real thinking about taking out my drolet heatmax

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Just a thought, because I hopped on this thread and immediately thought "I'LL BUY IT!" (before I realized you lived in Canada) Did you try contacting Drolet directly? I emailed them on an inquiry, and they got back with me quick. So far customer service seems top notch. Nobody knows their products like they do. I know Yukon for example, gives AMAZING customer service.

If your unit is in the basement, I HIGHLY encourage you to install a fresh air intake. If not mentioned yet, I will be willing to bet a cord of seasoned oak that is your problem.
Here in Canada we can't get oak,I was taking to drolet
Just a thought, because I hopped on this thread and immediately thought "I'LL BUY IT!" (before I realized you lived in Canada) Did you try contacting Drolet directly? I emailed them on an inquiry, and they got back with me quick. So far customer service seems top notch. Nobody knows their products like they do. I know Yukon for example, gives AMAZING customer service.

If your unit is in the basement, I HIGHLY encourage you to install a fresh air intake. If not mentioned yet, I will be willing to bet a cord of seasoned oak that is your problem.
I called SBI they make the furnace i found out on this site that they change the location of the thermodisc that cuts the blower in they are going to send a kit to change it but I have to wait 3 weeks to get it they don't have it in stock. They have good service
 
I'm not an HVAC pro, but it looks like your ductwork is causing alot of problems. Your not removing alot of heat from the furnace due to high pressures. Double has the right idea. You don't want long runs off the woodfurnace.
 
I'm not an HVAC pro, but it looks like your ductwork is causing alot of problems. Your not removing alot of heat from the furnace due to high pressures. Double has the right idea. You don't want long runs off the woodfurnace.
Hi just I to let u know that I only have 1 long run the other is cold air return the other is close to the furnace.
 
I'm with Maple. I would disconnect both ducts from the top temporarily. Your not going to hurt anything. If your blower runs longer and airflow improves, then you can look into your ducting. It's not really a stand alone furnace, but an add-on. With Doubles furnace, it's ducted in a way that mimics an Add-on, but installed as a stand alone. It's the same way the Mini-Caddy is setup with its plenum kit.
 
Bedrock1,

Ok, lots of comments above, lots of good advice. Time for us to take a break and for you to troubleshoot in a methodical way, and you’ll have to do the work on that.

Based on the above comments, do the following and answer each of the following questions so that we have solid information to go on:

-Take the covers off the Tundra’s blower box.
-Take the covers off the unused 8” outlets on the top of the furnace.
-Temporarily close your 6 registers to the house. Use dampers, tape over the registers, whatever is effective.
-Use a thermometer to measure your basement temperature.
-Open a window 1/4 inch. Open the door to the basement.
-Make a typical fire. Keep the damper open unless you think you are overheating.

Questions:
1. Does the blower eventually come on? How long did it take for the blower to energize after you started your fire?

2. Within 20 minutes of starting the fire, is the blower staying on? If not, is there hot air rising from the top outlets? Use a thermometer—what is the temperature of the air coming from the outlets?

3. After the blower has been running for 10 continuous minutes, is there a strong and fast airflow coming from the uncovered outlets? Is the air warm? Use a thermometer—what is the air temperature?

4. Keep the fire going strong for 4 hours (without overheating). After 4 hours, has your basement heated up? What is the temperature after 4 hours, in the same location as your initial measurement?

5. What is the outdoor temperature? Is it windy?

6. Did you notice the damper close by itself at any time in the four hours when you had the damper switch on “open”?

7. Are you reporting temperature in Celsius?

Do the procedure above, and report back with detailed results to all of the above questions. The results should help quickly narrow down the cause(s) of your problems, which could be any of the many things suggested. We’ve all offered a lot of possible causes in 3 or 4 threads for you to consider, now it’s up to you to do the work to troubleshoot before our help can be effective. I understand if you don’t want to do the troubleshooting. No problem, then call in the HVAC technician and we’ll move on to a different topic.

And also remember to replace your Tundra covers and open your registers when you’re done with the above experiment.
 
Bedrock1,

Ok, lots of comments above, lots of good advice. Time for us to take a break and for you to troubleshoot in a methodical way, and you’ll have to do the work on that.

Based on the above comments, do the following and answer each of the following questions so that we have solid information to go on:

-Take the covers off the Tundra’s blower box.
-Take the covers off the unused 8” outlets on the top of the furnace.
-Temporarily close your 6 registers to the house. Use dampers, tape over the registers, whatever is effective.
-Use a thermometer to measure your basement temperature.
-Open a window 1/4 inch. Open the door to the basement.
-Make a typical fire. Keep the damper open unless you think you are overheating.

