Results of my sweep, what do you think?

[tarzan]

I think most of the creosote was near where the cast iron sleeve enters the chimney. I did not see much at the top or the middle. My chimney is around 24' but the sleeve enters around 6' up from the bottom.

I run my stove pretty open a lot of the time. Mostly 2/3 throttle.I don't stoke the fire a lot, not needed.

Bingo! Higher than believed mc and msybe loading 10 minutes before bed and shutting it down. Instead load, burn hot for 45 min of so, then shut down. Deal with moisture at higher temps....IN ALL STOVES.

Really, you suspect wet wood contributed more than the chimney setup?

 

[begreen]

Could be a combo of wood and operator exacerbated by a cool chimney. The OP did say the MC was higher than desired.

 

[mwhitnee]

I thought the whole point of a catalytic stove is that there is nothing left at the end? Just water and hot air?

If there is that much soot, wouldn't it be saying something is very wrong? Like the cat is plugged/not functioning/not being used?

The cat was removed. It's perfect.

 

[BKVP]

The cat was removed. It's perfect.

So you are running the stove without the catalytic combustor?

 

[mwhitnee]

So you are running the stove without the catalytic combustor?

No of course not, just cleaned behind it. The cat was so clean I didn't even vacuum it. It has a new gasket and is installed.

When I load the stove (after it's been running), It's always on max for a while. Maybe not 45 minutes, but I always give the new wood some good time to burn off some moisture. Given that, there is at times a small pool of water at the bottom of my chimney. I had posted about this before.

I believe Begreen is right. I think the lower flue gas temps going into a cold chimney with higher than desired MC is the answer.

How would one know if their bypass gasket is faulty? I really don't think mine is...

 

[Highbeam]

Sorry...clarify this for me please. Cat stoves have, on average, much lower particulate emissions. Is the by pass sealing? How long is by pass left open? And more...

Love my BK and would never go back to the non-cats for primary heat but here's the truth:

My current NC30 barn stove blows a 1.63 gph.
http://www.heatredefined.com/englander/stove/englander-1800-2200-sq.-ft.-wood-stove

My previous house stove the Hearthstone Heritage blew a 2.77 gph.
http://www.hearthstonestoves.com/store/wood-products/wood-stoves/heritage

My current BK princess house stove blows a 2.42 gph.
http://www.blazeking.com/EN/wood-princess.html

So the BK makes above average pollution in my case. Add to that the fact that the flue temperatures run nearly half as high as the non-cats and you have a recipe for greater flue deposits. Plus, in my experience and in the experience of other members, the flue deposits of the BK are blacker and thicker than what the inefficient non-cats put out. I might mention that I tend to burn on low settings 90% of the time which is supposed to be the cleanest and most efficient setting, it's also the magical setting for the BK.

The good news is that many folks have converted from non-cat to BK. I don't know any that would go back, they're that good. It also means that plenty have experienced the increased flue deposits and that new converts should expect it too. Other cat stoves burn hotter, less efficient, and reportedly have less flue deposits which is fine if you don't mind the shorter burn times.

To your other questions, yes the bypass is sealing. The gasket is evenly compressed and the bypass cams over with a satisfying click to lock it in. Bypass is left open until the cat probe is well past the active line. My stove was installed with a flue length that matched the manual, 12' total, but since then your manual has changed to require 15' for new stoves.

Stove is great. Wood is 2 to 3 year seasoned softwoods. Members should expect moderate amounts of black creo when sweeping a chimney above the BK.