Question for Coaly

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Homesteader23

Member
Oct 24, 2015
25
Michigan
Coaly I just looked at the Grandpa Bear III I asked you about 2 weeks ago, And the stove first appeared very nice but inside near the upper back there is a piece of metal that is broken and warped. Also some of the rails that support the firebrick have pieces missing. Maybe the broken piece is called a smoke shelf ? Is this common and still a nice stove, or should I keep on looking. I really want one I can use right now. Thanks for any information. My barrel stove is keeping us warm for now.
 
Would need pictures to tell you what you're looking at.
It should have a baffle plate that rests on angle iron welded onto the sides on an angle.
Perhaps the rails were not solid rails? Earlier stoves had short pieces called clips or retainers, before they became an entire long piece. It only takes a very short piece of angle at each brick joint to hold two bricks each. If there is enough to hold brick in position it's fine.
 
Would need pictures to tell you what you're looking at.
It should have a baffle plate that rests on angle iron welded onto the sides on an angle.
Perhaps the rails were not solid rails? Earlier stoves had short pieces called clips or retainers, before they became an entire long piece. It only takes a very short piece of angle at each brick joint to hold two bricks each. If there is enough to hold brick in position it's fine.
 
Coaly thanks for getting back with me. It probably is the baffle I was looking at thats in bad shape. It was welded on angle iron supports on an angle under the top mounted exhaust. The rails that support the fire brick look to have been solid straight rails with a few areas where there is a jagged piece broken out. But there is enough there yet to support the fire brick just fine. Is it common for the baffle to be burned out or is it a stove that is well used or over-fired? Thanks
 
Sounds like it was just used hard. The worst baffle I've seen was only warped. The cast iron type in other stoves is another story. They erode, warp, crack into pieces......
That baffle plate was probably like this. They usually stop at the angle iron supports with 2 X 3 notches in the corners as shown below;

XL in Kanab Utah ebay 2.jpg Smoke Shelf Baffle 1984 Goldilocks.JPG
 
Thanks Coaly . The pictures you sent were of the piece I was talking about. It was all cracked and broken up. I wish I would have taken some pictures of it. But I did'nt and it was a 2 hr. drive away. I will keep looking for now and let you know when I get one Thanks for your help
 
Hello Coaly I found another Grandpa Bear I"m interested in. This one has the rear mounted flue instead of the top mounted.Either one would fit my application but I was wondering if there were any advantages or disadvantages between the two? I have not went to see it yet I hope it"s in better shape than the last one I told you about. Thanks for any information
 
They were made for different installations, the rear vent being more efficient.
Depending on model year (Series) double wall connector pipe may be required with rear vent.

I merged your two threads with same title.
 
Last edited:
They were made for different installations, the rear vent being more efficient.
Depending on model year (Series) double wall connector pipe may be required with rear vent.

I merged your two threads with same title.
It's a non UL listed Grandpa Bear with arched doors. In the picture I saw, it had a 6" single wall reducer on it. Would that need a double wall connector pipe? Thank you for all the info!
 
The UL listed Model III requires double wall connector pipe in horizontal through the wall installations. That is due to installation instructions in the listed manual requiring it.
Your particular installation could require it for close clearance or when single wall pipe is excessively long to prevent heat loss before chimney.
Most installations can benefit from using double wall pipe since less heat loss from connector pipe keeps the flue hotter with less loss out of the stove.
 
Thank You for that info Coaly. If I end up with this stove I think I might go with my existing single wall stove pipe. It only has to go straight up appx 5 ft. terminating into my triple wall chimney. I was thinking of staying with 8 in. pipe and installing a damper. I will contact my insurance man Mon. to see if there is any problem insuring without a ul tag. I am having trouble finding a Grandpa Bear with the ul tag. Thanks again
 
UL Listed to MH 11256. Here is the 1979 cover of the manual showing optional Cathedral Door;

1979  III Manual.jpg Getting them to accept a manual as proof without a UL Tag is another matter.........
 
Is the insurance company ok with your barrel stove?
 
looking for legs for my fisher stove
Hi,
Do you know what model stove you have?
Arched top doors or flat top?
There are many leg styles for the bolt on legs for Series III.
Perhaps you have an Insert that isn't a stove and doesn't use legs like a freestanding stove?
A picture would be best if possible so we know what you have.
If you have problems posting pictures, you can send them to [email protected]
 
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The Inserts were made to sit on a non-combustible hearth. No legs are available, you would need to make your own. Most set them on blocks or bricks like you did.
You can set it on a double row of bricks, (two courses) put together dry so it looks like a miniature foundation under it. Or mortar them together like a wall to set it on. Something like I did for this stationary steam engine ;

Jacktown 2003 Annual Show #2.jpg

Here's some tall legs I call the "Handicapped Accessible Insert". It's the ugliest one I've seen - but that's just my opinion; Series III Brass and Glass. The doors are supposed to be painted black all but around the polished edges.

Poor Insert 2.jpg Poor Insert 3.jpg Poor Insert 4.jpg

And propane cylinders indoors area no-no. It isn't mine.
 
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