Question on chimney construction

[southbalto]

First off, this site is great and I thank all the contributors for their advice. I think I've narrowed down the type of stove I'll buy based on the info I've gathered here.

Before the stove comes the chimney. I currently have a prefab chimney with a zero clearance FB installed. The project for next year will be to remove all of it and replace it with a full masonry chimney. I'll likely start the project in the spring and will have some professional help (dad did masonry work for 30+ years).

I was just curious to find out if there was a preferred design for the chimmey. Would it be best to run a 6" clay liner from the top to the room where the stove will sit? Would it be better to leave the chimney un-lined and then run a s/s from the top all the way to the stove? I was thinking the latter might give me more flexability in the future. That is, if the liner was damaged, or I needed a larger flue size, it would only be a matter of dropping a new liner in.

Thoughts?

 

[oconnor]

I would stick to a stainless liner, and likely a preinsulated stainless one at that. Without the insulation, you will need 1 or 2 inches of airspace around the brick exterior to meet code. Insulated, and you no longer have the clearance issues concerning chimney contact with combustibles. That would seem to make it way easier to build the flue.

Other than looks, why are you going with a brick chimney? I would be more likely to use the masonary skills to add to the look of the install, and rely on a Stainless flue from a well know manufacturer to do the heavy lifting of venting the appliance. Easier to maintain later when portions of the flue fail (and whether brick or steel, it will fail eventually) Even above the roof line, there are good products out there to help with the poor looks of a stainless flue sticking out.

Just a thought.

 

[southbalto]

Well, I've got a prefab fireplace that just hangs off the side of the house at the moment. I'd like to go with masonry because doing so will allow me to push the stove out of the room somewhat. The stove will sit 8" or so out of the house and out of the living room.

 

[jtp10181]

You could just do a built in EPA approved wood fireplace with a metal chimney. Would be a hell of a lot less work.

 

[southbalto]

EPA approved wood fireplace? I'm trying to install a stove.

 

[jtp10181]

So install a Class A chimney, build a chase around it and put bricks on the outside.

 

[oconnor]

Well, I've got a prefab fireplace that just hangs off the side of the house at the moment. I'd like to go with masonry because doing so will allow me to push the stove out of the room somewhat. The stove will sit 8" or so out of the house and out of the living room.

I'm not sure what you mean - are you essentially building an alcove? Again, still doesn't need to be a masonary flue - same idea as my last post applies.

Do some research into what is actually involved in building a fully code compliant masonary flue - not just one that most masons build, but one that meets solid fuel code and a building inspector would approve, and see what you think.

To answer your question - the prefered design for a chimney is covered in building codes. Opinions vary, code doesn't.

 

[southbalto]

yea, that's what I'll probably do.

My dad is semi-retired and looking for projects. So the all masonry chimney wouldn't really be all that big of a deal. I'm in a house that I'll be in for the next 30 years or so and I just want a rock solid stove/chimney setup.

 

[southbalto]

Well, I've got a prefab fireplace that just hangs off the side of the house at the moment. I'd like to go with masonry because doing so will allow me to push the stove out of the room somewhat. The stove will sit 8" or so out of the house and out of the living room.

I'm not sure what you mean - are you essentially building an alcove? Again, still doesn't need to be a masonary flue - same idea as my last post applies.

Do some research into what is actually involved in building a fully code compliant masonary flue - not just one that most masons build, but one that meets solid fuel code and a building inspector would approve, and see what you think.

To answer your question - the prefered design for a chimney is covered in building codes. Opinions vary, code doesn't.

/thread

 

[pyro68]

EPA wood fireplaces are essentially wood stoves built into a zero clearance box. Check out the 36 & 44 Elites at www. fireplacex.com also the Z-42 on
www.kozyheat.com. Security also makes some great units in the BIS line. If you want to get into serious heat with a fireplace look these products are worth checking out.

 

[cyclone]

I just built a masonary chimney and have had some problems which I will not get into.


Here are some of my suggestions.

1. It seems everyone is using a stainless liner. Something to look into first.

2. I have the 6inch square clay flues. I recommend you use 7 inch round clay flues. Better draft and more durable.

3. Make sure you get your materials from a reputable dealer.

4. When purchasing you go and get the materials. Take your tape measure and measure each clay flu and take the one's you want. Also the chimney block. Takes time but well worth it.

5. Check on the codes of where you live. Mortar for the blocks and mortar for the flues per code are different. Flue mortar is a heat resistant mortar up to 2000 degrees. Rutland makes it it is called heat stop and iti s a premixed refractory cement.

6. The last stage when installing a chimney cap or if you build your own crown Check out construction and installation. If you do a search on cracked chimney you can see what can happen when not installed properly. The search will show you my chimney cap which is prefab that should have been sealed with something flexible around the void between the flu and the cap. It was not and it did not allow for expansion and contraction, result harline cracks.

7. Take your time and measure everything.....