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Question about Harman TL200

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by burgandyrose, Dec 11, 2012.

  1. burgandyrose

    burgandyrose New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2012
    Messages:
    1
    I have a 10 year old Harman TL200. About 2 years ago had to replace the gasket on the damper. The damper is hooked to the stove with 2 damper clips and screws. I now have a problem with the damper clips. There is a slight binding when I use the top loading handle which is also hooked to the damper. It works all right for a while, then the damper clip loosens up and then have to let the stove go out so the clip screws can be tighten again. My local dealer is useless, as when I had to replace the gasket, we lost one of the clips and it took him 2 months to get new ones (I told him to keep them, winter was half over). Luckily I found a new dealer 50 miles away that mailed me the clips.

    Does anyone have a solution to this????

    I really like this stove. I have a back problem so being a top loader it is really nice.

    Thank you

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  2. DAKSY

    DAKSY Patriot Guard Rider Staff Member

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    Messages:
    5,062
    Loc:
    Averill Park, NY, on Burden Lake II...
    I'd Google for a Loctite thread locker that has some high heat applications. You may have an issue when you need to re-gasket the damper, but you can address that when the time comes...
  3. Delta-T

    Delta-T Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2008
    Messages:
    3,095
    Loc:
    NH
    i wonder if you could just get some spring washers on there to keep the bolts under tension?
  4. jbythesea

    jbythesea New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2012
    Messages:
    18
    Loc:
    Southern Maine
    Hi Burgandyrose,

    My first post here but I read your question and can offer the following - if you haven't already figured things out.

    I'm rebuilding one of these stoves which I got for free and it has a similar problem. In my case the damper frame is warped (most likely from an over-firing). The bow causes the damper to bind. It also allows the latch and the pin that the latch uses to open the damper to disengage from each other. In my case, there is excessive lateral play in the damper due to the bowing. This is a big part of the problem.

    As you probably already know, the damper assy is easy to remove with just two bolts holding it in. If you eye along its length, make sure it's flat and not bowed. If bowed you may need to replace it. Talking to a Harman repairman/friend, he says that once you do, it's as good as new.

    Not to hijack the thread, but I'm trying to track down a part for mine in case you or anyone reading this knows of one. I'm looking for an after burner hood weldment (part # 1-10-08200) I don't have the money for a new one, so I'm hoping to find one used in good condition.I also have a question about the weldment that you might be able to help with. There are two ports on the outside edges of mine that channel smoke into the AB. The middle of mine is melted away but it looks like there might have been one more of these ports there. Is this true? if so, does it actually lead anywhere? From what is left of mine, it looks like it's open to the front and then dead ends inside the casting. I'm also looking for the damper frame mentioned above (part #1-10-08200).

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