Question regarding venting.

[jkhat02]

I have a Wonderwood Legacy 3000 that I want to install in my basement. There is an existing penetration in my brick wall about 12 inches below my highly combustible floor joists. After I vent through this hole it is approximately 12 feet to the eaves of my roof. Do I need to vent several feet above the eaves of my house? Is there some sort of kit that might be useful? I plan on using double wall stove pipe with a heat shield inside but am having trouble figuring out how to handle the outside chimney for proper drafting. Any ideas for cost savings would also be nice. Thanks

 

[LLigetfa]

...outside chimney for proper drafting.

I think that's what is called an oxymoron. Outside SS chimneys generally don't draft well. Creosote tends to settle in the Tee where it's prone to ignite.

regardless of where you penetrate the roof, you need to be at least 2 feet higher that any part of the roof within 10 feet of the chimney. If you have a 12/12 pitch roof, you would have to be 12 feet above the roof.

 

[firefighterjake]

...outside chimney for proper drafting.

I think that's what is called an oxymoron. Outside SS chimneys generally don't draft well. Creosote tends to settle in the Tee where it's prone to ignite.

regardless of where you penetrate the roof, you need to be at least 2 feet higher that any part of the roof within 10 feet of the chimney. If you have a 12/12 pitch roof, you would have to be 12 feet above the roof.

I have to admit that due to time and building construction I was pretty much limited to an outside chimney . . . well either that or doing some serious remodeling (and plumbing) in the house to make an inside chimney.

I had read about outside stainless steel chimneys not drafting well and buggering up somewhat with creosote due to the cold . . . and so it was with some trepidation that I had the SS chimney installed.

My set up: Double wall stovepipe run directly out of the top of the Oslo, 45 degree turn to a short piece of double wall pipe and thimble and then to a T-outside and then 20-24 feet of insulated stainless steel chimney running along the outside wall.

After running it since October I am pleased to say I have not been disappointed. The draft is excellent . . . no problems even in windy conditions (although when it's really, really windy out you can tell since the flames move about a bit).

I was a bit concerned about creosote build up, but once again this has been a non-issue. As a born again burner I have been checking and cleaning out the chimney every month but honestly things are getting better and better as I burn (this last time I ended up with less creosote than I had in the first few months combined.) As you have noted there is some creosote that gets deposited in the bottom of the T . . . but less than half a cup if that.

I know it may also be vain . . . but I also didn't like the idea of the shiny metal running up alongside the side of the house . . . but while I may still build a chimney chase around the chimney I will also admit that due to the layout of the house you really can't see much of the chimney from the road or front yard except for where it rises above the roof-line.

And so . . . while I was very concerned I have either been very lucky, the chimney sweep who installed the chimney did an excellent job, concerns over these types of chimneys may be a non-issue or perhaps a combination of all of these factors since draft and creosote is a non-issue with me.

On the positive side . . . cleaning out the actual chimney is wicked easy with the T being outside. I unscrew three screws and from the ground run the brush up to the cap. While I cannot clean the cap very well (although a few easy taps does dislodge some loose creosote . . . and I have continued to keep a close eye on the cap for excessive creosote build up) cleaning this way is very quick and easy and not much of a chore.