I used my 8 year old Quad Santa Fe this season for several weeks and noticed it failed to start on occasion. Upon further investigation, it seems there weren't enough pellets fed initially to start the process. The fire would fizzle out. Resetting would take care of the problem. Now, the auger doesn't start at all. I check the vacuum tube and jumped the vacuum switch but it didn't help. I removed the auger motor and checked to see if it turns with direct power applied and it works fine. I then put a meter on the connectors going to the auger motor and found there was only .5 volts. I believe this is where the problem lies. I've searched for any symptoms of low voltage to the motor but I couldn't find a thing. Anyone seen this and know of a solution? I think it may be a control board but I don't want to buy a replacement until I'm sure.
Santa Fe Auger not getting proper voltage
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If I remember correctly there is capacitors that can go bad that help drive the auger motor. Hopefully kap can chime in with his Quad knowledge.
Welcome,I change title to get more specific attention of your problem
Welcome,I change title to get more specific attention of your problem
Have you tried jumping #2 snap disc? Checked for bad or dirty connections that isn't letting enough power thru? The capacitor is an option, but it usually just makes motor turn only one way, and starts reversing some when going bad. You can get a capacitor jumper to replace it, part # 239-2150. Have you unplugged stove and made sure control box is properly seated? Do you know of someone with another stove you can try your control box in to eliminate it as the culprit? And always make sure you unplug stove before removing or installing control boxes or you will toast them. kap
I did jump the disc with the orange and black wire. NOt sure if that is #2 or not. I've checked all of the connections as well. I jiggled the control box but didn't actually unplug and reseat. I don't know anyone else that has a Sante Fe. Is there an actual way to test the capacitor os can it be replaced. I'll check on the capacitor jumper option.
capacitor testing
http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/How-to-test-a-capacitor
A quick check you can also do, is connect your meter to the capacitor and watch the resistance, it should start low and rise, (cap charging) reverse the leads and it should repeate. What's hapening is the battery of the meter is charging the capictor and the resistance rises with time, reversing the leads changes the polarity and the the meter is then draining the cap and recharging it.
http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/How-to-test-a-capacitor
A quick check you can also do, is connect your meter to the capacitor and watch the resistance, it should start low and rise, (cap charging) reverse the leads and it should repeate. What's hapening is the battery of the meter is charging the capictor and the resistance rises with time, reversing the leads changes the polarity and the the meter is then draining the cap and recharging it.
Tested all the capacitors on the board and the largest one may be bad. It shows no resistance using the Ohm testing method. According to the testing instructions given me, this indicates it is bad. One thing I did not do is remove the capacitor from the board before testing. The capacitor looks ok. It's not bulging on top and the solder connection looks solid. If this is the problem, I'll start looking for a replacement capacitor. I'm sure it would be cheaper than replacing the whole board.
Well, I had checked the power coming into the harness and that's where I saw low voltage. Initially I suspected it was a bad motor and bought a replacement which I connected and tried plugged into the harness but it didn't turn either. Granted, it wasn't completely installed and the old motor did work when I directly applied power to it. That's why I figured the motor must not be getting the correct power.
If all connections are good, and capacitor is good, only thing left is the control box. If you can fix it, you just found a part time job for all Quad burners that their control boxes go.lol Used to be a guy on ibc that side name was RCA. He could fix them. kap
Haha...Wish I had the know-how to fix it. It would probably cost more in time to troubleshoot than it's worth. The board looks simple though with just a few components. I just hate paying for the whole board when it's probably just one part. Overall, I have to say that I've been pleased with the trouble free performance from this Sante Fe. I've only had to replace a disc several years ago and that's all.
I was able to pick up a control box locally for about $200. Installed it and still no power going to the auger motor. There really aren't that many components left to check. I should have picked up an additional disc just for good measure. I'm wondering if the vacuum switch is bad, although I did jump the the connections and still no response. The only other thing I can think of is that there is a disconnect somewhere in the wiring harness behind where the control box connects. Looks like the power wiring for the motor comes directly from the 120 power source with a wire coming from the control box. I can't believe this has been so difficult to determine where the problem is.
I'm still working to resolve this.
I finally buckled and called a service guy from the next town 50 miles away. He happened to be in town and came over to check out the stove. He went through all of the steps I had tried and could not figure out the problem either. He left after an hour and I still have a broken stove. The only suggestion he had was to try and replace the vacuum switch and snapdisc. I did both this week and the auger still doesn't get power. I checked all of the wiring again and finally removed the control box mount and made sure all connections inside the strip would make contact with the control box. Still doesn't work.
I finally buckled and called a service guy from the next town 50 miles away. He happened to be in town and came over to check out the stove. He went through all of the steps I had tried and could not figure out the problem either. He left after an hour and I still have a broken stove. The only suggestion he had was to try and replace the vacuum switch and snapdisc. I did both this week and the auger still doesn't get power. I checked all of the wiring again and finally removed the control box mount and made sure all connections inside the strip would make contact with the control box. Still doesn't work.
DO you have the ability to trace the power? Where it is and where it isn't? Have you checked the reset switch? Discs and vac switch you can jump to bypass them to see if they are bad. Sometimes those wire ends get weird and need crimped tighter to slide on spade connector better. kap
One side of the power to the auger comes directly from the igniter which comes directly from the AC terminal in the back of the stove. The igniter works so I know that side works. The other two come from the control box. Therefore I know the power is being interrupted by something on that side. I've bypassed both the vacuum switch and snapdisc so I don't think it is the connections there. I have checked all of the other connections, too, and they're all snug.
Are you sure you are bypassing snap disc #2? They are usually right by snap disc #1 on right hand side of stove. They do change em around at some point tho. If you have a tester, I would still test the wires to see where power is and where it isn't. Just remember that when stove calls for heat, there is only 60 seconds that power would be headed for the auger. You have to hit reset to get more time. kap
Are you sure the vaccum switch isn't suppose to be normally open? Mine is in which case jumping it wouldn't do anything but taking the wire off would.
I think the vacuum switch is supposed to be closed. However, I did replace the switch this week with a new one and same result.
Reset works. I can hear the relay in the box click, which I think is supposed to be starting the auger
When the exhaust fan starts and creates a negative draft in firebox, vacuum sucks the switch closed in vac swtich, making contact for power to pass thru.
Have you verified the appliance is completely grounded. I had my Fe apart for 3 hours today with another engineer and verified it was not grounded properly which can easily short a circuit board.Check the wiring diagram where the ground is supposed to connect at the thermocouple connection in the junction box - this ground probably is not there.
Did your new control box come with a set of connector wires? It should have an additional ground between the thermocouple connection and the ground screw on the chassis on the right hand side.
Poor wiring QC by Quad in my opinion.
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