Replacing shocks - any suggestions?

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kevinmerchant

Member
Jul 29, 2009
114
Cheshire, CT
I am a little lost with all the choices. The prices range from $25 - $120. Any advice? My truck is a 2002 Chevy 1500HD 2wd.
 
Spend as much as you can afford. Cheap ones won't last very long and the better, pricier ones will give a better ride and last longer. I can't recommend any brand. Maybe check on a Chevy truck forum.
 
Bilstein!
 
Agree on the bilstiens
 
Flatbedford said:
Spend as much as you can afford. Cheap ones won't last very long and the better, pricier ones will give a better ride and last longer. I can't recommend any brand. Maybe check on a Chevy truck forum.

X 100.. Spend the money... You will "Feel" the difference. Pro-Comp makes a Cheap shock that works well (i have bought them/ only lasted 2 years).. You get what you pay for.
 
Depends on what is available for the truck. You might want to check on KYBs if they don't make Bilsteins for it.

This site has good prices and reviews:
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/index.jsp

Edit: Looks like they have Bilsteins for your Chevy at $66/shock.
 
Bilsteins are awesome shocks for regular replacement (there are other options for lifted vehicles and modified vehicles but all around for regular replacement options, Bilteins are awesome. Hope this helps.
 
Thanks guys. I went with the Bilstein 5100 serious, not the blue /yellow ones, went a step up for the silver. I dont think the light blue and yellow would look very good in the wheel well plus the silver are a grade up. Found them from an ebay seller for $262 for the set of 4. Cant wait to get them. The ride is pretty bad right now. I believe the original shocks are still on at 135k.

Next are the rotors. For some reason they seem to be corroded or something. Only about a third of the pad is hitting the rotor because of the corrosion. Any suggestions on a good set of rotors and pads?
 
Sounds like it might be a sticky piston in the disk caliper. If that is the case, replacing pads and rotors won't help. The calipers may need rebuilding or replacing.
 
BeGreen said:
Sounds like it might be a sticky piston in the disk caliper. If that is the case, replacing pads and rotors won't help. The calipers may need rebuilding or replacing.
Prob a caliper problem. Not as horrible as it sounds, not free, but not thousands of bucks either. Are both sides doing it?
 
BeGreen said:
Sounds like it might be a sticky piston in the disk caliper. If that is the case, replacing pads and rotors won't help. The calipers may need rebuilding or replacing.

This advice times two. As an explanation even IF the rotors were rusty surfaced from sitting for some time, a properly working caliper will clamp the pads tightly and strip all the rust off within a few miles of mild driving. If there is constant corrosion on the rotor's surface despite driving the truck it most likely means either that the piston/s of the caliper/s are seized or much less likely that there are voids in the brake pad's surface. Either which way it is a lack of correct contact between pad and rotor.

Rebuilding the calipers is a pretty simple procedure for anyone with moderate mechanical skills, next easiest would simply be sourcing "reman" or "rebuilt" calipers and installing those yourself, and of course next easiest would be taking it to a trusted mechanic. Each degree of easier of course costs more money but if you have enough mechanical experience to DIY I'd advise doing that. As already noted, in most cases this isn't the costliest of procedures unless you wait for real damage done to other things. Hope this helps.

Ohh, I am of the mind that when it comes to brakes, steering or suspension components you ALWAYS replace/repair both sides equally.
 
turbocruiser said:
Ohh, I am of the mind that when it comes to brakes, steering or suspension components you ALWAYS replace/repair both sides equally.
Agreed. Calipers are generally considered to be ok to replace independently, but I still like to do em in pairs.
 
I'm almost certain its not a caliper problem. All the pads have equal wear. Its some kind of surface issue with the rotors. On the front wheels the outside surface's seem ok but the insides only have the middle third of the rotor shiny where the pads are flat. The rear its the inside and outsides. The rotor surface is actually convex or bumped out on the outside and inside of the diameter, like a bulls-eye pattern. The amount of bumped out part varies on the 4 rotors. I have dealt with bad calipers on previous cars. One particular wheel will have significantly less pad then the others.
I'll have my buddy check it out when he replaces the shocks. Any recommendations on a good set of rotors and pads?

By the way, when I called the local dealer to get a price on the shocks, they wanted $206 each for the front and $117 each for the rear. The shocks I ordered are I believe better then the oe and they will be about $70 each. I'm all for supporting the local guys, being one myself but that just seems over kill.
 
burn it said:
I'm almost certain its not a caliper problem. All the pads have equal wear. Its some kind of surface issue with the rotors. On the front wheels the outside surface's seem ok but the insides only have the middle third of the rotor shiny where the pads are flat. The rear its the inside and outsides. The rotor surface is actually convex or bumped out on the outside and inside of the diameter, like a bulls-eye pattern. The amount of bumped out part varies on the 4 rotors. I have dealt with bad calipers on previous cars. One particular wheel will have significantly less pad then the others.
I'll have my buddy check it out when he replaces the shocks. Any recommendations on a good set of rotors and pads?

By the way, when I called the local dealer to get a price on the shocks, they wanted $206 each for the front and $117 each for the rear. The shocks I ordered are I believe better then the oe and they will be about $70 each. I'm all for supporting the local guys, being one myself but that just seems over kill.

Any update about all this? I'd love to learn what caused those particular patterns. Thanks.
 
burn it said:
Thanks guys. I went with the Bilstein 5100 serious, not the blue /yellow ones, went a step up for the silver. I dont think the light blue and yellow would look very good in the wheel well plus the silver are a grade up. Found them from an ebay seller for $262 for the set of 4. Cant wait to get them. The ride is pretty bad right now. I believe the original shocks are still on at 135k.

