S260 Legacy (country) Fresh Air Kit

[db54]

Perhaps not so much of a question as it is the results of an arduous journey.

Purchased the S260 Legacy (Mfg by Country Stove) that has now been absorbed into Lennox. At first I thought the efficiency of burning was great since it was slow. The only thing slow was me as within 2 years I had glazed the flue as the stove (in the finished basement) was not getting enough air! The reality set in this burning season as the flame with door open was great (not too smart to leave it that way) but when closed it would hardly stay lit.

Yup, a 6'foot dryer vent attached to a Model 71111-Leg appears to have done the trick in providing enough air flow. The install cost was fair but the price of the kit $187.00+ tax appeared a bit high although the retailer swears up and down it's cost + 10%. I have my doubts since I called specialty supply and for the same product $70.00 + $15.00 shipping. Maybe it's more than an alumnum dryer vent.

The question that seems to arise is what to do with regards to "turning off the outside air"? There is no knob as in pellets. The indication I was given is if I close the damper even with the flu control open I could get a "puff back". So how does or does one have control over this oh wise vizeers?

Incidently, the S260 legacy has a number of problems with it and would not be on my short list next time around but that is for another day.

 

[begreen]

Puffback occurs when a large amount of unburnt gases in the firebox suddenly ignite. This can happen in stoves that are drafting sluggishly. It can occur with a good stove like your Country. The issue can be with the flue system and negative pressure or both. To avoid the issue, don't let the stove smolder. Make sure that a good hot kindling fire is going before adding more wood. After adding a fresh load of wood, leave the door ajar a little bit until the new wood is burning vigorously.

Flue remedies can include making sure it is sized correctly for the stove, reducing connecting elbows and/or horiz runs, insulating the flue or lining it. Negative pressure solutions can include adding an OAK and addressing other sources of competition in the area like dryers, furnaces, or bath fans.

 

[db54]

Puffback occurs when a large amount of unburnt gases in the firebox suddenly ignite. This can happen in stoves that are drafting sluggishly. It can occur with a good stove like your Country. The issue can be with the flue system and negative pressure or both. To avoid the issue, don't let the stove smolder. Make sure that a good hot kindling fire is going before adding more wood. After adding a fresh load of wood, leave the door ajar a little bit until the new wood is burning vigorously.

Flue remedies can include making sure it is sized correctly for the stove, reducing connecting elbows and/or horiz runs, insulating the flue or lining it. Negative pressure solutions can include adding an OAK and addressing other sources of competition in the area like dryers, furnaces, or bath fans.

Funny (well not so) that you say that as the declaration of victory could be premature. It appears when I closed the baffle on the flue ever so slightly the flame dyed down. When I opened the door, the draft is as you described above (along with leaving the baffle fully opened).

You could also be accurate on leaving the door open until it ignites as it seems to create a better draft otherwise the flame seems to dye at times. It definately died out when the babble was slight adjusted.

One thing on these Country Stoves - there is an 8" reducer to a 6" pipe that is what I have as it is keeping with the flue size. Again, you speaking to "rightsizing". Of course the discussion was had on changing out the pipe and opening to an 8" but does that improve the draft? There is also a slight dog leg left run on the pipe into the flue as well.

At this point if I could find my old saltbox Old Mill stove, I'd reinstall it and throw this freakin one out in the woods!

 

[db54]

Negative pressure solutions can include adding an OAK and addressing other sources of competition in the area like dryers, furnaces, or bath fans.

Yes, we added an OAK-Leg unit and it appears to be running somewhat better. The problem with the OAK however is now there is no way to shut off the intake air when it's not in use. One thing the installed remarked about (not favorably) is the way the OAK attaches to this S260 T-Top. The attachment of the adapter box is inserted into the air channel and bolted in with a 1/4" bol-up until snug against the adapter box. He seemed concerned about this approach.

Either way, it's a bit chilly when not in use. I don't know if I can close the flue baffle and stove damper when not in use. What do you think?

 

[begreen]

One thing on these Country Stoves - there is an 8” reducer to a 6” pipe that is what I have as it is keeping with the flue size. Again, you speaking to “rightsizing”. Of course the discussion was had on changing out the pipe and opening to an 8” but does that improve the draft? There is also a slight dog leg left run on the pipe into the flue as well.

Country only recommends using the reducer for when the flue is straight up vertical (no offsets) and over 14 feet. It does sound like that may be part of the issue.
Does this connect to a clay tile-lined flue? If so, what's the interior tile dimensions? Also, is this an interior or exterior chimney that it ties into?

FWIW, a friend of mine has an older version of this stove. It's a good performer for them.

 

[db54]

Country only recommends using the reducer for when the flue is straight up vertical (no offsets) and over 14 feet. It does sound like that may be part of the issue.
Does this connect to a clay tile-lined flue? If so, what's the interior tile dimensions? Also, is this an interior or exterior chimney that it ties into?

Took a few days but one what a piece of great information the above was. Truth be told the installer at the time has been backpedling ever since. The dealer that sold it up until this month kept saying, oh Country is saying a liner is needed and so on and so on.

Then from the horses mouth (both out of Ca - from Mike & Tn service for Lennox randal) you need a 14' - 15' riser (no offsets) when using a reducer from 8 to 6". They both should have known this and was surprised to hear that not only did the dealer not but amazed the installer did not as well.

Gee, I wonder where I had heard this same information! Unfortunately, they are now both backpedling and pointing the finger at each other. The OAK may not have been necessary at least not as the 1st step and while it may help, hadt the correct piping been done or done know it will improve the draft but should have been the 1st thing installed. Not what was intalled and how it was installed.

Thanks to this place for providing some GREAT INSIGHT into my delemma.

It is an exterior & clay liner and I believe the flu is 8 x something or according to the recent
install troubleshooter - just enough for 8" stove pipes to work.

 

[begreen]

Get rid of the reducer and 90 and it should be happier. You also might see if you can add a bit of height to the chimney. Maybe add an extendaflue?

 

[db54]

Get rid of the reducer and 90 and it should be happier. You also might see if you can add a bit of height to the chimney. Maybe add an extendaflue?

Agree on the reducer but am not following the 90. The only way to rid the 2 45's on the stove pipe (if I understand this) would not be possible as to the location of the flue and the wood stove itself.

The only change would be - eliminate the reducer and use 8" single (maybe dbl) wall pipe. It would follow a similar configuation by coming up 2 or 4' (I've been told the 8" cosmes in 2 foot sections) then a 45 elbow for another 2 - 4' with another 45 and then one more 1-2 pipe into the newly created 8" pipe opening.

This is my laymen's view of the change that appears to have consensus that would improve the drafting.

 

[begreen]

Sounds like I may not have the complete picture (can you post a shot?). If there are already a pair of 45's connecting, are they 6" or 8"?

 

[db54]

yes, the current look is a reducer (from 8" to 6") on the stove to a 6" stove pipe (sp) thats 2 1/2" up to a 45 elbow and another 6" sp that slants to the left thats 3' to the 2nd 45 elbow and the final 6" sp thats 1' into the flue.

I'll try to get the kids to take a picture. The 1st sp went cherry red although it wasn't the stove that Overheated as I was told but more likely the configuration of the 6" -vs- what I should have had i.e. the 8"