Re: Clearances . . . yes . . . they really are important to pay attention to when heating with woods

[firefighterjake]

http://bangordailynews.com/2011/11/...ily-of-six-loses-home-in-sunday-morning-fire/

In fairness . . . I'm just assuming the cardboard box full of firewood was too close to the wood cookstove . . . there is always the possibility that an ember or unnoticed hot coal rolled up or into the cardboard box . . . but if I was a betting man I would guess it may have been placed too close to the woodstove.

 

[jimbom]

Our local area has already had the first of the annual 'homes destroyed by fire' caused by careless wood burners. It is a terrible shame, but a difficult problem. The local volunteer fire department conducts annual training with a specially constructed trailer concerning life safety in a fire and how to make sure your property is safe. Every child in school goes through the training also. Yet each year, people lose their homes and some years lose their lives.

 

[shawneyboy]

Yep I bet your right Jake. Sad to hear/see stories like this. Worst part is they are far to common.


Shawn

 

[joecool85]

That's why we made our hearth so it goes all the way out to the end of the combustible zone, then we put a gate around it. Unless someone is putting combustible items inside the gate, we're good to go. You have to be safe with fire, I'm not sure where people think it's a good idea to have cardboard and/or firewood close to a stove. A guy I work with keeps a wooden box full of nice dry splits BEHIND his wood stove, I'd say maybe 6" away from the back of it...The only combustibles inside my hearth area are the splits in the log storage area under my stove.

Glad everyone is ok, and hopefully people learn from their mistake.

 

[fire_man]

This is why I am ripping up a Hearth that has an R value of 0.36 and replacing with with R value of 0.40. It might not sound like much, but that's what the new stove calls for so that's what I'm gonna do.

 

[joecool85]

This is why I am ripping up a Hearth that has an R value of 0.36 and replacing with with R value of 0.40. It might not sound like much, but that's what the new stove calls for so that's what I'm gonna do.

It might make sense to go for an even 0.5R as that would give you more safety now plus the option of a different stove later.

 

[48rob]

The local volunteer fire department conducts annual training with a specially constructed trailer concerning life safety in a fire and how to make sure your property is safe. Every child in school goes through the training also.

Maybe this is part of the problem?

The kids understand, but how are they supposed to convince mom and dad that they are doing it wrong...

Really though, unless big brother takes over and requires all wood burners to take an annual safety class (not something I'm suggesting) there will always be those lacking in common sense.
The one who are concerned seek out help and advice from places like this forum in an effort to be sure they are doing it "right".

Rob

 

[fire_man]

This is why I am ripping up a Hearth that has an R value of 0.36 and replacing with with R value of 0.40. It might not sound like much, but that's what the new stove calls for so that's what I'm gonna do.

It might make sense to go for an even 0.5R as that would give you more safety now plus the option of a different stove later.

My wife would kill me if there were another new stove. My plan is to use Durock Next Generation (Hopefully HD carries it). It's R=.39 . Add =.10 for 1/2 inch brick and I am up to .49. I am slightly tempted to look for
Micore and go overboard, but I hear its hard to find.

 

[Waulie]

I am slightly tempted to look for
Micore and go overboard, but I hear its hard to find.

I was looking into this too for my hearth rebuild. In addition to being hard to find, you would still need a suitable base for your brick. I don't think you would want to put your brick directly on Micore. So, you end up with an extra 1/2" of height and a crazy high R-value which you would likely never need.

 

[fire_man]

I am slightly tempted to look for
Micore and go overboard, but I hear its hard to find.

I was looking into this too for my hearth rebuild. In addition to being hard to find, you would still need a suitable base for your brick. I don't think you would want to put your brick directly on Micore. So, you end up with an extra 1/2" of height and a crazy high R-value which you would likely never need.

I wondered about laying tile or brick directly on Micore. Is it too soft and not a rigid enough base? If that's the case it just answered a ton of questions about building up my hearth to higher R values. The best I can get and stay flush with the original hearth is 1/2" Durock Next Generation (thank goodness for that stuff!) plus some thin brick, which gets me to 0.49.

 

[Waulie]

Is it too soft and not a rigid enough base?

I'm not positive if it is the rigidity or that it won't accept mortar/thinset. It think it might be both, but I've read several places (I think even on here) that it is not a suitable base for tile. I would assume that would apply to brick.

I commend your strict adherence to the hearth requirements. If it were me, I wouldn't lose a wink with what you have. But, I understand your concern. Your are so close at 0.36, have you considered just adding to what you have and being slightly less than flush? It would sure save a bunch of time.

 

[fire_man]

Is it too soft and not a rigid enough base?

I'm not positive if it is the rigidity or that it won't accept mortar/thinset. It think it might be both, but I've read several places (I think even on here) that it is not a suitable base for tile. I would assume that would apply to brick.

I commend your strict adherence to the hearth requirements. If it were me, I wouldn't lose a wink with what you have. But, I understand your concern. Your are so close at 0.36, have you considered just adding to what you have and being slightly less than flush? It would sure save a bunch of time.

The tiny difference of .4 vs .36 seems small, but its the equivalent to two layers of 1/4" ceramic tile! I could raise the entire hearth up with 1/4" hardibacker + 1/4" tile (.13+.02 = .16) so my total would be 0.36+0.16=0.52 but the transition back to the lower hardwood floor would be difficult to make asthetically pleasing. Also, I want to rip one 3" hardwood board out and make the hearth a little deeper. But I sure did consider your idea, I am dreading ripping the old Hearth out, I did a really good job of installing it!

 

[joecool85]

The tiny difference of .4 vs .36 seems small, but its the equivalent to two layers of 1/4" ceramic tile! I could raise the entire hearth up with 1/4" hardibacker + 1/4" tile (.13+.02 = .16) so my total would be 0.36+0.16=0.52 but the transition back to the lower hardwood floor would be difficult to make asthetically pleasing. Also, I want to rip one 3" hardwood board out and make the hearth a little deeper. But I sure did consider your idea, I am dreading ripping the old Hearth out, I did a really good job of installing it!

Well, you're doing the right thing. The good news is that you'll be making it 0.49R and 3" deeper, a quite good improvement really and you shouldn't have to fuss with it again for a good long time. Always best to do it right and not take short cuts.

 

[woodmiser]

I am slightly tempted to look for
Micore and go overboard, but I hear its hard to find.

I was looking into this too for my hearth rebuild. In addition to being hard to find, you would still need a suitable base for your brick. I don't think you would want to put your brick directly on Micore. So, you end up with an extra 1/2" of height and a crazy high R-value which you would likely never need.

I wondered about laying tile or brick directly on Micore. Is it too soft and not a rigid enough base? If that's the case it just answered a ton of questions about building up my hearth to higher R values. The best I can get and stay flush with the original hearth is 1/2" Durock Next Generation (thank goodness for that stuff!) plus some thin brick, which gets me to 0.49.

I have Micore. You can break it pretty easily and when it breaks it's like pressed newspaper fibers. I would not try to adhere anything to it. Put it under something that takes the thinset well like Durock or Hardybacker... both of which are non-combustible.

 

[fire_man]

Well that settles it, no Micore for me because I can't stack so many layers, it would no longer be a flush hearth. I didn't think you could adhere brick/tile directly to Micore but now I'm sure. There are some ceramic boards with great R value
(Fiberfrax and Rescor) - does anyone know if you can use thinset on those and then lay tile? I think the right answer is to just go with the Durock Next Generation. Its R value is 0.39 vs 1.1 for the ceramic boards, but it will be enough for my installation. Thanks for all the replies.