removing damper frame

[trx680]

In my fireplace, the damper has been removed but the frame still exists.
I want to remove the frame as well so I can make more room for a liner.

Whats the best way to do so? Reciprocating saw?

 

[bholler]

yeah recip saw and or grinder. Usually you only need to remove the back section for a 6" liner

 

[Michael6268]

One or two cuts with a grinder followed by a few wacks with a hand sledge.

 

[BrotherBart]

Recip saw if you don't like your teeth. Grinder if you don't like your eyes. Hack saw if you just want to cut it out without drama. Ain't hard to hacksaw cast iron.

 

[Excavator]

Recip saw if you don't like your teeth. Grinder if you don't like your eyes. Hack saw if you just want to cut it out without drama. Ain't hard to hacksaw cast iron.

AND ware GOGGLES

 

[JA600L]

It's always fun to play with an oxy acetylene torch.

 

[webby3650]

Almost always you can take a long pry bar, put up against the bottom of the frame and whack it with a hand sledge. Once its buried a bit push down on the bar and your done! I can have a damper frame out in seconds without any power tools. If it's a really nice fireplace, I often use either a sawzall or grinder.

 

[bholler]

Almost always you can take a long pry bar, put up against the bottom of the frame and whack it with a hand sledge. Once its buried a bit push down on the bar and your done! I

the problem with that technique is that it is not reversible when we cut them out we cut clean and leave all the parts on the smoke shelf so the fireplace could be repaired with mending plates if someone wanted

 

[webby3650]

the problem with that technique is that it is not reversible when we cut them out we cut clean and leave all the parts on the smoke shelf so the fireplace could be repaired with mending plates if someone wanted

I have never seen anyone want to repair a cast iron damper. In the event that they want an open fire again a locktop damper is a much better option.

 

[bholler]

I have never seen anyone want to repair a cast iron damper. In the event that they want an open fire again a locktop damper is a much better option.

That is because most installers dont allow for them to be repaired. It is very simple and cheap to put it back together if you leave all of the peices

 

[webby3650]

That is because most installers dont allow for them to be repaired. It is very simple and cheap to put it back together if you leave all of the peices

Ok... If you say so.
I really doubt the way it was modified makes any difference on wether or not a customer chooses to restore it to an open fireplace.

 

[bholler]

I really doubt the way it was modified makes any difference on weather or not a customer chooses to restore it to an open fireplace.

i never said it did i just like to leave all the options open when possible. I am not going to go to great lengths to make sure it is rebuild able but that is a pretty simple thing you can do and people seem to appreciate it when i tell them all the parts are there in case they ever want to go back. Honestly that is why i do it most of the time just to make the customer feel more comfortable about the fact that i am cutting up their fireplace.

 

[turbotom1052]

after removing damper door and hardware I was able to grind down the cast iron tab by about .25 inch. This allowed me to clearance an ovalized 6 inch flex liner directly to an ovalized on top tee that i connected directly to rear flue stove. By doing so I will still be able to re install the damper plate in the event I want to go back to an open fireplace.

 

[bholler]

after removing damper door and hardware I was able to grind down the cast iron tab by about .25 inch. This allowed me to clearance an ovalized 6 inch flex liner directly to an ovalized on top tee that i connected directly to rear flue stove. By doing so I will still be able to re install the damper plate in the event I want to go back to an open fireplace.

yes but ovalizing reduces volume and draft it also makes it harder to clean it is generally much better to leave the liner round if at all possible

 

[turbotom1052]

I could see how ovalizing may cause a reduction in draft, but there will be no reduction in volume as your still left with the same space. I can tell you that I've got app. 4 feet of ovalized 6 inch going from my clean out tee behind stove up to an oval to round adapter thats just above my damper block off plate going into about 20 feet of 6 inch flex round. This setup sucks like a Coney Island whore

 

[mwhitnee]

It's always fun to play with an oxy acetylene torch.

Lol that's so overboard it's funny lol