RE: All wheel drive question

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I would share that link with your mechanic. lots of good info there. I used to tow subarus off the road in the 90's redo headgasket jobs all the time. Not the best job to have done at a flat rate shop its best done by an independent jobber with the right knowledge applied.
 
A car that overheats can only be a few things and we've mentioned them all. Unless a gremlin now lives in the engine, it has to be one of them.
I worked as an auto mechanic for 15 years and can recall other things that caused overheating such as an obstruction somewhere, a defective water pump where the impeller spins on the shaft, collapsed lower radiator hoses, thermostats installed backwards, bad cooling fan switches; even excessively lean burning engines.
 
But I think we mentioned all of those already, didn't we? I am sure we did..7 pages later.
I thought I was keeping up with this thread pretty well -- maybe not.
I don't recall seeing any on the things I listed being mentioned elsewhere. Someone mentioned a bad water pump but usually they usually fail through leaking not a spinning impeller. I saw a hot upper radiator hose mentioned but not a collapsed lower hose ,and so on.
In any case, I love a good mystery and hope to hear what the problem turns out to be.
 
A clogged Cat will cause troubles. This too is mentioned in the link provided.
 
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The bad cat is VERY common on Subaru's.... I've heard of jumping the rear O2 sensor with a certain resistor for troubleshooting this issue.....
 
The bad cat is VERY common on Subaru's.... I've heard of jumping the rear O2 sensor with a certain resistor for troubleshooting this issue.....
Never heard that before. O2 sensors produce a low voltage so this surprises me.
 
New question . . . in looking at Mazda I see they have a 0% APR for 60 months option.

Now I realize that this is typically only for folks with really good credit . . . and fortunately we would undoubtedly qualify.

However, there were a few questions.

It states that the amount of down payment and other factors may affect qualification . . . would this mean they would want more or less money as a down payment . . . do you think?

And here is the real million dollar question that has stymied me . . . "60 months at $16.67 per month per $1,000 financed with $0 down. What does this mean exactly? Does it mean I would pay $16.67 every month on top of the usual payment . . . or $16.67 for every $1,000 I financed every month? Math is not my forte . . . so treat me as if you were dealing with a simpleton. In fact, let's use a relatively simple example -- let's say the car's purchase price is $25,000 and I put down $5,000 down as a down payment (although truthfully I usually put more down). So I would need a loan for $20,000 . . . what additional money would I be paying every month on top of the repayment amount? Maybe I'm just completely confused, but it seems like what the car company is saying is that there is no interest charge . . . but you'll still be paying a hefty chunk of money every month as an additional charge.
 
New question . . . in looking at Mazda I see they have a 0% APR for 60 months option.

Now I realize that this is typically only for folks with really good credit . . . and fortunately we would undoubtedly qualify.

However, there were a few questions.

It states that the amount of down payment and other factors may affect qualification . . . would this mean they would want more or less money as a down payment . . . do you think?

Yes, they probably will want 20% or even 30% down. Too many people these days put little or nothing down on new cars, and even roll in debt from underwater trades. (" We will pay off your trade no matter how much you owe! Come on down! yea right... ;) )


And here is the real million dollar question that has stymied me . . . "60 months at $16.67 per month per $1,000 financed with $0 down. What does this mean exactly? Does it mean I would pay $16.67 every month on top of the usual payment . . . or $16.67 for every $1,000 I financed every month? Math is not my forte . . . so treat me as if you were dealing with a simpleton. In fact, let's use a relatively simple example -- let's say the car's purchase price is $25,000 and I put down $5,000 down as a down payment (although truthfully I usually put more down). So I would need a loan for $20,000 . . . what additional money would I be paying every month on top of the repayment amount? Maybe I'm just completely confused, but it seems like what the car company is saying is that there is no interest charge . . . but you'll still be paying a hefty chunk of money every month as an additional charge.


When you see language like this in a financing ad, it literally means what it says. For every $1000 you finance the monthly payment (total of principle, interest, fees) will be $16.67.

$1000 / 60 months = $16.67 per month.

So yes this really is zero percent. If you finance 20k it would be 20 x $16.67/month = $333.33 /month for 60 months.

Sometimes lenders will sneak in fees above and beyond the simple interest rate and the xx per month per 1000 financed wont add up to the number you got if you plug it into a financial calculator. I believe the rules require then to put that statement in so that cant hide stuff like that.

If you go with other finance optiosn and need to check the numbers here is a simple auto loan calculator you can use: http://www.dinkytown.net/java/AutoLoan.html
Or if they make you choose between zero interest or a cash rebate use this to check the numbers: http://www.dinkytown.net/java/AutoRebate.html


Zero percent financing, if legit, is the one time I wouldn't bother to put much down and finance as much as you can for as long as you can. Just leave the money in mutual funds and make it work for you.