Next are the rotors. For some reason they seem to be corroded or something. Only about a third of the pad is hitting the rotor because of the corrosion. Any suggestions on a good set of rotors and pads?

You're getting good advice here. Definitely check your caliper pins/pistons. I have seen this issue on a few GM's of your vintage. Do your rotors appear to be "de-laminating"? I'm pretty sure sure GM built a batch of rotors from recycled pop cans :lol: and you're not the only one suffering the results.

My recommendation? I replaced my dad's rotors ('03 2500HD Ext Cab, DuraMax) with Advance Auto's premium line parts and I have recently been using NAPA Ultra-Premium Rotors and Adaptive One pads with excellent results. Get new slides/clips and make sure your caliper pins/boots are good. Usually on these trucks the rotors rust inside the "hat" and create an interference fit with the hub/parking brake. They require a good bit of "persuasion" or a puller setup to remove. Also, GM uses a thread locking compound on the caliper bracket bolts, send a little heat down 'em with a propane torch to make your life much easier. No need to get them red hot or discolor them, 30 sec is plenty.

It's worth noting that I was able to replace the calipers on a 2000 Chevy Half-Ton with 4 Wheel Disc brakes for less than $60 per wheel using NAPA rebuilt calipers.
 
burn it said:
I'm almost certain its not a caliper problem. All the pads have equal wear. Its some kind of surface issue with the rotors. On the front wheels the outside surface's seem ok but the insides only have the middle third of the rotor shiny where the pads are flat. The rear its the inside and outsides. The rotor surface is actually convex or bumped out on the outside and inside of the diameter, like a bulls-eye pattern. The amount of bumped out part varies on the 4 rotors. I have dealt with bad calipers on previous cars. One particular wheel will have significantly less pad then the others.
I'll have my buddy check it out when he replaces the shocks. Any recommendations on a good set of rotors and pads?

By the way, when I called the local dealer to get a price on the shocks, they wanted $206 each for the front and $117 each for the rear. The shocks I ordered are I believe better then the oe and they will be about $70 each. I'm all for supporting the local guys, being one myself but that just seems over kill.

Rotors have to be pretty bad (under-thickness or fundamental metallurgical problem) to just toss them. Think "brake lathe."

And, I'd be very curious about the convexity of the rotors.
 
burn it said:
Thanks guys. I went with the Bilstein 5100 serious, not the blue /yellow ones, went a step up for the silver. I dont think the light blue and yellow would look very good in the wheel well plus the silver are a grade up. Found them from an ebay seller for $262 for the set of 4. Cant wait to get them. The ride is pretty bad right now. I believe the original shocks are still on at 135k.

Next are the rotors. For some reason they seem to be corroded or something. Only about a third of the pad is hitting the rotor because of the corrosion. Any suggestions on a good set of rotors and pads?

Rear brakes or front? In my opinion, rear disc brakess sound great from a performance perspective but in actuality are a terrible idea if you live in winter-road-salt or even gritty back road driving locations. Front discs stay relatively clean, back discs get a constant diet of grit and corrosive materials that cause the slides to stick, etc. I know this from bitter experience on several vehicles that self-destructed their rear brakes, in their entirety (rotors and calipers) from such jam-ups, one at under 10,000 miles from new (a 99 Ford F250SD) and the other 18,000 miles from new (07 Honda Element). If you have rear discs, cleaning and lubing the slides is going to be a required drill to not have re-runs. Thrilled to now be driving an "obsolete" vehicle with good ol' rear drum brakes...
 
Just replaced the shocks on my f350 and went with the bilstein 5100. Got them from rock auto for like $219 shipped. Great shocks.

Also replaced brakes and rotors on it at the same time (along with unit bearings, ball joints, hubs, universals, etc.). I was having a half pad contact too, but it was due to the unit bearing and one frozen slide pin. Wasn't messing with cutting the rotors...only one was good enough.

Brakes are not the components to cheap out on.
 
CTYank said:
burn it said:
I'm almost certain its not a caliper problem. All the pads have equal wear. Its some kind of surface issue with the rotors. On the front wheels the outside surface's seem ok but the insides only have the middle third of the rotor shiny where the pads are flat. The rear its the inside and outsides. The rotor surface is actually convex or bumped out on the outside and inside of the diameter, like a bulls-eye pattern. The amount of bumped out part varies on the 4 rotors. I have dealt with bad calipers on previous cars. One particular wheel will have significantly less pad then the others.
I'll have my buddy check it out when he replaces the shocks. Any recommendations on a good set of rotors and pads?

By the way, when I called the local dealer to get a price on the shocks, they wanted $206 each for the front and $117 each for the rear. The shocks I ordered are I believe better then the oe and they will be about $70 each. I'm all for supporting the local guys, being one myself but that just seems over kill.

Rotors have to be pretty bad (under-thickness or fundamental metallurgical problem) to just toss them. Think "brake lathe."

And, I'd be very curious about the convexity of the rotors.

In this case, turning these rotors will no doubt just enable re-use of a poor quality part if they can be turned down without exceeding minimum thickness. The damage is usually pretty severe. I've seen more than one GM truck from the early 2000's with delaminating front and rear rotors.
 
While you're at it check the brake lines going into the ABS module. Mine just blew out due to rusting through. I looked it up on the NHTSA site and there are quite a few blowing out on 99-03 trucks.
 
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