Rutland black cement cracking

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Malak

New Member
Jul 30, 2008
40
North Central CT
Has anyone else had issues with Rutland black
cement cracking and breaking off of black
stovepipe? Do you think I need to rough up
the surface maybe? Also, they mention wetting
the surface with water and I did not do that.
Could be a bad batch obviously also.

thanks
 
Malak said:
Has anyone else had issues with Rutland black
cement cracking and breaking off of black
stovepipe? .....

Also, they mention wetting
the surface with water and I did not do that.....

Could be a bad batch obviously also.

Let's see, you didn't follow the directions, it didn't work out, but it's potentially a bad batch? Odds are it's user error not a product problem. Strip it off, clean up the pipe and try again following the directions, let it cure slowly (too high a heat too fast will cause cracking too) and then see how it works.
 
Hi temp silicone is a much better option on P and/or L vent pipe.

Eric
 

Attachments

  • P1040064.JPG
    P1040064.JPG
    25.4 KB · Views: 419
Yeah, I'm not big on red silicone on black pipe. Isn't there
a high temp engine RTV that may work or is that only good
for 400 degrees?

Glad to hear that it's not just that I didn't totally follow the
directions. :p How many people even READ them? Give
some credit.
 
There is a black ("noir" for you north of the border folks) but it is rated at 450 degrees.
 

Attachments

  • P1040250.JPG
    P1040250.JPG
    70.7 KB · Views: 424
Um... yes... click the picture in post number #3.

600 F right on the tube.
 
Malak said:
Um... yes... click the picture in post number #3.

600 F right on the tube.

That's likely not the continuous rating, it's probably only "heat resistant" up to 600°. Meaning that it cannot take more than a few brief periods at 600°. Can someone read the back and state the true (continuous) temp limit?
 
R&D;Guy said:
Malak said:
Um... yes... click the picture in post number #3.

600 F right on the tube.

That's likely not the continuous rating, it's probably only "heat resistant" up to 600°. Meaning that it cannot take more than a few brief periods at 600°. Can someone read the back and state the true (continuous) temp limit?



Nothing on continuous but flexible from -85 f to 600f

Eric
 
I work in engineering among many other things, and yes it's true that they milk the max ratings, but the true continuous ratings are often only 50 degrees off of that number. I'm disappointed with the lack of imagination of many people on this site. Everyday, things are discovered which break all the previous rules of materials. Nearly nothing is impossible if you have an open mind.

Ok, maybe it IS impossible to get all green lights when you are late for work. LOL
 
Malak said:
Ok, maybe it IS impossible to get all green lights when you are late for work. LOL
Not impossible - just illegal (federal crime now) if you do it yourself unless you're an emergency personnel user of something called MIRT. It's a box that sits on your dash or hooks to your visor and can override the traffic signals to green for you. The signals have to be IR capable (depending on where you live that's probably between 1/3 to nearly all). You also need to buy a MIRT box (http://www.skyoptics.com/Mirt.htm) or build one yourself http://www.i-hacked.com/content/view/176/44/

As you pointed out...nearly anything is possible :)
 
Yes, I actually knew about that, and forgot, but thanks for proving my point.
We never would have reached the moon with an attitude of things being
impossible or unlikely.
 
Malak said:
I work in engineering among many other things, and yes it's true that they milk the max ratings, but the true continuous ratings are often only 50 degrees off of that number. I'm disappointed with the lack of imagination of many people on this site. Everyday, things are discovered which break all the previous rules of materials. Nearly nothing is impossible if you have an open mind.

Ok, maybe it IS impossible to get all green lights when you are late for work. LOL

Ahh good another engineer. :coolgrin: Well if you are really for breaking previous rules then red silicone it is.
 
Malak said:
Has anyone else had issues with Rutland black
cement cracking and breaking off of black
stovepipe?


I don't think you're going to find many people in
the pellet mill section who have used the Rutland cement
on their pellet stove piping because it's just not necessary
if, you use the correct pellet vent pipe for your application.
Most of the time a thin bead of hi temp silicone on some
of the joints is all that is needed for these setups.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.