Question to ask is are they making the profit back somewhere else in the deal? Zero is not the going rate everywhere right now... when I bought my truck the best Toyota would offer was 2.5% and we have 800+ credit. I managed to score 1.6% through a credit union but had to fight for a rate extension as even they have bumped rates into the 2s.


Suggest you get a truecar price report on the car you are looking at so you know they are not sneaking the finance cost into the deal someplace else. And make sure to not let them sell you extras like dealer warranties either.
 
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. . .


When you see language like this in a financing ad, it literally means what it says. For every $1000 you finance the monthly payment (total of principle, interest, fees) will be $16.67.

$1000 / 60 months = $16.67 per month.

So yes this really is zero percent. If you finance 20k it would be 20 x $16.67/month = $333.33 /month for 60 months.

. . ..

So if I'm reading what you wrote correctly . . . on my hypothetical loan . . . and it really is just hypothetical . . . I would be paying $333.33 each month in addition to paying off the principal loan amount?

If this is the case, suddenly the 0% APR coupled with the $16.67 each month doesn't sound like a very good deal at all.
 
So if I'm reading what you wrote correctly . . . on my hypothetical loan . . . and it really is just hypothetical . . . I would be paying $333.33 each month in addition to paying off the principal loan amount?

If this is the case, suddenly the 0% APR coupled with the $16.67 each month doesn't sound like a very good deal at all.


No no thats the total payment including principle repayment. the deal you where offered really is zero interest zero fees. Whenever a finance add quotes $ per month per 1000 financed its the all in amount.


Give you another example. Say the loan had a 5% APR. Using a loan calculator I get a figure of $18.87 per month for 60 months per $1000 financed. Thats the same $16.67 of principle repayment and approx $2 of interest.


Lets say you saw an ad that offered 5% APR and then also stated $20 per month for 60 months per $1000 financed. Using the math above we know the principle + interest amount should only be 18.87 so we know this one snuck some undisclosed fees in.
 
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No no thats the total payment including principle repayment. the deal you where offered really is zero interest zero fees. Whenever a finance add quotes $ per month per 1000 financed its the all in amount.


Give you another example. Say the loan had a 5% APR. Using a loan calculator I get a figure of $18.87 per month for 60 months per $1000 financed. Thats the same $16.67 of principle repayment and approx $2 of interest.


Lets say you saw an ad that offered 5% APR and then also stated $20 per month for 60 months per $1000 financed. Using the math above we know the principle + interest amount should only be 18.87 so we know this one snuck some undisclosed fees in.

OK . . . I think I get it now. Then 0% offers are truly good even with the $16.67 per $1,000 per month mentioned . . . I mean to say paying an extra $333 in the case of the hypothetical numbers I threw out really is a pittance compared vs. paying on a loan with an interest rate.

As you mentioned though . . . the real question is who qualifies for that 0% and if there are any other fees tacked on or not. Thanks for explaining things.
 
Now an update on the Subaru . . . spoke at length with the mechanic at work who suggested that I use an IR thermo to see what the radiator and radiator hoses look like.

This morning started the car up cold after filling up with water (mostly since it keeps puking out whatever I put in it). Within 2-3 miles it was starting to climb above normal and within 3-4 miles it was spiking in the red zone.

Used the IR thermo: upper radiator hose was in the 170s, lower radiator hose was in the 80s, radiator cap was in the 180s and the entire radiator (scanned top to bottom and side to side from the front) showed temps in the 70s. Based on this the mechanic suggested I undo the radiator hoses and run a hose through to see if the incoming flow closely matches the outgoing flow or if it seems constricted in any way as he has suggested it may be a plugged radiator.
 
Now an update on the Subaru . . . spoke at length with the mechanic at work who suggested that I use an IR thermo to see what the radiator and radiator hoses look like.

This morning started the car up cold after filling up with water (mostly since it keeps puking out whatever I put in it). Within 2-3 miles it was starting to climb above normal and within 3-4 miles it was spiking in the red zone.

Used the IR thermo: upper radiator hose was in the 170s, lower radiator hose was in the 80s, radiator cap was in the 180s and the entire radiator (scanned top to bottom and side to side from the front) showed temps in the 70s. Based on this the mechanic suggested I undo the radiator hoses and run a hose through to see if the incoming flow closely matches the outgoing flow or if it seems constricted in any way as he has suggested it may be a plugged radiator.
Definitely sounds like poor flow. Little else would cause it to overheat that quickly.
So obstruction, bad thermostat, or water pump not actually moving water.
 
OK . . . I think I get it now. Then 0% offers are truly good even with the $16.67 per $1,000 per month mentioned . . . I mean to say paying an extra $333 in the case of the hypothetical numbers I threw out really is a pittance compared vs. paying on a loan with an interest rate.

