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  1. begreen Super Moderator

    joined: Nov 18, 2005
    36,436 posts
    South Puget Sound, WA
    If you can get up on the roof you might want to try a temporary extension to the chimney to see how this helps. Get a 4ft length of 6" round warm air duct pipe from the store. On a calm day, pull the chimney cap and cram the vent pipe, crimp down into chimney. If you can, anchor it with a couple screws. Fire up the stove and see how she runs. If it's radically better, the issue is marginal draft.
    #26

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  2. Diabel Minister of Fire

    joined: Jan 11, 2008
    800 posts
    Ottawa, ON
    Is there a wood supplier out there that sells seasoned (13-16%) oak?
    Sorry but have my doubts.
    corey21 and BrowningBAR like this.
  3. mfhmfh Member

    joined: Oct 19, 2007
    10 posts
    VA
    Agree on the MC of the wood. If true, it would really be a one of the first for a burner to find a seller with truly seasoned wood without havng to spend years finding that one jewel.

    I would swap the wood…and then extend the pipe…and then consider swapping the stove. She is pretty where she sets and although good and bad reviews exist for every unit, I would like to think you can get this one to work for you.
  4. Diabel Minister of Fire

    joined: Jan 11, 2008
    800 posts
    Ottawa, ON
    +1
    I would start with the least expensive option!
  5. bobabuoy New Member

    joined: Jan 26, 2011
    38 posts
    IL
    I went out to check another couple of pieces of oak and found the first split was 15% (I was happy with this), and the second split was 20% (not so happy here). Overall, I have a range from 13.5% to 20% with most hovering around 16%. I would think that this is a pretty good lot of wood for the average woodburner. If this would is not dry enough, then most likely, this is not the stove for me.

    I do still feel that the chimney height is perhaps an issue and will likely try adding some more height. The question really becomes - how much more do I need to add to see a significant difference? Is there a chart that shows this?
  6. BrowningBAR Minister of Fire

    joined: Jul 22, 2008
    7,103 posts
    Doylestown, PA
    Again, are you taking a split, splitting that in half, and testing the freshly split section?
  7. bobabuoy New Member

    joined: Jan 26, 2011
    38 posts
    IL
    Yes.
  8. bobabuoy New Member

    joined: Jan 26, 2011
    38 posts
    IL
    Just realized I was wrong about my chimney height and the required height. I re-measured and found that I have 15'6" and the minimum is 16ft in the manual. Now keep in mind, this is after having a qualified installer install the stove and chimney, and then call them back to tell them the manual said I needed more height on the chimney (originally they left me with a 12'6" chimney).
  9. begreen Super Moderator

    joined: Nov 18, 2005
    36,436 posts
    South Puget Sound, WA
    try adding a 4ft section temporarily and see if it dramatically improves operation.
  10. bcphillips Member

    joined: Feb 25, 2011
    7 posts
    Eastern Shore of Maryland
    As an VC 2n1 owner who understands the tribulations of getting these things to operate, I agree with your post all things said and done.
  11. Bub381 Minister of Fire

    joined: Feb 4, 2011
    841 posts
    Mid-coast Maine
    In all seriousness and the troubles of the company,get rid of the damned thing while ya can still get something for it and go get ya a Fireview.Catch that sail,may even get a return for cheap.You wont want to pay for the parts when it goes to pieces and good luck with service.
  12. bcphillips Member

    joined: Feb 25, 2011
    7 posts
    Eastern Shore of Maryland
    I think I'm going to hang on a while longer. I only purchased my stove in 2010 (when the 2N1 technology came out) and if I can operate it correctly, it really does offer some amazing efficiency. The only trade off is that after all is said and done to prevent the backpuffing (above) the stove cannot be operated at low or medium temps. If I try to do that, it will most definitely backpuff. As such, my draft can be completely shut and the stove will hold at 600+ degrees for hours and hours. It's amazing, but at the same time annoying if I don't want all that heat in the first place. What doesn't the EPA understand about me wanting a 10-12 hour burn time without having my stove go above 400 degrees? My poor house gets to 78-80 degrees in no time. When we wake up, we have enough coals to start another fire and the house is around 70, which is really nice in the winter. Not what I was expecting when I bought the stove. They should warn people that the temps cannot be controlled.
  13. begreen Super Moderator

    joined: Nov 18, 2005
    36,436 posts
    South Puget Sound, WA
    Increase the draft a bit by extending the chimney. That should help with the backpuffs.

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