RMND units - a pattern to which ones overtemp?

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

I ask because it sounds like 13(GreenFire) overtemps regularly. There is a new guy here (Seton) that is overtemping (may be air in the system though). I (GreenWood) only overtemp with electric outages. I have no dump zone.

Trying to figure this out. What's the pattern?

Is there a difference between Seton, Adobe, GreenWood and GreenFire that allows this difference in operation?

Is there a difference based upon whether the units are open or closed?

Jimbo

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

A couple of days after I installed I was getting super heated conditions very quickly. Called the dealer at the time (This Warm House) Mansfield PA. They suggested a larger circulator pump. Changed from a 007 to an 011 and have never come close to a boil over since. Had to keep the water moving faster or higher volume to grab the heat out of the internal exchange tubes. Just my 4 cents. Damn inflation.

Hmmm . . .

So I go check mine . . .

0010-F3 out on the GW
007-F5 on the inside loop

And now I remember that the 007 WAS on the GW, but we switched it out with the 10 and brought the 007 inside.

Maybe we're on to something? I wish I knew even just a little bit about plumbing and flow . . . cause I've often wondered if changing the flow rate based on the water temp would let the unit heat up faster on startup. I think if you could speed up the flow enough, you could keep the damper open more.

Anyway . . .

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

I would expect that you need to keep the flow moving right along with this water tube boiler. Thats the downside, the + is that this should pick up heat quite nicely, it's an interesting design. Maybe that fancy variable speed Grundfoss would be just the ticket for this boiler, Randy