Question for Stove Bright paint users

[Shari]

We have an antique pot belly stove that needs to be 'cleaned up' a bit. I'm thinking about using Stove Bright paint on it (yes, I will be careful with the fumes).

This subject stove is not a usable stove - it's just for decoration right now.

I want to end up with a semi-gloss finish. Will the Stove Bright paint provide something like a semi-gloss finish without firing up the stove?

 

[fossil]

If you're never going to fire it, why use stove paint? Just get some regular old flat or semi-gloss paint that tickles your fancy and doesn't require heat to cure it properly. Rick

 

[Shari]

If you're never going to fire it, why use stove paint? Just get some regular old flat or semi-gloss paint that tickles your fancy and doesn't require heat to cure it properly. Rick

Rick, I appreciate the thought but I guess I'm trying to keep the stove in somewhat of a condition that I or another user down the line could still fire it. I'm not a real fan of people restoring a stove just for 'exterior looks' but would rather restore for future 'real use' - hope that makes sense.

 

[fossil]

Sure, it makes sense, but I don't think you'll be happy with the results of using stove brite paint unless you follow through with heat-curing it. It'll look sort of blotchy, with shiny spots, and may even remain a bit tacky for quite a while, attracting lots of dust or whatever. That paint's specifically formulated to be "cooked" shortly after application. Rick

 

[Shari]

Rick - That is exactly the input I'm looking for. So, what would be your thoughts of using a high temp paint designed for a BBQ? Would that look 'blotchy' without heat curing it? Would that type of paint react negatively with Stove Bright applied later?

I'm not too interested in using stove polish as, to me anyways, Stove Bright is THE way to go for an almost factory finish and I understand from others here on the list that stove polish and Stove Bright later on don't necessarily play nice together.

My knowledge/understanding is always subject to correction....

 

[Hogwildz]

The stove bright I used "metallic charcoal" wasn't blotchy after refinishing the insert, nor did it stay tacky. But it also is not gloss or semi gloss. More flat or matte finish.

 

[Shari]

Hog - thanks for the input as I've never used Stove Bright so I'm looking for direction here.

Here's a thought: What if I used Stove Bright and then lightly 'torched' the paint from the outside of the stove? "Torched" - has lots of meanings - maybe hot air gun from the outside might be a better term.

 

[Shari]

PS I might also be working on an antique wood fired cook stove... so I'm trying to plan what might work best on each stove.

I think I'm acquiring a cast iron obsession...... just finished restoring a cast iron Dutch oven - but that's a whole different process (no paint on a DO)...

 

[skinanbones]

I find that if you leave the stove out in the sun it will cure rock hard and if it looks blotchy it do to how you laid on the paint. If you really want closer to a gloss finish and would use this stove much look at stove bright gas paints. They will dry glossy and if you ever do fire the stove it will burn the gloss off and turn to a matt finish with out effecting colour.

 

[grommal]

I use StoveBrite on my pipe. The "color" I picked was actually called something like "stovepipe black", and it turned out to be a little semi-glossy. No blotchiness or tackiness before cooking. Turned to very matte after cooking.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

The best Stove Bright finish to use without curing would be Metallic Black since it has tiny flakes of metal in the finish which gives a metallic sheen look. An alternative that used to be used on old stoves is "stove black", which is a substance you would apply to the surface with a rag. It will burn off more quickly but if you're not planning on firing the stove that wouldn't matter. The problem is that it leaves a waxy film on the surface, so painting over with stove paint would be difficult without a lot of cleaning.

 

[Shari]

The best Stove Bright finish to use without curing would be Metallic Black since it has tiny flakes of metal in the finish which gives a metallic sheen look. An alternative that used to be used on old stoves is "stove black", which is a substance you would apply to the surface with a rag. It will burn off more quickly but if you're not planning on firing the stove that wouldn't matter. The problem is that it leaves a waxy film on the surface, so painting over with stove paint would be difficult without a lot of cleaning.

Yup - I've heard that before which is why I want to stay away from 'stove black'.

Thanks everyone for all the suggestions.

 

[coaly]

If it's a cast iron antique, it would have been done with stove black since new. So you're already into cleaning it off. You can test it by rubbing with a rag with mineral spirits to see if the rag looks like black shoe polish real quick.

If you must paint; Metallic Stove Bright is closest to stove black (polish) when Rutland Stove Polish is buffed. All other finishes will be quite flat, even Stove Bright Satin is very dull.
To remove stove black (polish), I find a scrub brush with mineral spirits takes it right off. Before painting wipe with laquer thinner, and paint sticks fine.

I personally keep polish on cast, paint on steel plate. Polish doesn't fill in the detail or cover the surface texture like paint. I stove polish these stove legs instead of paint, no smell, rub it on with a brush, let dry and buff.

The draft cap on the right is Stove Bright Satin.
The stove top is Stove Bright Metallic.

 

[Shari]

Coaly,

Great post - great knowledge! Question: What brand stove polish do you use?

I have another pot belly stove that needs 'something...

 

[coaly]

Rutland

I have an antique Griswold damper collection that I've wire wheeled old rusty ones and coated them with it as well. Rust has never came back through it. It only takes a minute to dry before hand buffing, and you can handle the parts right away. Stack them, bolt them together, no waiting for paint to cure before handling and chipping paint off.
It takes rough porous cast iron to get a good finish. It will look like graphite powder in lock lubricant with sparkles. Machined stove tops or smooth spots won't take easily, the black rubs off and you have dark shiny metal.