Question on gravel storage area

[Shari]

Two parts to this one:

1. I already have a nice, level wood storage area (about 20'x20') that we leveled out with 3/4" traffic bond. I like this type of gravel because I can rake up wood droppings very easily. This established area is high and dry.

2. I am in process of establishing another wood storage area (16'x24') that has a slight downward slope and is the 'low' area of our lot which also accumulates drainage from the adjacent city lots. I've already got some number 2 stone in this area to try to level out the slope. A landscaper was here yesterday to give me a quote on hauling in about 4 more cu yards of stone to finish out the leveling. He suggested staying with the number 2 stone - saying this would create a dryer surface. I am stacking on pallets so don't know that I would like the #2 stone for the storage surface because as I said I do like being able to rake out wood droppings and the existing 20'x20' area is traffic bond which rakes nicely.

Price difference between #2 and traffic bond is not an issue.

What's your comment: Stay with traffic bond or go with #2 stone?

Shari

 

[Mike PA]

I think for the stacking issue, you are right, there would be no need for the #2 and raking the #2 stone won't be as easy and the stone has a tendacy to slowly migrate from where you put it, making it a possible mowing issue. But, depending on the overall drainage and the fact that you are in a low area, the #2 may be better in that you would likely have less standing water. I don't know if that would be an issue for you or not, so it is something to consider given your drainage conditions. If ponding is a concern, you may be better off with a slight grade to your new area to allow water to naturally run off.

 

[Shari]

Thanks for the reply, Mike, the east-west line (24' section) of this storage area is the current low spot which will be raised about 12" to get it up and out of the wet area. Does this info help any?

Here's a picture if it helps:

The 24' line starts about 6' behind the shed and runs roughly to the lower right corner of the photo. You probably can see the riding mower tire tracks in the 'wet' area.

The 16' line runs from left to right from about where the tree is (was, it's down now) which will create a right angle to the above 24' line.

The entire new gravel area will be outlined with interlocking landscape stone to contain whatever gravel is used.

EDIT: This new storage area will be over the septic leech bed which is no longer in service. You see the bleeder pipe in the photo, that pipe has been removed due to city sewer being installed.

EDIT #2: Just realized - the shed has been repainted since the photo!

Shari

 

[nate379]

I use D1 road base for all my stuff. It's $15 for a truck load, my truck can haul about 2 yards. I would guess that would be able the same as your 3/4" mix... just D1 is 1" and under.

I am building a 16x20 shed, and the pad it's on is that D1. I compacted it before building the base of the shed and it was nearly as hard as concrete.

 

[firefighterjake]

I see the shed . . . but where's the boat full of wood?

Oh yeah . . . another vote to stick with what has worked for you.

 

[ironpony]

from the photo it still appears this area is higher than the tire tracks
if this is the case I would go with the road base to seal the area
which should be sloped to drain to the low point
2's are a true pain in the *** they always seem to wind up where you dont want them
we call them ankle busters around here, amongst other things
yopu seem to have the right plan

 

[Shari]

Ironpony: Yes, the majority of the area is higher but will run almost parallel to the tire tracks. That track area was ugly: Leech bed and surface drainage made it ugly. The leech bed is no longer in use so 1/2 the problem is gone. Let me tell you, even using a power auger digging the post holes for the future fence was NOT nice. Of course we hit the old drain tile when digging the post holes which jammed up the auger, pull auger out, reach in the yucky hole to bring out broken pieces of drain tile, etc. (you get the picture). We did leave the leech line alone for about 6 months after it was no longer in use hoping it was dry out a little. And that what it did: dry out just a little.

I think we have inherent dowsing abilities in our family: Tell any one of us there is something buried underground and you must not hit it - and we will hit it.

Shari

 

[Wood Duck]

If you have laready put some #2 stone in the low area, I think the other stuff will be OK to use on top. The gravel supplier is probably right - the #2 stone would be drier - but I think the mix you have used before will be dry enough with the #2 beneath.

 

[SolarAndWood]

That looks like it is downhill of the house? I would be inclined to #2 it to keep the water moving downhill. Maybe, throw some road base on top of the #2 for compaction/wood clean up?

 

[Shari]

That looks like it is downhill of the house? I would be inclined to #2 it to keep the water moving downhill. Maybe, throw some road base on top of the #2 for compaction/wood clean up?

Yes, it is downhill or rather downslope slightly from the house but there is about 90 foot from the house and we will be doing a minor change in the downspouts on the house which will further divert water from draining into the storage area.

