Recommend a chain upgrade...

...for my MS280?

I've been running Stihl Oilomatic 3 chain loops labeled 26RMC3, with an 18" bar.

My dealer has a 26 RS 74 he's recommending, but I thought I would post up my question here. Anyone recommend for or against the Stihl Rapid Super?

Cheers!

The rmc3 is safety semi chisel. Lose the "3" when buying stihl chain (yellow over green)

Your dealer is recommending full chisel non- safety (should be RSC).

Follow his advice.

RS (RSC) or RM (RMC) will be easier to maintain than the chains with the 3 on the end of them.

Thanks for the replies and hints.

Cheers!

Stihl RS, FTW!

Yep, that was the first thing I did when I got my saws. Actually, maybe the second. The MS660 came with full chisel RSC chain and the MS261 came with 26RMC3. The chips from the MS660 were so much larger on the first day of cutting that I ordered the full chisel chain for the MS261 later that day. The difference is noticeable. Just understand that the RS chain is non-safety chain and more prone to kickback.

RMC3 is the most disappointing Stihl chain I've tried. I had a 290 that came with.325 pitch RMC3, and switching to .325 RSC (now RS) made a dramatic difference.

Another for RSC

You sir, must never have run RM2. Compared to that RMC3 is a dream.

Correct and I have no desire to run it. The only reason I had RMC3 is that it came on a 290 I once had.

+1 for RS
But RS & RS3 are the same cutter. Should cut the same speed all being equal. Just some safety built into in the RS3.
What am I missing? Isn't a little safety built in a good thing?

But why not the RS3 ? The the safety "single humped drive link" only comes into play on the nose area of the bar where kickback is caused.
Whe the chain rolls over the nose the hump sticks up to keep the cutter from digging in deeper if the nose gets into wood.
It reduces kickback but don't totally prevent it. The rest of the time it is even with the raker just like the RS.
Why is the RS better than the RS3 ?




RS3:


The RS is the same cutter but no "humped drive link".
I don't see where it would be faster it you are not using the nose of the bar. Should cut the same as the RS3.
When you file the raker, you also file some of the hump on the drive link.

RS:



The Oregon LPX is similar to the RS3, a little kick back reduction & smoother cutting, where
the LGX is similar to the RS, no kick back reduction.

Also FYI:
Quote from stihl: "RS3 chain typically cuts faster than RM chain, but requires careful sharpening and maintenance to continue to perform well."

RM is a little better if you are cutting dirty stuff, don't dull quit as fast & like Sthil says, gotta keep the chisel chain sharp to perform well.

RS3/RSC3 is really quite good unless the nose of the bar is buried. That's where the guard links (humped drive-links) do their work.

If you don't do a lot of bore cutting, RS3 versus RS won't make a difference. If you do, then it probably will.

I got the duro carbide for my stihl ms250 18". It has a great cut.
Not sure if your putting carbide in the mix. It hardly seems worn at all.
expensive though. I got it for black locust.