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Received new Auger Motor Gleason Avery A901, need to reverse rotation

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by geek, Feb 9, 2010.

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  1. geek

    geek Minister of Fire

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    Ok, got new auger motor today to replace bottom auger in my Englander 25-PDV, the auger went bad as stated in this thread:

    http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/51954/

    For a different motor I saw this info to reverse to CCW rotation but need to make sure on this Gleason Avery

    "Motor is reversible mechanically. Meaning you would remove the 4 screws that hold the motor to the gear box.
    2 of the screws go through the bearing housing, you remove those and then reverse the shaft/rotor. Turn the motor coil around and reassemble
    ."

    1. The assembly has 2 screws on the magnetic part and two more holding the shaft piece, do I need to remove these 4 screws and then just position/turn this magnetic piece 180 degrees?

    2. How easy is to remove the bottom auger, do I need to remove the top auger at all?

    3. The label in the new A901 motor reads "Date 10.02.05". Does this mean the part was made over 4 years ago? EDIT: they told me this is international coding, the part was made just a couple days ago.

    4. The new motor has the 2 lead cables coming out when the old one mounted has female terminals so you just easily connect the cables from the main board to it.

    ..

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  2. SidecarFlip

    SidecarFlip Member

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    It's shaded pole, all auger motors are. Low torque and low current draw. Just pull the laminations off the gearbox by removing whatever screws it takes and flip it over so the original outside is now inside. That will reverse the rotation. Be careful when you pull the laminations off the gearbox because the armature and the end bearing cap will come loose. Make doubly sure you reinstall the washers (between the bearing housing and the armature itself) in the correct order and have the correct number on each end of the armature shaft.

    The end of the armature shaft will have a fast helix worm cut into it. That drives the first segment in the triple reduction gearbox but that fast helix worm also causes a reverse torque reaction on the armature. That's why it's important to install the thrust washers in the correct sequence and the correct number on each side of the armature.

    The leads from the motor can have any lug you want to crimp on and aren't polarity sensitive. It's 110 AC so there is a common and a power lead but it matters little. Motor rotation is dependent on frequency not voltage.

    For longevity sake, I'd suggest dissassembling the gearbox, cleaning out the factory grease (ther won't be much at all in there and refilling it with a good quality High Temperature Eynthetic bearing grease like LPS. I put in an alemite (zerk) fitting and a weep hole and grease my reduction drives every season.

    Hope that helps.
  3. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    What that date means depends upon the manufacturer contact them and ask.
  4. hearthtools

    hearthtools Moderator Emeritus

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    [​IMG]
  5. jtakeman

    jtakeman Minister of Fire

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    Very NEAT Rod! That should make it much easier to understand. Picture's always help with things that are hard to explain!

    Thanks for sharing!
  6. SidecarFlip

    SidecarFlip Member

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    A picture is worth a thousand words..... :)

    You still need to warch the placement of the washers because of the thrust the worm imposes on the armature shaft.
  7. geek

    geek Minister of Fire

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    ohhh, so it is basically placing it upside down, I thought it would be rotation just 180 degrees.
  8. geek

    geek Minister of Fire

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    ok, just flipped this upside down as shown in the animation above.

    Last night I removed the 2 augers because the top auger is in the way.

    Will re-assemble back now and report back.

    ..
  9. geek

    geek Minister of Fire

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    stove is up and running for 2 hours now, do you just toss the bad auger motor?

    thanks to all for the help, as always...!!
  10. smalltown

    smalltown Minister of Fire

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    Stove DOC what a simple and most effective animation. Nice job.
  11. imacman

    imacman Guest

    I would keep it around for spare parts. BTW, did you ever determine if it was the motor, or the gearcase that went bad?
  12. geek

    geek Minister of Fire

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    I don't know, how can I tell?

    .
  13. imacman

    imacman Guest

    Did you try connecting the motor to an old power cord from a lamp, etc, and plug it in.....if the motor runs, but the output shaft doesn't, you know it's a gear problem.

    Also, if it does run, and the output shaft DOES turn, try holding it with a pair of pliers to see what kind of power it has.
  14. KINGOFTHENORTH

    KINGOFTHENORTH Member

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    :) Happy ST. Patrick's Day!........my old auger motor finally crapped out ,so i finally installed a A901 auger motor today, Now my stove is up and running again,and my Irish eyes are smiling!..Thanks to all the great posts the install went great and it is spinning the correct direction..Time to crack open a Guinness.......

    Attached Files:

  15. smoke show

    smoke show Guest

    selkirk direct temp, eh?
  16. KINGOFTHENORTH

    KINGOFTHENORTH Member

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    Yes, this is what it looks like from front.

    Attached Files:

  17. MSmith66

    MSmith66 Feeling the Heat

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    I have been installing and serving stoves for some time now and have never seen a hook up like that. What kind of hook up is that called and is there a fine coating of dust in your house? Just curious.
  18. MCPO

    MCPO Minister of Fire

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    It looks like a double walled vent pipe to me . Outer flue for OAK and inner flue for the exhaust.
  19. KINGOFTHENORTH

    KINGOFTHENORTH Member

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    It is a selkirk up and out vent kit with (1) three foot section of pipe up and (1) two foot section of pipe out added to the basic kit. Ive been very happy with it,and when I use the leafblower you just take the outside cone off and stick it in the exposed pipe outlet. It is alittle dusty behind the stove, i havent cleaned back there all winter...lol....Here is a link to the pipe kit I used. http://www.builderdepot.com/browse.ihtml?pid=824926&step=5&prodstoreid=9782
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