S.Steel Stove pipe run

[Buzz Saw]

Here goes nothing..... I'm new to the site but I've been reading and stalking about on here on and off for a few months.

In the next few years I'm moving to a new location going to be building a building for a workshop/garage/ IWB and wood storage. Not sure about the size, but probably 40'x60' with 14' or so ceilings. So my question is, Should I run the Stainless steel stove pipe up the inside of the building through the ceiling, then through the roof or should I go through the wall and then up the outside of the building?

What are the pros and cons of each method? If I go indoors do I use single wall or double wall?

Thanks for you input

 

[chimneylinerjames]

My vote is to go straight up from the stove, through the ceiling and roof and out. My reasoning is you will have awesome draft. No 90* turns, very good possibility to have it perfectly straight. Cheaper, less class A pipe, more use of stove pipe. And personally I don't like the look of a class A chimney ran on the outside of a building.

As regards stove pipe, from the stove to the class A, if money isn't an issue and you want to do it the best possible way the first time, go double wall stove pipe. Its stainless inside, will only help draft and reduce creosote and clearances. The only negative is price. But it's not going to break the bank. It's alot cheaper than running class A on the outside.

I would go straight up with double wall stove pipe.

 

[phantomblack]

I have a stove In my shop (not a boiler like your proposing). I went straight up with double wall in the shop, then Triple wall the rest of the way. The stove drafts awesome, and the installation looks good cause most of it is hidden from view. I also do not like the look of an external chimney.

 

[BoilerMan]

The only advantage to a Through-the-Wall setup is that you don't have a roof penetration. It will not draft as well, costs more, is colder and will condense more, and as others have said, looks bad. One thing to consider if going throught the roof is keeping the chimney close to the peak. Nothing worse than snow/ice sliding down a roof and taking out the chimney with it. Also, close to the peak, there is less rainwater running around the flashing, less chance for a leak.

If you are using metal roofing, I'd keep the chimney just off peak, therefore you can tuck the roof flashing kit under the ridge cap, and use closures around the bottom of the flashing for a nice clean look.

I put too much thought into these things sometimes...............

TS

 

[Buzz Saw]

I put too much thought into these things sometimes...............

You're not the only one. We were thinking along the same lines. I'll have to play with the layout of my shop to get the flue more towards the peak, but that should not be a big deal.

 

[BoilerMan]

You're not the only one. We were thinking along the same lines. I'll have to play with the layout of my shop to get the flue more towards the peak, but that should not be a big deal.

I'd be inclined to do an offset on the single wall inside before I'd move it off center outside for the reasons I stated.

FWIW: Our local Amish community make single wall SS pipe, it is very nice to have the entire flue system 100% SS, I even use SS rivets/hardware, looks great and peace of mind. Don't forget a T somewhere for a cleanout, I like to put mine horizontally off the back of the boiler, that way after brushing the flue you can remove the T and not get soot all over the place.

TS