Re: Prettying up the hearth

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firefighterjake

Minister of Fire
Jul 22, 2008
19,588
Unity/Bangor, Maine
So my project this late summer is prettying up the wall behind the hearth . . . and now I'm looking for a bit of advice.

I pulled down about 4 feet of sheetrock to expose the studs. Put in 1/2 inch plywood with 1/4 inch cement board over that. Over this I'm putting down this porcelain tile that looks like stone.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_488152-2871...rentURL=?Ntt=silver+porcelain+tile&facetInfo=


First question: Do I need to put metal lathe over the cement board or would the plywood/cement board be enough?

Second question: The tile is relatively large . . . or at least larger than what I've used before . . . is this something I should do in stages? For example, do up to 2 feet and then wait for it to harden up?

Third and final question (for now): Would you just butter the back of the tile and apply to the wall . . . or would I want to do a scratch coat on the wall . . . and if I do that do I wait for the scratch coat to dry first.
 
Good questions. I'm following too. I know I've heard of folks having problems with tile sliding down the wall when the thinset isn't enough to keep them up. Also, I've heard to tile from the top down so that all of your dribbles and mess don't land on new tile.

Why did you remove the sheetrock instead of just adding layers on top of it?
 
No need for lathe. You will want to use a large notched trowel to lay the thin set on the wall, then also butter the back of the tiles. Set your first row, let it sit for a half hour or so. Use sanded grout caulking at the floor where the wall meets the hearth. Grout will always crack in corners like that. Also make sure you use thinset that is designed for the tiles you are using.
 
Good questions. I'm following too. I know I've heard of folks having problems with tile sliding down the wall when the thinset isn't enough to keep them up. Also, I've heard to tile from the top down so that all of your dribbles and mess don't land on new tile.

Why did you remove the sheetrock instead of just adding layers on top of it?

Window trim will be butting up against the wall . . . wife says it would look funny if the wall jutted out past the trim . . . and since she has an eye for what looks good and what doesn't I go with what she says.
 
Thanks for the replies and links.
 
Thought I would give folks an update . . . no pics yet until we get everything finished.

Tile went up pretty well . . . none of it has fallen off the wall yet and it seems more or less straight . . . although we did have to cut some tile to make things line up right.

Having large tile like this made the job go quite fast . . . and it looks good . . . kind of, sort of.

I do have a question for folks.

My wife is happy with the way it looks . . . I think she wanted this more for peace of mind than anything. However, after putting in the grout I can clearly see the individual tiles -- the rows and where they come together in a jig-saw like fashion. Normally I would just live with it . . . and may have to do so . . . but I noticed that when the tile is wet everything blends in really well. Is there any way to fix this so it looks wet all the time? I tried using some high gloss sealant in one inconspicuous spot to see if that would work, but it did not give me the same effect as the damp wall.
 
Hi Jake :) First, thank you for being a firefighter. Your ranks are the true hero's around here.

Over the years, I have wanted the same high gloss or wet look on many things- wood, stone tile, grout, all sorts of things. I have found multiple coats create that look. Paint, polyurethane, stains, sealants, whatever I use can take up to 5 coats especially if starting from scratch with a porous material. With each coat, I see it get a little closer to what I want. Perhaps you could test your sealant in that inconspicuous spot you found and see if the same holds true for you.
 
I could try Mellery . . . but I think the porcelain tile may not be all that porous . . . so I'm not sure if this would work or not. Perhaps it is worth a try.
 
Im working on putting my stone tiles up on the wall and ceiling as well , almost done. My concern is the heat from the stove drying out, cracking or otherwise affecting the mortar and having tiles fall off. I guess i'll be finding out soon enough.
Im thinking Mellery might be on to something with polyurethane. I use it a lot in my wood working. Probably need to hit it 4 or 5 times but i think after enough coats you'd get that shiny look.
 
I would think the polyurethane would be flammable. Sorry to also say that porcelain tile is NOT porous. If you didn't put up a high gloss tile, you might be stuck. Your best bet might be to talk to a tile store. Sealant usually is just for the grout and doesn't get glossy (from my experience). Stones that are glossy have been previously tumbled usually. What about using "Mod Podge" which is found in craft stores? It goes on white but dries shiny clear. I'd try it on a scrap first to see the outcome.
 
I may have found a solution to my problem . . . ended up going to the tile store and asking if they had some sort of grout paint or stain. Turns out they do, but the helpful guy there suggested that a cheaper solution may be lemon oil (as in the Old English lemon oil) used for wood. Tried a bit and son of a gun . . . actually worked pretty well. The tile store guy said it soaks into the grout and darkens it up . . . eventually I may have to reapply some . . . but as he pointed out it's much cheaper than the grout stain at $40 a bottle.
 
I look forward to seeing the pics. We have an ugly brick hearth that we're planning to do a stone veneer over but I like options.
 
Thought I would give folks an update . . . no pics yet until we get everything finished.

Tile went up pretty well . . . none of it has fallen off the wall yet and it seems more or less straight . . . although we did have to cut some tile to make things line up right.

Having large tile like this made the job go quite fast . . . and it looks good . . . kind of, sort of.

I do have a question for folks.

My wife is happy with the way it looks . . . I think she wanted this more for peace of mind than anything. However, after putting in the grout I can clearly see the individual tiles -- the rows and where they come together in a jig-saw like fashion. Normally I would just live with it . . . and may have to do so . . . but I noticed that when the tile is wet everything blends in really well. Is there any way to fix this so it looks wet all the time? I tried using some high gloss sealant in one inconspicuous spot to see if that would work, but it did not give me the same effect as the damp wall.


You can try a product like this
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Miracle-...-Stone-Sealer-and-Enhancer-SEA-QT-H/100483896

It gives a wet look. You will want to check if it will work with your tile. test it on some left over scrap tiles. I don't know if the heat would be an issue, check with the manufacturer to see if it is safe to use.
 
You can try a product like this
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Miracle-...-Stone-Sealer-and-Enhancer-SEA-QT-H/100483896

It gives a wet look. You will want to check if it will work with your tile. test it on some left over scrap tiles. I don't know if the heat would be an issue, check with the manufacturer to see if it is safe to use.

I tried some high gloss sealant originally . . . went on looking wet, but with the grout it dried relatively clear and didn't darken down any.
 
Maybe a grout colorant to make it a few shades darker.

Either way, it probably isn't as noticeable as you think it is.

Tile store also said the grout colorant was also an option if the lemon oil didn't work . . . at something like $40 a bottle.

You may also be correct as to the look . . . my wife who usually is pretty particular and exacting when it comes to construction projects (possibly because she knows more than me when it comes to construction) . . . felt the tile looked fine.
 
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