Re-install of the Encore 2550

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Jackfre

Burning Hunk
Oct 3, 2011
147
N CA
Ok, I've figured out what I am going to do. This stove was originally installed into an old mostly petrified wood/stone fireplace, piped into an 8" oval Dura-liner system. In the remodel the old fireplace came down and the downstairs is all opened up. The DL system went to a friend and was in very good shape. I now have a pile of salvaged petrified wood.

The room is only 13' across and I am fighting for inches here. The stove will be placed into a spot that was the entry from the old kitchen to the LR. To gain space and reduce how far the hearth projects into the room, I am going to make a non-combustible wall. I'll build the hearth with guidance from a recent post on the topic (2- 1/2" Dur-rock with 1/4" steel plate cap, rim of 1" channel cut to fit and welded/painted ) I have a plasma cutter and welder so no issues there. I will be fabricating my own lower heat shield. I want the steel hearth cap so I can split kindling and small pieces without damaging the hearth. In my time I have broken more than one that way.

For the non-combustible wall, it will be a 44" W X 54" H X 1 1/8" Soapstone. The 44" is the specified width in the install manual. The SS will be capped with a 2 1/4" Soapstone mantle with a chipped rough perimeter. so, 2 1/4 X 52 X 14". The mantle will project thru the wall for anchoring support and to moderate heat transmission vertically. Backing the SS I will use the remainder of the 4x8 sheet of 1/4" plate left over from the hearth. I may put an air-gap between the SS and the plate. I will put 4 bolts thru the SS and plate so the air gap won't be difficult to do. I don't know expansion co-efficients for SS so I'll make the holes a bit larger than necessary. Would you put the air gap in it? Above the mantle to the ceiling I will use steel studs, but the finish wall above the mantle will be the pine paneling currently in the room. That wall will be ventilated.

The stove wall backs up to the entry way. It is a small entry which will be smaller still with the Selkirk Ultra-temp in there. I am going all-fuel from the Tee behind the stove all the way up. As the 2550 came with the oval termination and I need round right off the rear of the stove, again to bring the stove within a couple inches of the SS I picked up the accessory round termination from the local VC dealer. I am going to have to drill a 7" hole in the SS for the 6" single wall vent connector to pass thru. That will be touchy as I cannot do it until the SS is up and stove is in place so its location is precise. My back doesn't do cast iron any more so I installed a lifting eye through to the second floor.

The all fuel chimney will be the tee directly behind the stove, 24" piece 15* rolling offset (8 1/4") to pick up my 6 3/4" C-C and +/-16' straight up. I'll fabricate a sheet metal surround to keep people from bouncing off the chimney when they come in.

So far, costs for this is around $270 for the steel, $1500 for the SS, due to a friendly connection the chimney was free. In the re-model the house is wired for a Generac. All I need is the generator. She wants the stove! She will have the stove! I'm not going to say that I could about buy the 8-10kw generator for the cost of the install. Here in the Sierra foothills we do loose power with some regularity. I have not purchased the steel of ordered the SS yet. I thought I'd bounce it off the crew here first.

So, please, comments and suggestions are most welcome!
 
I want to see that slice of soap stone! Will be interesting to note how it holds and radiates a nice soft heat.
 
In order to get a protected wall clearance reduction the non-combustible wall must be ventilated. It should be on 1" spacers and open 1-3" on the bottom and 1" on the top for the free convection of air behind it. The material doesn't matter as long as it is non-combustible. The layering of durock, + SS + soapstone does not qualify unless the air gap is there. It is really unnecessary. A sheet of stainless steel or just the soapstone would be equally sufficient as long as it has the air gap. Note that this reduced distance is measured to the nearest combustible (wallboard and studs) behind the shield.
 
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In order to get a protected wall clearance reduction the non-combustible wall must be ventilated. It should be on 1" spacers and open 1-3" on the bottom and 1" on the top for the free convection of air behind it. The material doesn't matter as long as it is non-combustible. The layering of durock, + SS + soapstone does not qualify unless the air gap is there. It is really unnecessary. A sheet of stainless steel or just the soapstone would be equally sufficient as long as it has the air gap. Note that this reduced distance is measured to the nearest combustible (wallboard and studs) behind the shield.

Begreen, my apologies for the unclear terms. I got lazy and was using SS as the soapstone. The thing is, there is no combustible material in the wall as proposed. Above the mantle, yes, but none within specified dimensions in the manual. I am going to discuss attachment of the sheet with the soapstone fabricator . Epoxy is the material used but I will want some mechanical fasteners as well. An air gap is probably a good idea anyway as the 1/4" plate is just inside the door. It is probably a good idea not to burn the guests before t hey get 3' inside the place. I could use metal studs between the soap and steel.

As to handling the material, there will be little lifting. '14 has been a rough back year for me. I made some forks for the Kubota, so that will get it off the truck...maybe. Not sure on the counterweighting. I have a large 18" walnut branch overhanging the driveway. I can pick it and drop it onto the cart. I'll build a cart with good casters, roll it and lift it off with the come-along. We did a lot of soapstone countertops in the new kitchen and master bath. It really is great material. Great character, soft touch, non absorptive, non-reflective (we have 12 led can lights in the kitchen. if it was a shinie granite you would have to wear sunglasses). Yes, it scratches easily, but we don't mind a few character marks.
 
Could be I was misunderstanding the construction. What is behind the soapstone, cement board? If yes, what is behind the cement board? What distance from the wall rear wall are you trying to achieve? A sketch would work if that is easier.
 
It is difficult to understand a construction detail when it isn't drawn or at least clearly explained. I'll work on a drawing and post it. Thanks for helping!
 
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