As you mentioned though . . . the real question is who qualifies for that 0% and if there are any other fees tacked on or not. Thanks for explaining things.


Just to make sure we are on the same page - the $333 figure I tossed out is what the total monthly payment would be for a 20,000 loan at 0% for 60 months. $333 a month above and beyond the principle would be enormous on a 20k note.

Otherwise, you got it. The $ per month per 1k financed statement they have to put in there is your way of validating that the APR quoted is legit and they aren't sneaking any fees in anywhere.

I looked at the MazdaUSA site and I see the 0% offer you mentioned on the 2,5, 6, CX. It looks completely legit and its coming direct from the manufacturer so you should not have to worry its a trick from the dealer that they will make up elsewhere.


What I would watch out for, if its a less than honest dealer, is for them to try the old negotiate on monthly payment tactic and inflate the sales price to take advantage of that 0% rate and still show a low payment. You know the drill Im sure - research, negotiate a fair price first and then talk financing.
 
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Just to make sure we are on the same page - the $333 figure I tossed out is what the total monthly payment would be for a 20,000 loan at 0% for 60 months. $333 a month above and beyond the principle would be enormous on a 20k note.

Otherwise, you got it. The $ per month per 1k financed statement they have to put in there is your way of validating that the APR quoted is legit and they aren't sneaking any fees in anywhere.

I looked at the MazdaUSA site and I see the 0% offer you mentioned on the 2,5, 6, CX. It looks completely legit and its coming direct from the manufacturer so you should not have to worry its a trick from the dealer that they will make up elsewhere.


What I would watch out for, if its a less than honest dealer, is for them to try the old negotiate on monthly payment tactic and inflate the sales price to take advantage of that 0% rate and still show a low payment. You know the drill Im sure - research, negotiate a fair price first and then talk financing.

Yup . . . price first after I know what the invoice price is (approximately) and then negotiate with that number in mind, bearing in mind that they may recoup any loss in invoice price with any holdback as well as future service visits. Financing is figured in separately . . . well actually I go in with a good financing rate pre-approval in hand . . . but wait to see if they can beat the rate as they sometimes can and do . . . which may be the case of Mazda.

Right now . . . without having even test driven any cars . . . I am looking heavily at Mazda as the CX-5 gets very good reviews (and great safety ratings) along with the 0% APR . . . and Subaru because my wife still loves her Subaru and she qualifies for the 2% discount off the invoice with her affiliation with the ASPCA. In the end it may come down to the test drive and which manufacturer offers the best deal.
 
Definately run the Truecar price report on the model you want and bring that. I did a lot of research and bought/read the Consumer Reports new car buying guide for this year before buying the truck (tossed it out or id have offered to mail it to 'ya for the cost of postage) and learned that these days dealers make a hefty profit even selling at invoice... There are a lot more factory to dealer incentives beyond just the holdback.

On some cars you can even buy under invoice and they still make out well.

Good luck Jake!
 
The CX-5 is a really nice handling vehicle. Take it out on the highway and push into the corners. It is one of the better handling mini CUVs IMO.... some have found road noise higher than some competitors but mine is fairly quiet. I have a fully decked '15 CX-5 Grand Touring AWD with the OEM 19's.

We were going to purchase outright but Mazda had the same 0% deal back in July so paid half and financed the rest for 5 years but will just pay off in 2 or so. All paperwork clearly shows 0% and we got a great deal IMO. Our credit is like 825 but I think they will give the deal to anyone over 725. I used the Consumer Reports #s and they even gave us the dealer holdback that was around $500. You should be shooting for $2000-$2500 off of MSRP.

I'm happy with mileage. We took fully loaded inside and a bunch of stuff on rear carrier on 250 mile roundtrip to cabin labor day weekend. Between stop and go traffic, going over mountain pass and then 80 MPH back we got 28MPG. Flat road cruise control you can probably push it up to 32 MPG if you keep your foot out of the pedal. I'd recommend getting a model with the 2.5L versus the 2.0L.

EDIT: Like jharken says they probably still made money on us but I didn't feel taken so all is well.

I usually do my own maintenance and it seems to be an incredibly easy vehicle to work on. It also uses a timing chain in the motor.
 
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Definately run the Truecar price report on the model you want and bring that. I did a lot of research and bought/read the Consumer Reports new car buying guide for this year before buying the truck (tossed it out or id have offered to mail it to 'ya for the cost of postage) and learned that these days dealers make a hefty profit even selling at invoice... There are a lot more factory to dealer incentives beyond just the holdback.

On some cars you can even buy under invoice and they still make out well.

Good luck Jake!

