Rotary tile breaker

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What about additional rods for longer length to reach down into the chimney. I have 14' of chimney
What about them? You will need enough rods to run the lenght of your chimney. But i will say it again you can do allot of damage to your chimney or yourself if you dont know what you are doing
 
What about them? You will need enough rods to run the lenght of your chimney. But i will say it again you can do allot of damage to your chimney or yourself if you dont know what you are doing
that website isnt showing the additional rods to reach down into my chimney. where did you buy yours?
If I decide to do this myself I would think using good common sense will play a huge factor. Take my time, slow rpm on the drill, a little at a time.
thanks!!
 
where did you buy yours?
We buy them from any number of pro chimney supply places. Pretty much which ever one has the best price when we need more.

If I decide to do this myself I would think using good common sense will play a huge factor. Take my time, slow rpm on the drill, a little at a time.
Not low rpm that wont work you need a 1/2" drill with a second handle so you can hold onto it And you run full speed with that drill. The 1/2" drills run slower than 3/8 and have the torque you need to run a breaker. Then you break 2 or 3 feet at a time then shovel out the bottom and repeat till you are done. The main thing is keep it moving up and down don't run in one spot to long. And be ready for it to grab if it does it is going to whip around and it will hurt. I almost always wear my harness when i am breaking because of this i have been smacked in the face with the drill enough times to know i want to bee hooked up when i am doing it. If it is a fire place some guys break from the bottom but then you have broken clay chunks falling down at you.
 
We buy them from any number of pro chimney supply places. Pretty much which ever one has the best price when we need more.


Not low rpm that wont work you need a 1/2" drill with a second handle so you can hold onto it And you run full speed with that drill. The 1/2" drills run slower than 3/8 and have the torque you need to run a breaker. Then you break 2 or 3 feet at a time then shovel out the bottom and repeat till you are done. The main thing is keep it moving up and down don't run in one spot to long. And be ready for it to grab if it does it is going to whip around and it will hurt. I almost always wear my harness when i am breaking because of this i have been smacked in the face with the drill enough times to know i want to bee hooked up when i am doing it. If it is a fire place some guys break from the bottom but then you have broken clay chunks falling down at you.
I found the following http://www.xpressfireplacestoves.com/rovac-116432-buttonlok-flue-buster/
at the bottom of the page it shows poly and steel rods.
Any preference of the two?
I have a hammer drill with the side handle, can be used as hammer or regular drill. I'll have to find it and see what size it is.

thanks for the tips Bhollar
 
Any preference of the two?
We use steel they dont break as often. A hammer drill will work as long as you can run it in regular drill mode. Have you checked the price to have the tiles broken out by a pro? You are going to have allot of money in a setup to break out one liner. We typically break out for allot less than it would cost to get a whole setup. And then if something goes wrong you are covered by that pro's insurance.
 
We use steel they dont break as often. A hammer drill will work as long as you can run it in regular drill mode. Have you checked the price to have the tiles broken out by a pro? You are going to have allot of money in a setup to break out one liner. We typically break out for allot less than it would cost to get a whole setup. And then if something goes wrong you are covered by that pro's insurance.
I'm looking around now to see what it would cost to have someone do it. Looks like I'll have $200+ tied up in doing it myself
 
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