Re-gasket question

[Ctwoodtick]

For re-gasketing of woodstive doors, I see that gasket cement is heat cured. Do you have to heat cure right away or is it ok to do re- gasketing and then leave for a week or two (or more) before having a fire? Reason I ask is I may regasket before this burning season, but it will likely not be right before firing it up.

 

[begreen]

I'd follow directions and build a small fire at least, windows open, or wait for cooler weather.

 

[sportbikerider78]

I'm only into my first year burning...how many years do you guys get out of a gasket? Do you just do the dollar bill trick and monitor wear/leakage?

 

[Jags]

...how many years do you guys get out of a gasket?

Dunno - haven't had the need to replace one yet. Its only 14 years old.

 

[firefighterjake]

I'm only into my first year burning...how many years do you guys get out of a gasket? Do you just do the dollar bill trick and monitor wear/leakage?

Seems like it depends . . . I got seven years out of mine . . . some I did not have to replace. I've read other stories here of folks changing them in only three or four years.

 

[Hogwildz]

I use silicone, let stand for 24 hours, done deal.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

I use silicone, let stand for 24 hours, done deal.

Curious, do you need to cure it with heat? Also, what temp is the silicone you use rated for?

 

[Hogwildz]

Curious, do you need to cure it with heat? Also, what temp is the silicone you use rated for?

No heat curing needed, but you do need to let it cure on it's own for about 24 hrs. Anything sticking out from below the gasket will burn off, but the silicone under the gasket will be fine. Any high temp silicone at the hardware store will work. The stuff at the store is 500 or 600 degree rated. Either will work. The gasket protects it from burning. Whatever you use, the key is cleaning the door surface of any old gasket cement. I used a wire wheel on a drill and final cleaned with rubbing alcohol. Put the silicone in place where the gasket will rest, set gasket into the silicone, close the door and let set for 24. Done

Don't forget to readjust the latch assy, since the new gasket will be thicker than the worn gasket, and will make the latch hard to clasp, and may also prematurely wear parts if too tight.

 

[begreen]

I suggest not using Permatex Blue RTV. I tried it and it set up harder than rock. It was a real bear to remove.

 

[Dieselhead]

No heat curing needed, but you do need to let it cure on it's own for about 24 hrs. Anything sticking out from below the gasket will burn off, but the silicone under the gasket will be fine. Any high temp silicone at the hardware store will work. The stuff at the store is 500 or 600 degree rated. Either will work. The gasket protects it from burning. Whatever you use, the key is cleaning the door surface of any old gasket cement. I used a wire wheel on a drill and final cleaned with rubbing alcohol. Put the silicone in place where the gasket will rest, set gasket into the silicone, close the door and let set for 24. Done

Don't forget to readjust the latch assy, since the new gasket will be thicker than the worn gasket, and will make the latch hard to clasp, and may also prematurely wear parts if too tight.

That's interesting and good to know. I shot the front of my door with the IR gun and it's been north of 700 on a very cold night playing catch up and wondered how rtv would survive when the highest rated I've seen is for 600. I'm going to do a new door gasket before this burn season to try and cure the dreaded hinge side smoke smell when in low burn.

 

[Hogwildz]

That's interesting and good to know. I shot the front of my door with the IR gun and it's been north of 700 on a very cold night playing catch up and wondered how rtv would survive when the highest rated I've seen is for 600. I'm going to do a new door gasket before this burn season to try and cure the dreaded hinge side smoke smell when in low burn.

I have never had the silicone burn off that is under thew gasket, not matter how hot it got. I have had furnace cement let loose, and it ain't fun when that happened after a full load.

Did you check the door adjustment before deciding to change the gasket?

 

[webby3650]

That's interesting and good to know. I shot the front of my door with the IR gun and it's been north of 700 on a very cold night playing catch up and wondered how rtv would survive when the highest rated I've seen is for 600. I'm going to do a new door gasket before this burn season to try and cure the dreaded hinge side smoke smell when in low burn.

I'm pretty sure BK uses silicone to adhere gaskets at the factory.

 

[Dieselhead]

I have never had the silicone burn off that is under thew gasket, not matter how hot it got. I have had furnace cement let loose, and it ain't fun when that happened after a full load.

Did you check the door adjustment before deciding to change the gasket?

Yes, as you may know only the latch side is adjustable. Plenty of tension there but it does not transfer to the other side.

 

[Dieselhead]

I'm pretty sure BK uses silicone to adhere gaskets at the factory.

Thanks

 

[skinanbones]

i hate having to repair doors that had the gasket put in with silicone. I usally double my labour charge due to how much more work is required to get the castings clean and ready for the new silicone and gasket. If you use the gasket cement that most stove company use it can be heat cured with a small fire or it can air dry, it can take up to 24 hours to air dry. If you heat cure open and close the door several times during the process as the gasket can stick to the stove body

 

[webby3650]

I sure don't understand that. I much prefer to work with doors that have been siliconed. It's much easier to work with in my opinion.

 

[Hogwildz]

X2, silicone is much easier to clean off than gasket cement, and held much better for me.

 

[begreen]

Depends on the formulation. Silicone adhesives are not created equal. Some work ok, but others may not. I used Permatex blue rtv silicone and the stuff set up like cement. It was the hardest stuff I have ever had to dig out of a gasket channel.

 

[webby3650]

Depends on the formulation. Silicone adhesives are not created equal. Some work ok, but others may not. I used Permatex blue rtv silicone and the stuff set up like cement. It was the hardest stuff I have ever had to dig out of a gasket channel.

Interesting. I've always used red high temp, some companies use black regular temp silicone and it works fine.
I do know this: if silicone was used previously, it almost impossible to get gasket cement to stick next time around...

 

[begreen]

Yes, folks report that red rtv works fine. I went back to the standard gasket adhesive last time and it worked fine also with no issues.

 

[bholler]

All we use is red high temp also with no problems. And generally no problems getting it off either.

 

[begreen]

Yes, I think that's what comes in Regency's gasket kit as well.

 

[skinanbones]

around here the people who use silicone also use a red high-temp and even a couple years later, it stick like you wouldn't believe. I usally end up spending twice or three times as long scraping or wire wheel the door to get all the little chunks off. For gasket cement we use rutland 77e and once it has had a good season of use on it, you can grab the gasket and pull it out easy. Clean up is just a quick brush and your ready to go.

 

[CheapBassTurd]

My dreaded stove of death #2421 didn't have anything holding the fiberglass rope in place.
It started falling loose first few burns. Luckily I disassembled the thing and cemented/ sealed
all of the factory joints with refractory lining from the ol' foundry. Great way to have unlimited
firebricks too. I didn't bother doing the door and that's where the rope started hanging loose.
Now it's cemented too. Never tried silicone as of yet.

Yes, we did a few mini burns to cure the cement, then went full bore second day as it was February.
The $600 average heating bill dropped to $128 for Feb, then lower as it warmed outside.
Never going back to "paying the man to be warm".

CheapButCareful

 

[bholler]

For gasket cement we use rutland 77e and once it has had a good season of use on it, you can grab the gasket and pull it out easy.

And the fact that it pulls off easily after a season is exactly why we use silicone. Yes if you are going to use some other adhesive when you replace the gasket you are going to have to do allot of cleaning to get it all off. But if you use silicone again it just takes a quick wire brushing to get any big chunks off and stick the new one on.