True car ... nada ... KBB ... consumer reports and a few other sources as well to give me an idea of prices for invoices and other info. And yeah ... I figure the dealership is still making a profit when they sell at invoice with incentives and holdback, but I have no issue with that ... they're not a non profit and still need to make money ... I don't necessarily want to pay top dollar is all.
So far with two quotes from Subaru they were both below invoice ...
 
The CX-5 is a really nice handling vehicle. Take it out on the highway and push into the corners. It is one of the better handling mini CUVs IMO.... some have found road noise higher than some competitors but mine is fairly quiet. I have a fully decked '15 CX-5 Grand Touring AWD with the OEM 19's.

We were going to purchase outright but Mazda had the same 0% deal back in July so paid half and financed the rest for 5 years but will just pay off in 2 or so. All paperwork clearly shows 0% and we got a great deal IMO. Our credit is like 825 but I think they will give the deal to anyone over 725. I used the Consumer Reports #s and they even gave us the dealer holdback that was around $500. You should be shooting for $2000-$2500 off of MSRP.

I'm happy with mileage. We took fully loaded inside and a bunch of stuff on rear carrier on 250 mile roundtrip to cabin labor day weekend. Between stop and go traffic, going over mountain pass and then 80 MPH back we got 28MPG. Flat road cruise control you can probably push it up to 32 MPG if you keep your foot out of the peddle. I'd recommend getting a model with the 2.5L versus the 2.0L.

EDIT: Like jharken says they probably still made money on us but I didn't feel taken so all is well.

I usually do my own maintenance and it seems to be an incredibly easy vehicle to work on. It also uses a timing chain in the motor.

Good to know about the zero financing ... and yeah ... the handling, gas mileage and safety of the cx 5 was one reason I wanted to take a closer look at the Mazda ...with the larger engine.
 
Been soliciting "bids" for the aforementioned Rogue, CX-5 and Subaru.

Sadly, only one Mazda dealership in all of Maine seems to be carrying the type of CX-5 I am looking at -- the base model with AWD (the few dealerships that carry the base model . . . and there are only a few . . . all seem to have just FWD). In addition that one dealership has shot me a figure that is only $750 or so off MSRP (not that I go by the MSRP . . . I actually use the invoice as my starting point).

In comparison two Nissan dealers are offering much better equipped Rogues at the same price point and have knocked over $2,000 off the MSRP . . . and the Subaru dealerships have had a 2-4% discount off the invoice ($1,300-$2,000 off MSRP).

Now I only have to get my wife into the dealerships to test drive them . . . I tell ya . . . this wife of mine hates to spend money almost as much as she hates shopping for cars. Now me, on the other hand . . . well, this is pure, unadulterated joy in doing the research, negotiating, etc.
 
We have had Jeep Grand Cherokees with full time 4WD since 1999. Jeeps kept getting smaller and we switched to a Honda Pilot with AWD because we needed more space. Last winter was tough for ice and snow around here and I never felt the Honda wasn't up to the task.
 
Thought I would give an update . . .

I've tried a few things now . . . even resorting to the infamous magical mechanic in a can (i.e. Bar's Leak for head gasket failures). Thought I caught a break for a bit as the car was starting to run right, blew heat, temp was great . . . and then two or three miles down the road I lost the heat and the Subaru started overheating . . . d'oh.

Learned a few things along the way . . . such as the fact that using that ol' trick of blowing heat and removing the thermostat . . . doesn't work so well on this car as the thermostat has an o-ring . . . watched a whole lot of stuff pour out after re-installing the radiator hose without the thermostat . . . d'oh.

In any case, I'm throwing in the proverbial towel. I really think it may be the head gasket or cracked head . . . but honestly at this point I don't really want to throw any more money at the car so I took some pics and posted an ad on Uncle Henrys and Craigslist. I put up a figure thinking it would be good for the condition of the car . . . perhaps too good . . . I had four or five serious inquiries within the first half hour or so . . . and not a single one asking me if I would take $300 and guns or a 1985 Skidoo in trade.

Hopefully the ol' Subaru will soon find a new home and an owner who can fix 'er up and keep it on the road.

In the meantime it looks like my wife cannot resist the siren's song of the Subaru as she has pretty much said she will like a Subaru . . . of some sort (I personally liked the Mazda CX-5, but I'm not the one driving this car most of the time.) She tried the XV and it was OK -- I found it to be a bit cheap feeling in terms of fit and finish (at least the underside of the hood is now being painted and not just primed) and there was a wicked twitch to the steering wheel.

The Outback is a bit pricey for our blood . . . she has expressed some interest however in looking at the new Legacy. Trying one of these out this afternoon . . . possibly.
 
I have a 2009 forester for sale with 55,000 miles black auto 4 snows on car and 4 new all seasons go with it.
 
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