Sealing Stove Pipe?

[boatboy63]

Parkboy,
Can't do it now since it has all been siliconed. Before the stove cement/mortar was first put in the seams/joints, I did do a similar smoke test with a cigarette. I did see evidence of it pulling smoke, but since the stove was hot, it was hard to continue. When the stove is hot, it and the pipe puts out enough heat that it will actually "draw" the smoke up beside the pipe at a good rate of speed. This is because hot air rises.

 

[PARKBOY]

Parkboy,
Can't do it now since it has all been siliconed. Before the stove cement/mortar was first put in the seams/joints, I did do a similar smoke test with a cigarette. I did see evidence of it pulling smoke, but since the stove was hot, it was hard to continue. When the stove is hot, it and the pipe puts out enough heat that it will actually "draw" the smoke up beside the pipe at a good rate of speed. This is because hot air rises.

What kind of silicone did you use to seal it up and how is it holding up to the heat?

 

[boatboy63]

Permatex Ultra Copper. For the most part, it is holding good. Does seem that on the lowest part of the pipe where it connects to the stove flange, seems to be wanting to pull off in 1 spot. None of what was put on the flange was actually pushed into the cracks. It was just squeezed from the tube and not tooled in. All the other joints were tooled in by finger and is in good shape. Has been in the 50's for the last couple days, but is supposed to start getting colder tomorrow. This should give us a chance to heat it up a little more and see how it goes.

 

[bigbluebus]

Permatex Ultra Copper. For the most part, it is holding good. Does seem that on the lowest part of the pipe where it connects to the stove flange, seems to be wanting to pull off in 1 spot. None of what was put on the flange was actually pushed into the cracks. It was just squeezed from the tube and not tooled in. All the other joints were tooled in by finger and is in good shape. Has been in the 50's for the last couple days, but is supposed to start getting colder tomorrow. This should give us a chance to heat it up a little more and see how it goes.

I understand exactly your line of thinking. I had the same concerns, I have about 14 ft of stove pipe inside the house from stove to ceiling, all in 2-ft sections and all with seams running lengthwise.

When I first put this setup together, I sealed the joints with stove pipe the best I could but most of it has crumbled and fallen out; but when the new stove replaces the current Chinese POC Vogelzang, I'm going to use a solid steel pipe (no seams) instead, if I can find a supplier by the time the new stove arrives. I figured a solid pipe will also be much safer in case of horizontal movement. I've also heard that in a case of a flue fire, the seams in the stove pipe will actually blow out and come apart (definitely don't ever want that to happen to us). I don't know if this is true, but I'd rather err on the safe side.

 

[mhrischuk]

How about taking a hand full of powder and blowing it lightly by the gaps and watch and see if it is sucked into the gaps?

Light a match and blow it out next to the gap. See if it draws in the smoke. You can use a cigarette if you smoke.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I have always used furnace cement in the joints of the stovepipe. Yes, you can get by without doing it but I still feel it is good and the stuff really is cheap so we are not talking about a big deal here.

 

[RustyShackleford]

Sealing the pipe joints isn't going to hurt anything, we only use Elmers and I see no room for cement in the joints. Woodstoves put out tons of heat, try not to think it to death. ;-)

So you find that Elmer's pipe actually fits together ? Here was my experience:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/67805/