Replacement for Baby Bear

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Hithere15

New Member
Aug 28, 2023
4
Bristol, VA
I would LOVE to replace our Baby bear with something more efficient. The issue is, the chimney was constructed specifically for the baby bear so I’m not sure it’s even possible without having the chimney completely redone. Thoughts? We use this stove daily in the winter in addition to our gas furnace but it heats nearly the entire upstairs a few degrees with a massive ceiling fan circulating the air. We have a modern insert in our basement and it is just so much more efficient. I’m attaching a photo of the baby and the room itself (a chair is blocking the stove in the room photo). This was an addition to the house and is a brick chimney on an exterior wall. The original owner claims this was added in 1980. TIA!
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It sounds like the goal is to replace the stove. Moved to the main forum for modern alternatives.

If you don't find a suitable replacement, the thimble can be raised and the old hole filled in.
 
There aren't a lot of choices for rear exit stoves these days. What is the height at the top of the thimble where it enters the chimney?
 
Maybe a Woodstock stove would fit or a Jotul F35 or F45 with a short leg kit?
 
If you are going to move the thimble up (appears likely) make sure to consider going plenty far. Looks like you have adequate room. Nice to have plenty of stove options (including many of the top outlet stoves) not limited by thimble height. Some top outlet stoves require a 2-to-3-foot vertical connector pipe section before heading for the chimney.
A thought perhaps.
 
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Is there any possibility of converting that chimney opening to a chimney cleanout and leave it there?? I believe I would, then open another hole at least 72”-84” (minimum range…ok to go higher than 84” if you have the room and the clearance). This would put a new stove opening (thimble) 3ft-4ft above a 40” stove top height…and a 40” stove top height more than covers nearly most stoves built yesterday or today with a few exceptions. The point in this suggestion is always plan for future stove changes. Years down the road you or someone else may want to put in something like a DS 110/160 (although it’s highly unlikely, but the new thimble height would allow for such stove being 34”-40” to the stove top).

YOU MUST ALSO HAVE PLENTY of CLEARANCE BETWEEN ANY HORIZONTAL SECTION of STOVEPIPE and the CEILING.

In a large open room with high ceilings I’d go as high as I could so long as it looks good and you have clearance above the stove pipe. The higher the pipe rises straight off of the stove the better it will draft and even then adding double insulated stove pipe from the top of the stove to the chimney will also increase draft even more.

Provided you don’t have “super draft” already, anything you do to increase the draft should allow you to run the stove at a slightly lower setting than when using a shorter run of single wall stove pipe. I’m talking about you creating your best OPTIMAL draft here. Doesn’t take optimal draft to run the stove, but optimal extends your woods heating capacity, making it last longer or help you use less wood. Optimal draft increases the stove’s efficiency as well.

How high is your ceiling inside the room above the stove at chimney?

How high is the outside top of the chimney?

Also, how many square feet are you trying to heat? (Looks like that Baby Bear was having to work harder than necessary for such a large looking space.)

Answering these questions will help you get better responses.

Begreen and BHoller will can help guide you and also guide you on my thoughts and considerations. That is, they’ll need more specifics from you to implement my thoughts and their own.

Beautiful place you have there.
(Also keep in mind that little Baby Bear is a radiant space heater meaning it will warm walls, floors, and other objects in the room giving a much warmer feel than a convection only stove. Keep that in mind when buying a new stove or you will likely be greatly disappointed. You will want a stove that gives off some radiant heat and convection heat at the same time (from top and sides of stove…stoves with side shields might disappoint).
 
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Maybe a Woodstock stove would fit or a Jotul F35 or F45 with a short leg kit?
Yes, that was my first thought Todd but the F45 with the short leg kit come in at 26 1/4" to the top. The F35 comes in at 25 1/2" so it's too high too. The discontinued Hampton H200 could go lower I think but it looks like the best plan is to raise the thimble height. That will open up choices.
 
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It appears the situation is about as I expected. My question is, can a handy person DIY this. My husband installed our stove downstairs and the sweep actually tried to sell his business to him because he had done such a good job. We need at least 15 feet run on the chimney correct ?
 
Yes, if he is thorough, installing a new liner and thimble can be a DIY project. The degree of complication will depend on the condition of the existing chimney and the ID of the chimney tile.

Note that every 90º turn in the flue path results in a reduction of draft, roughly equivalent to = 2ft per 90º turn. If the chimney is on the short side, stick with easy-breathing stoves that will work on a 12-13' flue system. Canadian stoves from Regency, Pacific Energy and Osburn (or Drolet) usually fall in this group.
 
Yes, if he is thorough, installing a new liner and thimble can be a DIY project. The degree of complication will depend on the condition of the existing chimney and the ID of the chimney tile.

Note that every 90º turn in the flue path results in a reduction of draft, roughly equivalent to = 2ft per 90º turn. If the chimney is on the short side, stick with easy-breathing stoves that will work on a 12-13' flue system. Canadian stoves from Regency, Pacific Energy and Osburn (or Drolet) usually fall in this group.
Perfect. We should be able to handle that. Thanks!