Sealing the flashing

[oilstinks]

Is it safe to use a tar sealer around the flashing on the roof as long as it dont touch the pipe?

 

[Hogwildz]

Muck or roof cement is a temp fix. With temp changes it will crack over time in the next few months.
If its on a shingle roof, shingle it in properly, if on a metal roof, use a good sealant such as urethane caulk. Clean the surfaces well before sealing, and keep away from pipe.
The storm collar can be sealed with hi temp silicone.

 

[oilstinks]

I have neither. It is Ondura corrugated roofing

 

[Hogwildz]

I have neither. It is Ondura corrugated roofing

Realistically, the roof should be slit at the top of the flashing so the flashing top slides into the slit, the rest will have to lay against the roof surface. But I assume you want to just lay the entire flashing against the roof surface?
Is it the standing seam type corrugated, or wavy corrugated? Another member just bought & installed a wavy corrugated silicone flashing to his roof.
Any chance of photos of the roof & the flashing you have?

 

[oilstinks]

http://www.ondura.com/accessories.htm I have this flashing panel, if u scroll down you will see it.

 

[Hogwildz]

I'd use urethane between that flashing panel & the roof, but you sill need a metal base flashing for the piping. I would also use urethane between the metal base flashing & the roof flashing panel. Good galvanized washer headed screws to fasten both down. How large is the square area on that roof panel for the roofing system?

Actually, I would call the roofing manufacturer an see what they require or recommend. I would still stay away from roof cement, it does not last long before it cracks, even if you use fabric mesh.

 

[oilstinks]

20" on flat surface. That panel is designed to go underneath a sheet at the top and sides leaving the flat surface and bottom exposed from what i understand

 

[Hogwildz]

Underneath at top definitely. The sides over or under is basically same difference, just need at least a couple corrugations overlap, the more the better.
The bottom goes over top the panel underneath it. So that neither the top or bottom is bucking water. Not sure what the size of you metal pipe bade flashing is, if possible, I would make it so the base of the metal flashing sits on top of the 20" flat area of the roof panel flashing. Urethane or roofing manufacturer recommended sealant and good rust proof washer head screws. You should be fine. The roof cement just will not last. And when it fails, you now have a big mess of it to scrape away. I'd still contact the roofing manufacturer and see what they suggest. It may be a warranty issue to do it the way they spec?

 

[brooktrout]

Flashing done right generally does not require sealing. Unless it is a retrofit, then sometimes it may need it. Flashing, by definition, IS the sealing. It's kinda like sealing the wax on your car. I've used copper flashing around all of the windows, doors, valleys, and the chimney. No caulk.

 

[Hogwildz]

Flashing done right generally does not require sealing. Unless it is a retrofit, then sometimes it may need it. Flashing, by definition, IS the sealing. It's kinda like sealing the wax on your car. I've used copper flashing around all of the windows, doors, valleys, and the chimney. No caulk.

If you look at is roofing system and what hes asking, you'll understand why he needs a sealant.
Flashing by definition is either installed when building whatever needs the flashing, or as you stated retrofitting.
Doorways & windows should be caulked when installed as far as I am concerned. No amount of metal is going to make an air tight seal. Maybe not necessary for water tight seal, but air tight seal around these objects. Absolutely.
And most copper work on a roof is soldered. Used to do it for a living.

 

[brooktrout]

Yes, you're right- I read it more closely. Sorry. I do caulk windows and doors ath the flanges. I was refering to the sill flashings. I solder my copper, too, but I meant caulk under the edges, etc. I guess it doesn't really matter as long as the job gets done. After reading my response I don't like my tone :down: Sorry. I'll go take a timeout.....

Flashing done right generally does not require sealing. Unless it is a retrofit, then sometimes it may need it. Flashing, by definition, IS the sealing. It's kinda like sealing the wax on your car. I've used copper flashing around all of the windows, doors, valleys, and the chimney. No caulk.

If you look at is roofing system and what hes asking, you'll understand why he needs a sealant.
Flashing by definition is either installed when building whatever needs the flashing, or as you stated retrofitting.
Doorways & windows should be caulked when installed as far as I am concerned. No amount of metal is going to make an air tight seal. Maybe not necessary for water tight seal, but air tight seal around these objects. Absolutely.
And most copper work on a roof is soldered. Used to do it for a living.

 

[Hogwildz]

Ah have a beer and relax, we are all a lil more on edge these days.
Looking forward to the mesmerizing, relaxing fires soon to be abundant.