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Sealing The Air leaks In US Stove 6041 Pictures Included

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by Gary Gileau, Dec 24, 2012.

  1. Gary Gileau

    Gary Gileau Member

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    100_0166.JPG 100_0167.JPG I have always had to run the agitator on my 6041. After a few hours the fine ash would settle to the bottom of the burn pot and the flame would die down. Ultimately the pot would fill up and you know the rest. I tried cutting the feed rate and that just delayed the inevitable. I was following a thread here the other day on a discussion about sealing up the burn pot. I got me thinking, if I'm losing air flow around the outside of the pot that may be some of the problem. I also remembered an article about two holes behind the masonry board. So today I had some time, I went to Preston Trading Post and picked up some gasket material. I noticet that all the better stoves had gaskets on the feed hopper. I put a gasket for the hopper lid then I pulled the pot and the cement board and found the holes that I read about. Inch and a half knockout plugs from the electricle department works perfectly and you can pop them out anytime and put them right back in.

    I always could see the first row of holes in the burn pot through the glass window. There was maybe 3/16" - 1/4" gap. This part may be a work in process. I took some gasket material and attached it to the pot. That really closed the gap up!

    Please excuse my sooty hand where I'm pointing to where the smoke was making its way arount the back of the cement board;em

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  2. 343amc

    343amc Feeling the Heat

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    Those plugs made a big difference on my stove.

    One other thing I did that made a difference was covering up the ash dumps in the bottom of the stove. I noticed that there was air coming through the gaps on the cleanout slides. Ash never piled up there. I bought a piece of 1/4" thick steel stock from Menards. Think it was $9 or so. I cut it so it covered the ash dump. In the middle I drilled a hole and put a screw in it so I can easily pull it out. One one end I ground a notch that fits around the screw that acts as the slide stop. See the attached picture. It's extremely crude but it works. Ash piles up on the bottom instead of getting sucked into never never land. When cleaning, pull the clean out slides and the covers slide back. Grab the screw, shake the dust off, clean, close clean out slide and reinsert the cover.

    I haven't done a burn pot gasket yet but I may try that after seeing your pics.


    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1356396041.383292.jpg
  3. Gary Gileau

    Gary Gileau Member

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    Thanks! I'm looking for all the input that I can get. I'll post more photos as I go.
  4. frogman

    frogman New Member

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    So i have the same stove and what are you trying to do by covering the holes behind the brick? what does it do for you? right now i dont have a problem witht the pot filling up or anything i do have it hooked to a thermostat and it is working good but if it can be better by plugging the holes i will try it.

    does this slow down the amount of ash behind the cleanouts make for a better burn or is it just tinkering?
  5. 343amc

    343amc Feeling the Heat

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    In my eyes the idea is to pull air only through the burn pot and not through other areas. The stove burns cleaner with those plugs installed. They pop right out when cleaning.

    Of course I'm not using science, just perception based on how long the glass stays clean. Before I made the changes to my stove the glass got dirty after a few hours. It can now run for a couple days before getting dirty, assuming it isn't chugging along on low.

    I got the plugs at Menards. They're in the electrical section and are 1.5 inch plugs for electrical panels. They were about $2. Pop right in and out as needed.
    Gary Gileau likes this.
  6. dragracer300

    dragracer300 Member

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    stove looks a little rich. I have the same stove i think i'll try the burn pot gasket. I tried making a different slide draft to force the stove to only pull outside air and couldn't seem to get enough air to keep the burn clean. This year i'm having problem with the air holes plugging up after a couple day's of burning? I used to be able to go a week or more?
  7. frogman

    frogman New Member

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    The way i see it is the holes on the top of the heat exchanger and the holes behind the fire brick will make a circular motion of air for the fly ash to land behind the the clean outs now i could be wrong and most likley am but when you clean out the stove is there more or less ash behind there, does your compustion fan work harder by blocking the holes? i do see the fire get sucked back behind the fire brick and never liked that im guessing this will solve that problem. my only hold back is how is it when you do a cleanout behind there mine are mostly about half or so full. cleaner is always better in my book

