RE-PAINTING Pellet Stove with STOVE BRIGHT

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lmjr

Member
Feb 16, 2010
184
Corners of PA-OH-WV
I will soon be re-painting a pellet stove w/ Stove Bright paint.

Stove Bright is High Temp. Stove paint...up to 1200*

It needs to go through a "curing" process accomplished by a firing duration of the stove in two heat stages at substantial high temps.

My questions are:

1. Has anyone painted a pellet stove w/ Stove Bright? if so, then,

2. What were the paint finish results to hopper steel and other metal panels that don't attain temps.high enough to complete the "curing" process?
 
Do a discrete test swatch on the back first and let it sit. Then check to make sure that the Stove Bright paint is compatible. It's an acetone based paint that can act badly with some paints and cause alligatoring. If no reaction, then it should be ok. If it does react, wipe clean and dry, lightly sand. Then paint with an alternative, non-acetone based paint like Hi-Temp Krylon. (I found this out the hard way when retouching some DuraVent DVL pipe.)

When using Stove-Brite paint be sure to do it in a very well ventilated space and use an organic vapor mask. The fumes are strong and rot brain cells.
 
BeGreen said:
Do a discrete test swatch on the back first and let it sit. Then check to make sure that the Stove Bright paint is compatible. It's an acetone based paint that can act badly with some paints and cause alligatoring. If no reaction, then it should be ok. If it does react, wipe clean and dry, lightly sand. Then paint with an alternative, non-acetone based paint like Hi-Temp Krylon. (I found this out the hard way when retouching some DuraVent DVL pipe.)

When using Stove-Brite paint be sure to do it in a very well ventilated space and use an organic vapor mask. The fumes are strong and rot brain cells.

yup, krylon bbq black is a good match for dvl these days, it used to be satin black from stovebright

if it reacts, i'll just stip the unit with paint prep, and use stovebright...
 
Okay, I'll test a inconspicuios spot...but

Can anyone help w/ How will the parts of stove that are not going to get HOT enough to "Cure" the paint will turn out?

Is this no big deal? Just looking for someone to say they did it and all is well.
 
Over the years we have painted a number of old stoves and had fairly good success. The key is stripping it down good, priming it is what we always did prior to painting it, we used rutland high temp paint as a rule of thumb. Good luck
 
I've used Stove Bright to paint about a dozen stoves, and haven't had any issues with different types of metal or different areas of the stove. The paint all cures well whether it gets hot or not. Just be sure the stove is free of any oils before your paint, and buy an extra can.

I also usually do a primer coat using the cheap high temp bbq grill paint from home depot or lowe's so I don't waste so much of the finish color trying to cover bare metal.

Have fun, and it'll turn out great.
 
Thanks! That's what I wanted to hear.
 
diysave said:
Over the years we have painted a number of old stoves and had fairly good success. The key is stripping it down good, priming it is what we always did prior to painting it, we used rutland high temp paint as a rule of thumb. Good luck

check with the can...primers are not high heat by nature. Isn't that why you are using hi-temp? Do not prime floors before using a floor coating and do not prime in hi-heat applications unless specifically instructed to do so.
 
Yes, I've seen some post where posters recommend using High Temp Primer first...but Forest Paints...Stove Bright...does NOT recommend any primer with use of their 1200* "Stove Bright" product.

Forest Paints does sell a primer product for use on BBQ Grills w/ their other paint products...For outdoor exposure and far less than 1200*...not for the Stove Bright product. .
 
Most all manufacturers use Forest Paints (Stove Bright) at the factory. The finish you will attain (on the high temp. and not so high temp. surfaces) will be similar to when the stove was new. Forest Paints are a thicker-bodied, self leveling paint which is capable of acheiving excellant finishing results. I would shy away from using products like Krylon.

Also, Forest Paint has made a color specifically for Simpson pipe for years (also used at the facory, it is a lower emissions paint required by CA air quality regulations), it is part # FP1A54H222.
 
Jonas said:
Also, Forest Paint has made a color specifically for Simpson pipe for years (also used at the facory, it is a lower emissions paint required by CA air quality regulations), it is part # FP1A54H222.

Thanks for that tid bit. I have been looking for a good match!
 
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