Replacing BioMass Nozzle

Post in 'The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces' started by Tennman, Jan 12, 2013.

  1. Tennman

    Tennman
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    Well you know what assume means.... "A__ of you and me". I assumed it would be obvious how to get out the old nozzle this morning and now I can't reach anyone at New Horizons on a Saturday. So... Anyone have any idea if the side sloping blocks need to come out to remove the nozzle? Do you guys typically bust up the old nozzle to get it out? I'm inclined to take a chisel to it to get in pieces since there is so much build up around the perimeter. Weather 65F today so perfect day for a rebuild. Any insight appreciated.
     
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  2. henfruit

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    Call Mark @ AHONA
     
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  3. taxidermist

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    wow wore out already? lets see a pic

    Rob
     
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  4. BoilerMan

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    Yeah, how much wood do you put through that thing annually? I mean if it's 65 in January......... We just saw our first day above freezing since before Christmas today and it's up to 34F right now!

    TS
     
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  5. mikefrommaine

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    Side blocks in upper chamber come out first. Then just lift straight up on the nozzle. You can put the hook tool that came with the boiler through the slot and pull up on that to get it started. Should come out in one piece.
     
  6. Tennman

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    Yeah Rob, I should have measured the nozzle top opening before giving up today. But I'm going to guess the top opening is about twice the bottom. I'm seeing am increase in larger coals in the bottom chamber. It's in it's four season so I don't know if that's good or bad. Had one of the 4 bottom ceramics break in half so I just ordered a nozzle along with the bottom ceramics.

    So mike I guess those 4 top chamber sides kinda rotate inward from the top then pull out? I fired her up again for tonight. I'll let y'all know. Might give it a go again tomorrow.
     
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  7. mikefrommaine

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    Yes but you've got to get the creosote scraped away from the edges. It kind of glues them in place.

    When you put the new nozzle in I'd definitely get some firebricks and make an overlay. I've been using my overlay for a few weeks now and it works fine with no signs of erosion anywhere.
     
  8. woodsmaster

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    I bought a new one but the patch I did on the old one is wearing very well so I haven't changed it. I would only replace the broken piece in the bottom besides the nozzle. The front two and door piece wear out first. You can probably get a lot more time out of the back pieces.
     
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  9. taxidermist

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    HMM maybe some day i should look at mine. LOL My bottom blocks broke 2 years ago but i am still using them and they are working fine. I did make a pattern of one so when i get ready i will just cast new ones.
     
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  10. Tennman

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    Mike, How thick are your firebricks? If they are not too thick... say maybe ~1" I may just start using them to protect the stock nozzle ceramic. Obviously most of the erosion happens right at the opening corner and grows from there. My nozzle exit into the lower chamber is probably near stock, but I'm guessing the opening width in the upper chamber has just about doubled. I think an expendable layer would really be smart to protect that entrance edge and much easier to replace every couple of years.

    Rob and all, I'd say my consumption is in the 3-4 chord/year and has gotten much better in the last two seasons because it took me really 3 years to get to properly seasoned wood. Amazing the difference to be burning hickory and oak that's been under shelter for at least 18 months thru the heat of a southern summer. So I don't know if my nozzle erosion is excessive but for me the total savings in keeping our old house warm with the BioMass, a nozzle replacement every 4 years is in the noise. It's not a cost but a replacement time issue. I know I'm losing efficiency tho because of the size of coals ending up in the lower chamber are getting bigger instead of fine ash.

    BTW, one thing I'm doing VERY different this season is not emptying the ashes in the lower chamber so frequently. First two seasons I was trying to keep seeing that nice ceramic chamber clean and free. I've found keeping coals down there doesn't hurt anything and heat soaks the water when the boiler goes to idle. But I think the presence of coals in the lower chamber is a product of me not having storage. Next season when I'm able to run wide open, I expect my boiler "poop" to look much different.
     
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  11. rkusek

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    He said "poop".
     
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  12. mikefrommaine

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    The bricks are 1.25 inches.
     
  13. taxidermist

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    I dont empty my lower but 1 time a week. I only empty my upper chamber 1 time a year right after my last burn.

    Rob
     
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  14. Tennman

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    Yeah..... boiler poop.... ashes. Talks to me about the health of my burns. Lately my boiler poop has had a lot of clinkers which I think is related to my nozzle erosion. Doesn't everyone read their boiler poop?? ;lol

    That's about how I'm emptying now Rob. In my early years I didn't realize how many btus I was putting in my ash wheelbarrow. Really? only clean the upper chamber at end of season... Once I get storage and burn hot down to ashes I may be able to do the same. Really having a tough time finding propane tanks and when I do they're about $1/gal... 500 gal ~ $500 so not a huge savings over just buying tanks from AHONA. Not done looking but now convinced storage is gonna be SWEET.

    Mike, I have a lot of steel plate around the shop. I've heard of folks making grates, etc. I wonder if a 3/8" steel nozzle opening would last longer than ceramic brick. Regardless I think I'll try to find some of that fire brick to create my own expendable nozzle entrance. A firebrick thickness of 1.25" should work pretty well, now just gotta find some. Cheers... gotta go make money.
     
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