Question.............

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WoodMann

Minister of Fire
Feb 9, 2008
670
New Mexico
How many of you wear your chaps to the bar? No no- really. Per sharpening the chain on the saw, we all know that a file on site is the best thing. But getting to the point when most fols take the chain in to the shop to get the angle correct again, I was looking to get a similair device for the bench so I wouldn't hafta make the day trip into town. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what a device is called and where I might get one...............
 
Stihl sells a really nice bench-mount file guide system that does a really good job. Similar products can be had from other sources, though I can't vouch for their quality. Electric grinders are nice, too, though the decent ones are $250+. However, if you're OK buying Chinese goods, the Oregon knock-off grinder that NorthernTool sells can be made to be pretty good if you swap wheels for good ones (Bailey's or Oregon-brand), polish pivot/rotation surfaces on the grinder, and otherwise finish the detail work that the Chinese factory neglected to do themselves.

At my house everything gets sharpened on the grinder (Oregon 511A), and only very rarely do I sharpen with a file with the chain on the saw.
 
Wow- just looked at that Oregon 511- $299! guess I'll keep scopin' out ebay. Thanks- I have a much better idea what I'm lookin' for now. Guess on my next foray into town I'll stop by the STiHL store and see what they're using..........................

P.S. here some of my latest finds, whaddya think;

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ELECTRIC-CH...ryZ20791QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ELECTRIC-CHAINS...ryZ85915QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/HD-5300-RPM-CHA...ryZ85915QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/PRO-ELECTRIC-CH...ryZ85915QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
go to arborist site and search on sharpeners.
general consensus seems that the $90-100 NorthernTool one is good and can be made better with detailing.
The $40 HarborFreight one (likely the same as the ebay one you saw) is POS plastic that has too much flex in it even if the tolerances and slop are shimmed out.
 
I'll check'em out, never thought of flex being a factor. Thanks guys. Now about the chaps...................
 
I have a Granberg File-N-Joint Precision Filing Guide for sale.... I never really figured out how to use it and bought the Nothern Tool knock-off electric grinder - as much as I hated to. Why couldn't the Italian brand "just" be twice as expensive? Anyways, PM me if you're interested in it. It's collecting dust.

https://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15200
 
The Pferd hand filer works well, files the rakers simultaneously. I rotate about 8 chains, do about 5 hand sharpenings and then switch chains. When all chains are switched out, I sharpen all of them equally on the Northern Tool machine. It does a good job, and at about $130 including shipping, it paid 1/3 of the cost on my first chain sharpening round.
 
hi everyone got mine from harbor frieght its cheap i paid under 40 bucks with shipping thing works great chains sharper then when i had the dealer do it just my opinion
 
Hi,

In the UK here. We use the Stihl file holder which has the correct angles and settings for the chain you are using and the filing guide which sets the correct depth of cut on the rakers. Together with a flat file this comes in its own canvas tool roll at around £12 here -$25 to you. I always carry this on to jobs and sharpen as needed. To get the right heights on ALL the cutters you need to measure each one from front to back, find the shortest, sharpen it, then sharpen all other cutters to this length, then refile the rakers - the saw will cut perfectly straight then and much better - like new in fact. One more thing, when you file a cutter the metal forms a fine burr, you should tap this burr off with your file handle as it can result in a little bit quicker wear, Happy sharpening!
One tip, buy a little field vice. Oregon and Stihl make tiny clamps which have points in their base, You knock the clamp into a piece of timber ( there'll be some near you I'm guessing!) and you clamp the bar in this. It makes it a lot easier,

regards

2Old2Climb
 
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