Questions:
1. Does the blower eventually come on? How long did it take for the blower to energize after you started your fire?

2. Within 20 minutes of starting the fire, is the blower staying on? If not, is there hot air rising from the top outlets? Use a thermometer—what is the temperature of the air coming from the outlets?

3. After the blower has been running for 10 continuous minutes, is there a strong and fast airflow coming from the uncovered outlets? Is the air warm? Use a thermometer—what is the air temperature?

4. Keep the fire going strong for 4 hours (without overheating). After 4 hours, has your basement heated up? What is the temperature after 4 hours, in the same location as your initial measurement?

5. What is the outdoor temperature? Is it windy?

6. Did you notice the damper close by itself at any time in the four hours when you had the damper switch on “open”?

7. Are you reporting temperature in Celsius?

Do the procedure above, and report back with detailed results to all of the above questions. The results should help quickly narrow down the cause(s) of your problems, which could be any of the many things suggested. We’ve all offered a lot of possible causes in 3 or 4 threads for you to consider, now it’s up to you to do the work to troubleshoot before our help can be effective. I understand if you don’t want to do the troubleshooting. No problem, then call in the HVAC technician and we’ll move on to a different topic.

And also remember to replace your Tundra covers and open your registers when you’re done with the above experiment.
hi i will do the test, i have to get a termometer i will look for one tomorrow so we narrow things down.
 
If your unit is in the basement, I HIGHLY encourage you to install a fresh air intake. If not mentioned yet, I will be willing to bet a cord of seasoned oak that is your problem.
That's a good point, the negative pressure issue needs to be checked. Many homes have negative pressure in the basement, even drafty old houses. To check for this, just crack a door or window during the next load and see if anything changes. If it does then we'll hafta tell ya how to make a fresh air intake
 
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Can I use a normal thermometer that check temp in the house instead of laser one

A normal one would probably work at first. Hopefully you can find a thermometer that goes up to 120F (50 Celsius) or even higher. If your air temperatures are 120F/50C or more and if your blower is moving air well, that will suggest that your furnace is producing enough heat, then we can focus on your ductwork.

If you want a laser one, though, this is a good opportunity to treat yourself to one. That would also allow you to measure flue temperature.
 
I am only 15 min away from Canadia tire

$99.99 on sale for $29.99. If you have the same sales we do. Keep in mind they dont do good on shiney surfaces, so a shot of flat black BBQ paint where you want to measure at works pretty good if its shiney.
 
$99.99 on sale for $29.99. If you have the same sales we do. Keep in mind they dont do good on shiney surfaces, so a shot of flat black BBQ paint where you want to measure at works pretty good if its shiney.
I just checked same price I will get one tomorrow. If I only can get a manometer instant of waiting 3-4 weeks
 
I'm not an HVAC pro, but it looks like your ductwork is causing alot of problems. Your not removing alot of heat from the furnace due to high pressures. Double has the right idea. You don't want long runs off the woodfurnace.

That was my first thought as well. Just because they're only 2 - 8" collars on the top of the furnace doesn't mean it can be run that way efficiently. As someone else stated, these are "add-on" furnaces, and intended to use a few feet of 8" round to quickly dump into a larger trunk. Then, you can take your 5 or 6" rounds off to your registers.

Bedrock1, I highly suggest you go back through the Drolet installation manual, I'm sure you'll find some important information on minimal truck sizing. I know on my Caddy, it was 260 sq. inches (at a cross section) for the supply, and at least that size for the return. I hate to sound negative, but I don't think you're going to heat anything but the basement, and maybe your chimney, with the way you currently have it set-up. Good luck.
 
Your ductwork is terrible, an oil furnace attached to that would not work. Do you only have 1, 8 inch cold air intake? Can't push out more than you pull. You need an HVAC guy, there is a reason you need to go to school to be one.
 
I just checked same price I will get one tomorrow. If I only can get a manometer instant of waiting 3-4 weeks


Did you try the place I linked above? I think they're in Canada & will put one right in the mail. Check them out.
 
Go to the Hearth.com forum page, top left, right after "home", the list of staff that is online now is shown on the right, click on one of them, and then click on "start a conversation" once their profile comes up
I can't find it
Go to the top of this page...right beneath the sponsor advertisement...see where it says Home > Forums > Main hearth forums >...then as I said before...click the Forums tab...then on that page looks for the "staff on line now", its on the right side...
 
Hi never had a chance to try the few things to narrow down what's going on. I can't figure out how to post what u were saying about posted in one area
 
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