    I am not really worried about the glass i dont sit and watch the fire i have a burn pit for that.. at any rate i will give it a try i am having good luck with the pellets i burn the ozarks in MO i live in Kansas so its nice to support local bussness plus thats all the stores around here carry...
  8. 343amc

    343amc Feeling the Heat

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    I haven't noticed any more or less ash in the clean outs. I have noticed more ash in the pan, especially the front of the pan, but that changed when i put the steel plates over the ash dumps to slow down the air that was being sucked through those. When I notice the sparks flying around they seem to go up then right back down instead of up never to be seen again.
  9. Gary Gileau

    Gary Gileau Member

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    That is a good idea! I noticed myself, that no matter how much ash there is in the bottom those slide plates are alway clean, except for a few jumpers
  10. Gary Gileau

    Gary Gileau Member

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    100_0167.JPG As I said earlier, I had added a strip of gasket material to the burn pot. It's been burning a few days now so I shut down the stove to see how it was faring. So far so good. Where I really noticed the difference was when I started the stove. It takes about half the time to get fire. I think because of the increased air flow through the pot and not around the outside. My method is not perfect yet but I think I'm on the right track. 100_0169.JPG I think what I'll do is get some stainless rivits once I'm satisfied.
  11. frogman

    frogman New Member

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    I do like the sound of that since i dont clean the pellets i just dump them in the hopper
    for now i will try the covers and see how it works
  12. frogman

    frogman New Member

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    for what it is worth i did the steps you posted here and found that the stove works at least 50% or more better after plugging the holes and covering the ash traps. i get a better flame when its in the right mode (on thermostat) my heat is much higher than it was do to the air going thru the burn pot instead of the ash traps. great post thanks for the ideas! now not thats its a problem but the glass will not film over in hours instead of a day. owell i want heat..i did not seal the burn pot i think it works good as is and will probably keep it as is..
  13. Gary Gileau

    Gary Gileau Member

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    Indeed!! I have noticed the same thing with the dirty glass. As you said though, I am far happier with the burn.
  14. dragracer300

    dragracer300 Member

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    I have tried all except the seal under the burnpot. I tried sealing off the slide draft but i just couldn't get enough air through the oak and it produced a sooty burn so i use both now. I have been thinking of increasing the size of the oak to 3" but it will be summer before i can do that. My house is like a barn very drafty and i can tell a big difference if i close the slide draft
  15. Gary Gileau

    Gary Gileau Member

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    Hmmm. I had the opposite problem. I had so much air that the pellets were burning up as fast as they fed in. I hate to ask a dumb question but. Did you remove the plug behind the burn pot and connect the 2" flex from the back of the burn pot to the rear of the stove? I got an idea from the guys at iburncorn.com. I actually had to put a plastic ball valve on the back of the stove to restrict the air from outside.
  16. dragracer300

    dragracer300 Member

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    Yes i removed the plug i also have a ball valve but i leave it wide open. I'm going to pull the oak apart on the next warm day and make sure i don't have a blockage. When i first put it on i put a fine screen over the end of the oak and then we had a ice storm and the oak froze over so i wasn't getting any air. That was a real sooty mess. It could be because i have mine on a thermostat that i need more air?
  17. Gary Gileau

    Gary Gileau Member

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    I have mine on a thermostat as well. That's crazy that our stoves run exactly opposite. You may be right, check for any blockages. The other thing is USSC recomends that you only drill four 5/32" holes in the plug and reinstall it! I don't want to sound like a parrot but have you cleaned the stove thoroughly lately? It has to breath out before it can breath in.
  18. dragracer300

    dragracer300 Member

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    I read that as well but i removed mine completely. I just did the leafblower sooteater cleaning today. I usually do this after every ton. The only place i haven't checked is the flex pipe i had to put inside the stove from the back of the stove to the burnbox?
  19. afreeace

    afreeace New Member

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    i just got the 6041i hope it was a good choice will have it all hooked up this week. will try your mods out asap

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