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Resolute III questions

Post in 'Vermont Castings & CDW Dutchwest older Models' started by Clairee, Nov 20, 2013.

  1. Clairee

    Clairee New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5
    Loc:
    Nova Scotia
    So after reading the Wiki "operate an older VC Resolute" my next project is to remove the plate and clean behind the damper as I doubt it's been done lately. Although I've done routine maintenance and re-cemented a Defiant I've never taken a VC stove apart so have a bit of trepidation about doing this, but I assume it can't be too complicated as it's something that should be done once or twice per season -- anything in particular I should watch for or be aware of? Is there gasket that will need to be replaced?

    stove 2.JPG

    The stove doesn't appear to be warped (but hey, what do I know??) however there are a couple of small cracks in the fireback -- is this a problem? Should they be cemented?

    right fireback crack.JPG

    left fireback crack.JPG


    The tops (circles) of the andirons were removed but the andirons are solid - any potential problems here?

    Should the seams in the firebox (hope I'm using the right terms) be filled with stove/furnace cement?

    Claire

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  2. webbie

    webbie Seasoned Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2005
    Messages:
    12,379
    Loc:
    Western Mass.
    I wouldn't worry about those small cracks in the fireback....

    Taking any older stove apart can cause problems....broken bolts being the most common! If you can take the stove outside and have a good vacuum and/or leaf blower, you may be able to get most of the ash out of the rear chambers with air pressure. I don't think you have to take it apart twice a season! Maybe one cleaning late each spring will do....and, this usually does not involve taking the stove apart - or at least not most of it.

    You should be able to dig up a service manual or at least a good parts lists - as I remember, you have to remove a "horn" from the lower part of the inside of the stove, and that lets you snake a boiler brush and vacuum hose in there. Between that and getting into it with the collar removed, you should be able to get it fairly clean.

    As to whether you need to re-cement, use the old droplight test. Put a light inside it in a dark room and see if you can see anything through the seams. If so, dampen those areas and cement from the inside.

    Looks like this is the parts list. If you can get that large right side interior inner part off, you are golden in terms of getting to the entire thing to clean it, but again you have to watch for frozen or rusted bolts.
    http://www.discountstove.com/0043.html
  3. Clairee

    Clairee New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5
    Loc:
    Nova Scotia
    ACK! This lsouonds waaay beyond my 'abilities'. I guess the big question is, should I leave well enough alone or attempt to take the top plate off and clean behind and under the damper area?

    Thanks so much for your help.
    C
  4. webbie

    webbie Seasoned Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2005
    Messages:
    12,379
    Loc:
    Western Mass.
    Yes, I'd say just clean out what you can see and get to! It doesn't look too clogged up. When they fill with fly ash you'd see it up to the level of those holes in the fireback.

    The leaf blower trick is always good if you get it outside....
  5. Clairee

    Clairee New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5
    Loc:
    Nova Scotia
    Getting back to the stove after spending yesterday putting in 3 cords of beautiful seasoned 16" maple (so much easier than those huge 22" logs for the Defiant).
    When I cleaned the Resolute I poked the holes in the fireback with a metal skewer and the ash cleared easily so assume I couldn't have done that if that area were clogged up. Now I'll replace the griddle gasket, connect the stovepipe and be able to get the stove going this afternoon.

    Thanks!
    C

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