Retrofit harvester chain onto stihl saw

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kubota

New Member
Nov 6, 2010
20
Southeastern Oklahoma
Hello gentleman,

I am not completely "up" on all of the correct terminology relating to saw chains... I was wondering if someone might be able to help me out a little bit. So when selecting a chain saw chain, one has to have the correct bar and drive sprocket on their saw. Now, how would one do that, besides what the packages say? Do the different "pitches" of chains correlate to the "pitch" of the drive sprocket? Or are drive sprockets all the same? What I am wondering - now, this may be stupid - is could a person take any bar that has the suitable "gauge" width and install a chain of that same variety? Could I install a "mechanical timber harvester chain" on a Stihl MS660, and what would be the advantages in doing this? From what I understand the harvester chains last much longer than regular chains.

If there is anything you all could throw out there that would help me understand chain saw chains, sizing and intercharge, please don't hold back. Thanks.
 
It can be done I believe its 404 set up but 3/8 would suit a 660 much better than a harvester set-up by a land slide!

I run 3/8 on a 880 as well.
 
Roger that. You are probably right... Just out of curiosity...

Help me understand this... To get it to work with either of these chains....
chains.jpg


I would need to buy a different drive sprocket for the saw?? One that is sized for .404?? Or is the one on there suitable for 3/8" as well as .404?? Also, the bar would need to be any bar that is .080 wide??
 
kubota said:
Roger that. You are probably right... Just out of curiosity...

Help me understand this... To get it to work with either of these chains....
chains.jpg


I would need to buy a different drive sprocket for the saw?? One that is sized for .404?? Or is the one on there suitable for 3/8" as well as .404?? Also, the bar would need to be any bar that is .080 wide??


You need the bar and sprocket to match...Havster is much wider than what a normal saw runs..WHAT and WHY ARE YOU TRYING TO DO HERE?
 
Harvester chain isn't going to last any longer on a chainsaw than normal chain.
It's made to resist stretching/breaking due to the drive power of hydraulics that a chainsaw don't have. If you think you're going to sharpen less because it's much harder think again.
Harvester bars also won't fit a chainsaw due to different design.
 
A-cord-ingLEE said:
Harvester chain isn't going to last any longer on a chainsaw than normal chain.
It's made to resist stretching/breaking due to the drive power of hydraulics that a chainsaw don't have. If you think you're going to sharpen less because it's much harder think again.
Harvester bars also won't fit a chainsaw due to different design.


+1 trying to find some logic here...
 
A-cord-ingLEE said:
Harvester chain isn't going to last any longer on a chainsaw than normal chain.
It's made to resist stretching/breaking due to the drive power of hydraulics that a chainsaw don't have. If you think you're going to sharpen less because it's much harder think again.
Harvester bars also won't fit a chainsaw due to different design.

Oh ok, I have been mislead.
 
kubota said:
A-cord-ingLEE said:
Harvester chain isn't going to last any longer on a chainsaw than normal chain.
It's made to resist stretching/breaking due to the drive power of hydraulics that a chainsaw don't have. If you think you're going to sharpen less because it's much harder think again.
Harvester bars also won't fit a chainsaw due to different design.

Oh ok, I have been mislead.

Not only will it not stay sharp any longer its going to pull down your saw trying to cut a wider kerf.
 
A-cord-ingLEE said:
I woodn't waste your money putting it on a chainsaw.
Just buy a regular 404 pitch chain and bar.
If anything I wood run half or full skip 3/8 before going to 404.
+100
 
smokinjay said:
kubota said:
A-cord-ingLEE said:
Harvester chain isn't going to last any longer on a chainsaw than normal chain.
It's made to resist stretching/breaking due to the drive power of hydraulics that a chainsaw don't have. If you think you're going to sharpen less because it's much harder think again.
Harvester bars also won't fit a chainsaw due to different design.

Oh ok, I have been mislead.

Not only will it not stay sharp any longer its going to pull down your saw trying to cut a wider kerf.

Thats another good point. 404 will put a bigger chip in the kerf to hog out = loss of power.
 
I am glad I found this....

This morning at the dealer I was asking for prices on a 36 inch bar for the 064/066 as I am now going to run the 28 on the 046..Now he told me my best bet was .063 over .050 and .404 over .325...Sound the opposite from what I just read...

I was surprised to find that they had one of the best deals if not the best deal on a 36 inch bar,, 3/8 .050 36 inch $75 But again he is recommending .063 over .050..

Now with what I read here a .050 will have a smaller foot print robbing less power that is correct sir???? Or will a bigger tooth stealing a little power but removing more at a time?????

Who has time sheets????
 
southbound said:
I am glad I found this....

This morning at the dealer I was asking for prices on a 36 inch bar for the 064/066 as I am now going to run the 28 on the 046..Now he told me my best bet was .063 over .050 and .404 over .325...Sound the opposite from what I just read...

I was surprised to find that they had one of the best deals if not the best deal on a 36 inch bar,, 3/8 .050 36 inch $75 But again he is recommending .063 over .050..

Now with what I read here a .050 will have a smaller foot print robbing less power that is correct sir???? Or will a bigger tooth stealing a little power but removing more at a time?????

Who has time sheets????

The bigger the gauge the wider the tooth. Unless your into selling sawdust I personally wood stick with 3/8, .050. That 404 big gauge stuff is for BIG saws in big softwoods and harvesters,deck saws and processors where hydro power is used to feed the bar/chain. I wood try half or full skip 3/8 before going to 404.
 
Why are you trying to throw money at something that doesn't need it to be thrown at it? By going so specialized you are just asking for more expensive equipment replacement costs for no appreciable benefit.
 
A-cord-ingLEE said:
southbound said:
I am glad I found this....

This morning at the dealer I was asking for prices on a 36 inch bar for the 064/066 as I am now going to run the 28 on the 046..Now he told me my best bet was .063 over .050 and .404 over .325...Sound the opposite from what I just read...

I was surprised to find that they had one of the best deals if not the best deal on a 36 inch bar,, 3/8 .050 36 inch $75 But again he is recommending .063 over .050..

Now with what I read here a .050 will have a smaller foot print robbing less power that is correct sir???? Or will a bigger tooth stealing a little power but removing more at a time?????

Who has time sheets????

The bigger the gauge the wider the tooth. Unless your into selling sawdust I personally wood stick with 3/8, .050. That 404 big gauge stuff is for BIG saws in big softwoods and harvesters,deck saws and processors where hydro power is used to feed the bar/chain. I wood try half or full skip 3/8 before going to 404.


+1 I run the .050 on a 880 as well smaller kerf quicker saw......... Wonder what he would recommend for a 880? lol 3/8,.050 is the way to go!
 
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