new and has had 3 weekends of burn time.
 
Are all the joints of the single wall tight or sealed? We have one Yosemite we used single wall on out the rear and one piece puckered in a little where the seam was, it was letting air into the flue diluting and cooling the gasses which causes a terrible draft.
 
Fetch said:
Ahhh, I noticed turning the handle too far started to lift the door. My proplem is not enough air flow. I think my gaskets are all in good shape. If I look at the secondary air control on my Cumberland Gap I can see the flap open all the way. On my Yosemite, it opens an 1/8" - 1/4", not much at all. When I adjust the control, I don't see a lot of flame adjustment like I do with my CG. I'm trying to keep a hot fire in it and it's difficult even with the air wide open.

How do you inspect the air control on the Cumberland Gap? First we had an overfire condition and the air shuttter wouldn't shut the fire down, now we have the opposite and opening it up all the way still doesn't burn well. Is it possible that the shutter handle is disconnected from the shutter itself?

Thanks.

Herb
 
jtp10181 - Good thought with the air coming into the flue. I bought the Simson Duravent thinking it was better pipe then the crimped stuff you can buy at the hardware store. It makes sense though. Is there anything you can use on joints to help seal it. Caulk? What can withstand that kind of heat?

If I crack open the ash pan a little to draw air, I can get a heck of a fire going. The draft seems to work great when I do that. I just want to be able to use my air controls like I do on my Cumberland Gap.

Herb - I checked the linkage before I started it up last weekend and everything looked fine. I'll check it again this weekend. I overfired my Cumberland Gap once with the secondary air control wide open and it stuck open. I couldn't pull it shut. I ended up opening the doors letting the stove cool down before I could close it. Everything has worked fine since.
 
Good thought with the air coming into the flue. I bought the Simson Duravent thinking it was better pipe then the crimped stuff you can buy at the hardware store. It makes sense though. Is there anything you can use on joints to help seal it. Caulk? What can withstand that kind of heat?

Rutland black furnace cement worked well on my Simpson single wall pipe to my wall thimble.

If you still can't get it to work right your dealer might have some good suggestions.
 
tsalagi777 said:
Fetch said:
Ahhh, I noticed turning the handle too far started to lift the door. My proplem is not enough air flow. I think my gaskets are all in good shape. If I look at the secondary air control on my Cumberland Gap I can see the flap open all the way. On my Yosemite, it opens an 1/8" - 1/4", not much at all. When I adjust the control, I don't see a lot of flame adjustment like I do with my CG. I'm trying to keep a hot fire in it and it's difficult even with the air wide open.

How do you inspect the air control on the Cumberland Gap? First we had an overfire condition and the air shuttter wouldn't shut the fire down, now we have the opposite and opening it up all the way still doesn't burn well. Is it possible that the shutter handle is disconnected from the shutter itself?

Thanks.

Herb

The primary air or the startup air? Have you check the chimney and cap for blockage? The mechanisms are very simple, just rods welded to a plate. I have not really seen any fall apart.
 
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