I recently found what's left of the screen for my late 70's grandma in a pile of scrap that was sitting outside for probably more than 20 yrs. Frame seems good...the 2 handles are black w/ no rust however the screen is gone. Wondering if anyone has ever put glass in an original frame? I'm thinking that might be much better than sucking all my heat out of the house. This stove cranks all the time to heat this ~1840 farmhouse. I installed a new 6" SS chimney straight thru the peak w/no bends about 24'. Stove also has 5/16" baffle that makes it run like a dream. No problem burning w/doors open and damper slightly closed. Any thoughts?
Screen Rebuild
- Thread starter Mule skinner
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I hope you're burning with some sort of screen in place with doors open.
Glad to hear with baffle installed there is no smoke spillage even reduced to 6. I'm convinced their goal with the larger 8 inch outlet was to allow more heat up larger fireplace flues. Remember, they are called The Fireplace Series !
If you make an air intake in top and bottom frame for air wash over glass it may help keep it clean. Once up to temp you may be able to run it with that as the only intake, but when reloading you're going to need to shut doors and open draft caps for more air. Glass door Grandma stoves have side mounted air intakes for primary air and front inlet air wash for glass. Once up to temp, air wash is enough to sustain fire. The stoves without side primary intakes (Honey Bear) also have a horizontal plate across the top of door opening inside to prevent smoke from rolling down across glass. You would need to seal the old screen frame to stove front with gasket material to make the stove air tight with glass in place for precise air control.
Glad to hear with baffle installed there is no smoke spillage even reduced to 6. I'm convinced their goal with the larger 8 inch outlet was to allow more heat up larger fireplace flues. Remember, they are called The Fireplace Series !
If you make an air intake in top and bottom frame for air wash over glass it may help keep it clean. Once up to temp you may be able to run it with that as the only intake, but when reloading you're going to need to shut doors and open draft caps for more air. Glass door Grandma stoves have side mounted air intakes for primary air and front inlet air wash for glass. Once up to temp, air wash is enough to sustain fire. The stoves without side primary intakes (Honey Bear) also have a horizontal plate across the top of door opening inside to prevent smoke from rolling down across glass. You would need to seal the old screen frame to stove front with gasket material to make the stove air tight with glass in place for precise air control.
Thanks for the come back. Don't burn with the doors open certainly wouldn't last very long I suppose. For the air wash are you suggesting a slit in top and bottom of frame? Wondering if it would allow too much air? This chimney drafts so much that I'm closing the damper all the way all the time except when opening the doors, and my draft caps are spun against the stove. Top of the bend settles in about 650-700 when cruising. Have you ever heard from anyone who has done this? Also, do you think the smoke shelf like the honey bear would be necessary?
The intakes around glass are elongated holes with a flat plate with matching holes drilled through it. It slides open and closed to block the holes for air adjustment. Held in place with screws in slots to allow sliding back and forth. The plate sticks out on one side with a hole through it for the end of a poker type tool to hook in to slide it open and closed.
It should have the horizontal plate above door to prevent air from rushing upward into flue and cooling it. The intake air needs to be directed across glass.
Open ......... 
Closed
The stove body sticks out like a frame that the doors seal on with the air openings above and below doors.
You have an air leak around doors. It should glow with little to no flame or go out with draft caps closed.
Make sure the door seal (iron channel) and back of doors are clean. Wire wheel the inside of door seal channel iron to bare metal the same as doors. The raised area on door should seat in the door seal channel and the channel iron edges should be clean and seal against the back of door on each side of the raised door 'lip". By opening only one door, you can see the contact area in the center of channel iron and if the two edges of channel iron are making contact on the back of door. This 3 point contact should be good enough to be considered "air tight". Worn hinge pins and door handle adjustment can allow them to leak. Do the handles both appear to be the same angle when closed and latched? Don't force the latch tighter.
It should have the horizontal plate above door to prevent air from rushing upward into flue and cooling it. The intake air needs to be directed across glass.
Open ......... ClosedThe stove body sticks out like a frame that the doors seal on with the air openings above and below doors.
You have an air leak around doors. It should glow with little to no flame or go out with draft caps closed.
Make sure the door seal (iron channel) and back of doors are clean. Wire wheel the inside of door seal channel iron to bare metal the same as doors. The raised area on door should seat in the door seal channel and the channel iron edges should be clean and seal against the back of door on each side of the raised door 'lip". By opening only one door, you can see the contact area in the center of channel iron and if the two edges of channel iron are making contact on the back of door. This 3 point contact should be good enough to be considered "air tight". Worn hinge pins and door handle adjustment can allow them to leak. Do the handles both appear to be the same angle when closed and latched? Don't force the latch tighter.
I know that my doors aren't a great fit. When the room is completely dark I can see a very small strip of glow where the doors meet and overlap. They are clean in the grooves. The draft caps are also not a flush fit when screwed in but they are close enough. Even with the driest locust for fuel, it doesn't get beyond about 600-700 when the stove is clamped down for the night and usually I'll have about 1/4 turn or less on each cap but the pipe damper is always closed. Here are a couple of pics of the archaeological find.
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