1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Hearthstone Soapstone and Cast-Iron stoves( Wood, Gas or Pellet Stoves and Inserts)
    Caluwe - Passion for Fire and Water ( Pellet and Wood Hydronic and Space Heating)

Running without a baffle

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by gyrfalcon, Feb 3, 2013.

  1. gyrfalcon

    gyrfalcon Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2007
    Messages:
    1,621
    Loc:
    Champlain Valley, Vermont
    OK, so I was reading the thread on this forum about baffles, and decided to educate myself and have a good look at mine. Looked like it was out of place, which might explain why I've had some difficulty getting the temp up above 350 in the last couple of days.

    You can probably figure out the rest. I poked it gently, and it instantly broke apart and fell into the firebox.

    It's Sunday, so can't even call the stove shop to see if they might possibly have one there until tomorrow.

    Is it dangerous to run the stove without a baffle? It's a tiny firebox and a fairly cool-running stove anyway, so although I don't have a flu probe, I doubt there'd be an outrageous temperature going up the flu without it, but I don't know that.

    Advice hugely appreciated. (I do have oil heat back-up, but the tank is getting low so would sure love to be able to use the stove for some heat to help out until I can get a replacement baffle.)

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!





  2. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    48,332
    Loc:
    South Puget Sound, WA
    That's a bummer, though it does help explain the anemic temps. I'd try and fashion a temporary baffle. Otherwise the heat is just heading straight up the flue. If it is getting the flue pipe consistently over rating, that would be bad.

    I'd be tempted to cut a piece of steel 12.5" x 5.675" and slip it in above the burn tubes to serve as a temporary baffle. The thicker the steel the better (within reason). If stainless steel is available that would be good. Keep an eye on it and watch for warping. Stop burning, and remove if warped.
  3. gyrfalcon

    gyrfalcon Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2007
    Messages:
    1,621
    Loc:
    Champlain Valley, Vermont
    Thanks, BeGreen. Unfortunately, I have neither a steel sheet nor tools for cutting it.

    (FYI, as a very small soapstone stove, 400 to max 450 is about where it cruises anyway.)

    I can't remember what the flue is rated for, but it is a fairly new (put in 5 yrs ago) stand-alone insulated high-quality SS pipe, with double-wall flue from stove to where it goes out through the wall just below the ceiling.

    Looking carefully at the pieces that fell into the firebox, I see that a good 3/4 of it is intact-- though obviously fragile. I can't experiment with it until the fire dies down, but would it be worth the trouble to let the stove cool completly and then put that piece back up so there's only about 1/4 of the space that's open?
  4. EatenByLimestone

    EatenByLimestone Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2006
    Messages:
    4,848
    Loc:
    Schenectady, NY
    I'd put what you can back up. A spare firebrick or 2 might help also.
    gyrfalcon likes this.
  5. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    28,740
    Loc:
    Northern Virginia
    gyrfalcon likes this.
  6. PLAYS WITH FIRE

    PLAYS WITH FIRE Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2011
    Messages:
    639
    Loc:
    Pittsburgh, Pa.
    Maybe get some firebrick like the one that line fireboxes and use them, maybe?
  7. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    48,332
    Loc:
    South Puget Sound, WA
    Not a bad idea. I would think that even with the fiberglass mesh Durock could work if no Hardibacker is available. Durock Next Gen would have some insulative value as well.