I think I'll stick with the traffic bond for the rest of the stone. Having grandkids and #2 stone doesn't sound like a good idea come to think of it.

Shari

 

[billb3]

the #2 might make more sense if you were or where you are constantly standing in puddles .

I've got #2 on top of base for my driveway.
Really nice for dry shoes while it is raining and or there are puddles.
I have to be careful which way I aim the snow thrower chute when maneuvering over them.

Not that I don't pick up some tiny base stones, they just have a tendency to 'ting' off windows.


the larger stones make sense to locate a shed on - even a parking spot.

But a work area gets a bit tough on the feet and can be a bit tougher to keep looking nice - if that's a concern or aim.

Base can have a tendency to puddle when packed, so you might have to do a little raking / grading if / when it gets bad enough.

Or do what I did and start putting #2 stones in the puddles and low spots and eventually rake them over everything and kinda wish I hadn't.

 

[Mike PA]

I think your traffic bond idea will work fine. It should pack together well and help provide a good base. You may notice a little more puddling with this than #2, but overall, it should stay in place better and will be good for foot traffic. My concern about water ponding there doesn't seem valid, given the slope of the land and the amount you will build up. I'm curious why your landscaper wanted to use #2 (less labor?). I think I would consider tamping the traffic bond in place to help limit later settling.

 

[Tony H]

Alot of the drives and such around here they start with #2 for the first 4 inches and then add 2-4 " of road rock on top .

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Two parts to this one:

1. I already have a nice, level wood storage area (about 20'x20') That is 400 sq ft. That's just over 12 cord if you stack it only 4' high. 18 if you stack it 6' high. that we leveled out with 3/4" traffic bond. I like this type of gravel because I can rake up wood droppings very easily. This established area is high and dry.

2. I am in process of establishing another wood storage area (16'x24') That is an additional 384 sq ft which will hold an additional 12 cord at 4' that has a slight downward slope and is the 'low' area of our lot which also accumulates drainage from the adjacent city lots. I've already got some number 2 stone in this area to try to level out the slope. A landscaper was here yesterday to give me a quote on hauling in about 4 more cu yards of stone to finish out the leveling. He suggested staying with the number 2 stone - saying this would create a dryer surface. I am stacking on pallets so don't know that I would like the #2 stone for the storage surface because as I said I do like being able to rake out wood droppings and the existing 20'x20' area is traffic bond which rakes nicely.

Price difference between #2 and traffic bond is not an issue.

What's your comment: Stay with traffic bond or go with #2 stone?

Shari

We're talking at least 24 cord, more like 36.

Here's what I wanna know - where are you getting all this wood? And who is stacking it for you?

Who?

WHO?

 

[Shari]

Two parts to this one:

1. I already have a nice, level wood storage area (about 20'x20') That is 400 sq ft. That's just over 12 cord if you stack it only 4' high. 18 if you stack it 6' high. that we leveled out with 3/4" traffic bond. I like this type of gravel because I can rake up wood droppings very easily. This established area is high and dry.

2. I am in process of establishing another wood storage area (16'x24') That is an additional 384 sq ft which will hold an additional 12 cord at 4' that has a slight downward slope and is the 'low' area of our lot which also accumulates drainage from the adjacent city lots. I've already got some number 2 stone in this area to try to level out the slope. A landscaper was here yesterday to give me a quote on hauling in about 4 more cu yards of stone to finish out the leveling. He suggested staying with the number 2 stone - saying this would create a dryer surface. I am stacking on pallets so don't know that I would like the #2 stone for the storage surface because as I said I do like being able to rake out wood droppings and the existing 20'x20' area is traffic bond which rakes nicely.

Price difference between #2 and traffic bond is not an issue.

What's your comment: Stay with traffic bond or go with #2 stone?

Shari

We're talking at least 24 cord, more like 36.

Here's what I wanna know - where are you getting all this wood? And who is stacking it for you?

Who?

WHO?

Ah, Bigg-Redd, you did the math! Actually, there will be 2' walkways between each 40" wide row. This new area will become my 'drying' area -gotta leave that 2' for good air flow. I also have a 20'x20' area which I am currently using for all the 'seasoned' stuff.

Where am I getting all this wood? Well, be nice to people and it seems to almost pile itself into my trailer. Then I have to haul it home, split and stack it. Hubby helps a little (sometimes as little as possible ) but the stacking is all my job - I find stacking therapeutic.

Shari