Running Out of Seasoned Wood

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jscs.moore

Feeling the Heat
Sep 9, 2015
291
Eastern PA
Hey guys...I have gone thru almost all of my seasoned hard wood and I still have another 2 months of winter weather ahead. Only saving grace is that it's been pretty mild lately (50's) and I haven't been burning much the last few weeks. I do have about 2.5 cords of unseasoned Oak & Red Oak sitting on wood racks in my yard that I plan to burn next season.

My question is...if I decide to burn some of this (about 27% to 30% MC) by mixing it with the dry stuff, does it help to cut some of it down to smaller splits?? I have already started to split a couple wheel barrows full into much smaller pieces in anticipation I might have to burn some of it if we get hit with some really frigid temps or major snow events, etc. Has anyone tried this and does unseasoned wood burn better if cut down to smaller splits??? Thanks!
 
Don't do it. Source some dry wood or look into bricks or something. Save your wood if it's unseasoned at all costs IMO. It's like an appreciating asset as it cures and throwing wet wood in with your dry wood is just depreciating the value of your already seasoned wood.
 
Get Bio bricks. Burn oak next year. better year after next year.
 
No reputable wood sellers around? where are you located?
 
Don't do it especially if you have a cat stove.

If you are near rural areas or have farmers in your area I would drive the area and knock on some farm doors as most farmers usually have lots of stashed firewood drying out in some out building somewhere for later use and/or resale in the coming years, you can probably purchase a few face cords of dry seasoned wood to get by with this year. Many farmers will gladly tell you who in the area does have some for sale if they do not have any themselves.
 
Don't use the wet wood. Do you have any friends/neighbors that have extra wood? Any reputable firewood dealers that have seasoned wood? Any kiln dried firewood in your area? Possibility of using bio bricks? I'd be considering all of my resources to acquire seasoned wood.
 
Minority here, but yes, smaller splits will burn better, you may be able to get by by mixing, though it won't be ideal. Maybe mix with some pallet wood.
 
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People burn wet wood all the time. It will not burn as well or put out as much heat. It is better than nothing. Get the fire burning hot and then put it in. Stack up more as soon as you can for next year.
 
Thanks for all of the feedback guys. Yeah, I plan to scrounge and see if I can get some dry wood from some local wood cutters, but as you know that is almost an impossible task this time of year. I can also purchase kiln dried wood but know that stuff is expensive and not always as dry as they advertise. I hope to avoid burning the unseasoned wood if at all possible.
 
Pallets got me through my first year. Lots of places are giving them away.


Construction scrap.

Bricks

As a last resort split your wood small and let it dry beside the stove a bit before burning.

Check Craigslist. It may not be as dry as you want, but you have to burn what you've got.
 
Do like the vast majority of the country and use your traditional furnace until you have properly seasoned wood to burn. Sometimes this 'I will never fire up my furnace at all cost' mentality is just plain silly. (I'm not saying this is your mentality, but I hear it all the time on this forum).
 
I burn wet wood. No harm in it as long as you realize why it's different and react.

You need to load and burn differently, recognize that your flue is going to be cooler, and inspect and sweep frequently.

If you're not willing to inspect and sweep your own flue, I wouldn't mess with the wet wood. (I also wouldn't own a wood stove, but that's probably not a popular opinion around here. :p. )
 
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Yes except you are literally wasting the woods btus due to the higher moisture content using them up to be able to evaporate that moisture.

Burning truly wet wood is usually an exercise in frustration and creosote. Sure it can be done. But it's wasteful at best and potentially dangerous at worst.
 
Thanks for all of the feedback guys. Yeah, I plan to scrounge and see if I can get some dry wood from some local wood cutters, but as you know that is almost an impossible task this time of year. I can also purchase kiln dried wood but know that stuff is expensive and not always as dry as they advertise. I hope to avoid burning the unseasoned wood if at all possible.
I would get some highly compressed brick fuel, like BioBricks or ECO bricks to extend current wood supply. Is there a Tractor Supply nearby? They sell Redstone Fuel blocks. Might be worth picking up a ton.

If looking for firewood check craigslist and maybe some of the local large suppliers. Go to them with an axe or maul and a moisture meter and check out the wood in advance. If it is truly seasoned it will cost a premium for sure, but it will provide good heat.
http://brightsfirewood.com/bright/firewood.ashx
http://chrisorserlandscaping.com/firewood.html
 
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Depending on how "unseasoned" the oak is, it prolly won't be ready next year. Oak is a 3 year process for optimal burn & heat output.
 
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Yes except you are literally wasting the woods btus due to the higher moisture content using them up to be able to evaporate that moisture.

Burning truly wet wood is usually an exercise in frustration and creosote. Sure it can be done. But it's wasteful at best and potentially dangerous at worst.
Depending on the market for green versus seasoned wood, the BTU per dollar ratio might not be that far out of whack.

I find that I can get my green loads just as hot as my seasoned loads, it just takes longer and doesn't last as long. No, it's not ideal, but you can certainly reach safe burning temps.
 
Pretty much in order of what I would do:

- Pallets; a lot of work, but instant burnable wood
- Bricks; another instant winner, far less work than pallets, but costlier
- Use the furnace; supplement, as needed*, with your good seasoned wood

* As needed is killable-cold temps; this is location- and person-dependent. Here where I live and for me and my wife, killable-cold temps are in the low 30's and lower (that's a positive number, BTW). For you and your location, killable-cold temps might be 10's and below, don't know. The point is, only use your seasoned wood when you really need it.

Note that burning unseasoned wood, especially in the +25% range, is not an option; it's just now worth the time and work, plus the creosoete and the extra work to clean the chimney more often.

Good luck!
 
Depending on the market for green versus seasoned wood, the BTU per dollar ratio might not be that far out of whack.

I find that I can get my green loads just as hot as my seasoned loads, it just takes longer and doesn't last as long. No, it's not ideal, but you can certainly reach safe burning temps.

Just remember. It's called wood burning because wood is the main ingredient. ;)

I've burned wet wood before it isn't very much fun at all. And in a modern stove, even less so.
 
Cut a few arm load into smaller splits and bring it house for a week or so. Split it again after a week and see where your at. It may be close enough to start using mixed with dry stuff or bricks.
 
Note that burning unseasoned wood, especially in the +25% range, is not an option; it's just now worth the time and work, plus the creosoete and the extra work to clean the chimney more often.
I'm not trying to be argumentative and I recognize that I'm one of the most inexperienced burners in this forum, but I really don't understand the "extra time and work" argument with wet wood. I 100% acknowledge the inefficiency, but what extra work? I've used the same size splits of wet wood as I did when I was burning dry wood and the only difference is that I leave the door cracked for the first ten minutes of each load. After that, I'm burning at full non-creosote temperatures with good secondaries.