    My concern with firebrick is that it might be too thick and restrict flue gases. At 9" long it would also leave a 3.5" gap in front.
    gyrfalcon likes this.
  8. PLAYS WITH FIRE

    PLAYS WITH FIRE Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2011
    Messages:
    639
    Loc:
    Pittsburgh, Pa.
    Yep, what the modes said..
    gyrfalcon likes this.
  9. velvetfoot

    velvetfoot Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2005
    Messages:
    6,688
    Loc:
    Sand Lake, NY
    That was me and it was the totally unreinforced stuff you use for its r value under a hearth, which I've totally forgotten the name. It'd be interesting how long something else of a generic, ie cheap, nature would last.
  10. gyrfalcon

    gyrfalcon Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2007
    Messages:
    1,621
    Loc:
    Champlain Valley, Vermont
    Thanks. I just did put it back up, so there's now only a couple inches on either side that are open. Probably less heat going up there than there was with the whole thing tilted up as it apparently has been for several days.
  11. gyrfalcon

    gyrfalcon Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2007
    Messages:
    1,621
    Loc:
    Champlain Valley, Vermont
    Oh, that's a great idea. If the dealer doesn't have one on hand, I'll do that.
  12. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    28,740
    Loc:
    Northern Virginia
    Member HeatsTwice was the one I was referring to that used HardiBacker. Might check with him to see how it worked.
  13. velvetfoot

    velvetfoot Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2005
    Messages:
    6,688
    Loc:
    Sand Lake, NY
  14. gyrfalcon

    gyrfalcon Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2007
    Messages:
    1,621
    Loc:
    Champlain Valley, Vermont
    That Hardiebacker looks like great stuff, if I can cut it to size, which it doesn't look from the comments on the vendor site like it's necessarily all that easy.

    I may do that before calling the dealer. I'm intending to get a bigger stove for next year and will have to give this one away because of various problems (worn down latch lip in the cast door frame, not to mention cosmetic problems and now the baffle), so sounds like it makes more sense to use the very cheap Hardiebacker for the rest of this heating season rather than spending 50 bucks on a new baffle.

    Great stuff, guys! I knew you'd know what to do.
  15. gyrfalcon

    gyrfalcon Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2007
    Messages:
    1,621
    Loc:
    Champlain Valley, Vermont
    Me no fndee Memberheatstwice, Member Heats Twice or Member Heatstwice in the search box!
  16. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    28,740
    Loc:
    Northern Virginia
  17. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    48,332
    Loc:
    South Puget Sound, WA
    Cutting Hardibacker or Durock is easy. You just score it heavily with a utility knife on both sides, then snap it up toward you at the score line.
  18. velvetfoot

    velvetfoot Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2005
    Messages:
    6,688
    Loc:
    Sand Lake, NY
    The micore lasted a month for me before it fell apart.
  19. gyrfalcon

    gyrfalcon Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2007
    Messages:
    1,621
    Loc:
    Champlain Valley, Vermont
  20. gyrfalcon

    gyrfalcon Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2007
    Messages:
    1,621
    Loc:
    Champlain Valley, Vermont
    Oh, good. Thanks very much.
  21. topoftheriver

    topoftheriver Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2013
    Messages:
    238
    Loc:
    Northeast
    I'd prefer buying vermiculite and cutting it to size. It should always work and won't warp.
  22. Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle

    Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    May 27, 2008
    Messages:
    4,951
    Loc:
    Ridge, LI, NY
    Hang in there, Gyr !!

    It'll get done some how !!

    Rooting for you, GF !

    *I have no other advice* o_O
  23. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    28,740
    Loc:
    Northern Virginia
    And you would run right out this afternoon and buy it where?
    gyrfalcon likes this.
  24. topoftheriver

    topoftheriver Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2013
    Messages:
    238
    Loc:
    Northeast
    In most cases you would have to buy it online. You know that! But in the meantime, there are solutions for the short term like some temporary sheet metal replacement. If it need bending, the bend it. I don't know of any place that sells vermiculite in squares, sheets, or otherwise. I meant nothing by the suggestion but only as a solution. But thanks, Bro Bart. It's always nice exchanging ideas, wouldn't you say.
  25. Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle

    Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    May 27, 2008
    Messages:
    4,951
    Loc:
    Ridge, LI, NY
    Gyr is a woman, living in the mountains in Vermont... ain't gonna happen too quickly.

Share This Page