SCORE! Now seeking Century FW300 install advise

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boostnut

Member
Nov 2, 2007
220
central IL
I just picked up a Century FW300 thru a local classified ad for $300. Been looking for a stove to get some heat into my 24' x 24' detached garage, insurance company even gave me the ok! My existing setup in the house (insert w/liner thru masonary chimney) was a no brainer, this one is new to me.

To keep costs down I would like to use single wall up to the roof penetration. There is no ceiling in this garage. From what I've read, it looks like the single wall requires 18" of clearance to combustables and the stove requires 15". Can this be reduced if I put some cement board sheets on the studded wall? I have 3 sheets of 1/4" wonderboard left over from an old home improvement project, will these be of any help in reducing the ctc? If not, is steel an option? I do steel work for a living and can likely get my hands on whatever sheet or plate that may be required.

Next, should I install a flu damper? If this stove would benefit from one I'd prefer to install it now vs. cut things apart later.

Lastly, any advise on the roof kit (flashing, thimble, whatever you call it) and the type of pipe to use thru and above the roof? Its a 4/12 pitch and the stove pipe will penetrate near the peak.
 
According to NFPA 211 the stove could be reduced to 12" clearance but NOT less. If the stove needs to be 15" I would guess that puts the pipe around 17" - 18" anyway (unless its a rear vent, then I am sorely mistaken). If the stove is 15" - 16" and the pipe is 18" plus, I'm not sure the wall protection required would be worth the 3 to 4 inches. I can supply a chart of approved clearance reduction methods if you like but you'll need to make sure your local building dept. will approve it as well.

My personal thought on the flue damper is no, but I've never used a stove that was not "air tight" with a good primary air control.

Use Simpson Duratech for chimney, the quality is great and it's made in the USA.

Jason
 
Thanks Jason. Question for ya, you stated "I’ve never used a stove that was not “air tight” with a good primary air control". This is an air tight stove with primary air control, secondary combustion, epa approval, ....... I think I see what you mean but wanted to be sure. Are you saying that the flue damper in not necessary since I have full control of the intake air?
 
Yes, that is exactly what I meant. EPA stove with good primary air control should only have a damper if the chimney is too efficient. For example, my stove at home is on a 6 inch chimney that is about 28 feet tall. A small amount of it is exposed near the peak, and there is about 4 feet of double wall connector. The rest of this things is insulated pipe right thru the middle of the house. With a full load of dry wood, my stove is glowing in 15 minutes. I could probably use a damper to tame the chimney a bit.

Hope this helps.
Jason
 
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