Repair for a fiberglass handle splitting maul?

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Stlshrk

Member
Mar 4, 2008
166
VA
I hit the head of my trusty splitting maul with a sledge to "massage" one particuarly persnickety piece of hickory which I was determined to split. Split it did, but a chunk of the epoxy came off the head of the maul where the fiberglass handle goes through. Has anyone repaired one of these? I've done wooden handles before, but not these. It is loose so I am thinking that I need to knock it the rest of the way off (hopefully without breaking the handle). Then clean off the old epoxy and reinstall w/ JB weld. Just wondering if anyone else has tried this? I know the stuff is runny so I was also thinking to seal the bottom of the handle to head w/ hot glue. Just overnight so that the jb weld will not run all down the handle. Then I can pull the hot glue off. So let me have it. Thoughts, Jeers, Jokes, I can take it. Thanks!
 
I've thought about doing that a couple of times myself rather than break out a wedge. Your plan sounds ok, but I'd check to see if the looseness is simply created by the place where the material is missing first - if it is, than just capping that area would probably be ok as long as the repair bonded to the existing material. Of course, I never attempted to repair one, so I honestly don't know what the best method would be.
 
I prefer wooden handles, so I would replace it with one of those. However, your approach sounds like it would work.

I "clean" maul heads by dropping them in the wood stove or boiler for a few minutes to burn off all the crap. You can fish it out with the poker. Quench it in a bucket of water if you like. In any event, you won't hurt the head.
 
Eric Johnson said:
I prefer wooden handles, so I would replace it with one of those. However, your approach sounds like it would work.

I "clean" maul heads by dropping them in the wood stove or boiler for a few minutes to burn off all the crap. You can fish it out with the poker. Quench it in a bucket of water if you like. In any event, you won't hurt the head.
there was a time when I would have ignored this post and just figured you were some old timer who was set in his ways. I have a fiberglass handled axe and a FG splitter and I used to really feel the give and bend in them when using them. I always assumed this was more evidence that it was taking the impact and therefore alleviating any wear and tear on my joints and such. Well, the more time i've spent with both wood and FG, the more I have to say that wood just feels better for me. I have no science, no studies, no explanation of why, but I swear that wood tires me out less and just plain feels like I have more power, or at least feels firmer at impact. there's something strange about the bend with a hard swing. instead of an impact, you get a moment of resistance, that's the best I can describe it. So, to summarize, I'm with Eric on this. Swap it out for wood....lol (don't you love it when you ask for advice on how to do something and people tell you to forget about what you are asking and advise you to go a completely different direction?!?!)
 
I'm a wood guy too but if I were to attempt a repair like Stlshrk here's what I would do.

On a firm surface like a cement floor I'd bash the handle down on the floor to seat the metal mall as firm as possible. Then take a propane torch and seize the top of the fiberglass handle at the end of the mall.
 
I actually had the head of my fiberglass handled maul fly off a couple years ago. They make a special epoxy repair kit for these. I couldn't find one without a new handle at either depot or lowes, they were packaged together. Then I was in walmart and figured I'd take a look. Lo and behold, for about 3 bucks they had the special epoxy kit for these handles. Followed the directions which were essentially clean out the old crap, pack in a gasket(included) to keep epoxy from flowing down the handle, and mix and pour the epoxy. Two years and many cords later it's still holding strong.
 
I tried a few different fixes and they all failed. I used JB Weld like you mentioned 2 years ago and still working.
 
I tried the quick fix yesterday by just filling the top after seating the head, with regular JB weld. Let it set a day, but after 20-30 licks the head started slipping again. So I went ahead and removed the handle, cleaned the head and handle and decided to use some JB quick weld (epoxy). I'll give it another try tomorrow after good and dry. Nice to know that Wal-Mart has something to try if this doesn't work out.

As for the thoughts on the wood handle. I've got an old maul with a wood handle that I like as well. And if I was just splitting at the shed all the time it would be fine. But when I bust up some rounds just to make them easier to handle in the woods, I prefer the fiberglass. I can abuse it without much worry. However, said abuse will never again be striking the maul with a sledge... Real Homer Simpson moment, eh? DOAH!
 
Stlshrk said:
But when I bust up some rounds just to make them easier to handle in the woods, I prefer the fiberglass. I can abuse it without much worry.
yeah, i understand that. you can drive over it, overswing, whatever. My new(er) wood handled 8lb maul has a plastic sleeve, and while i don't miss as much as I used to, it happens, that seems to be a nice upgrade compared to my 6lb-er which has had bad luck and is on it's third handle (the last break just happened for no reason, it musta been a bum handle)
 
Just a quick update.
The quick setting epoxy also cracked.

After I redid the epoxy with some normal 24 hr setting type (loctite, I think), it has been fine for a couple of weeks. I sealed the bottom with the Goop again (to keep it from leaking down). And, although the epoxy hasn't cracked again or anything, I find myself being extra careful with it now. You know, looking at the head and epoxy every 5 or 6 swings, just to check. I don't know how long the confidence will take to return. I find myself usually leaving it (6lb'er) aside for the 8lb mual.
 
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