We had an outdoor woodboiler, but sold it, and we are searching for a more efficient heating source that will tie into our ductwork. We are looking to heat a finished basement and two floors, 3,000 sq. ft. total, in our 14-year old 1 1/2 story. We have hot water radiators in the basement plus another water line to the garage and bonus room, which we plan to finish some day. The rest of the house is forced hot air from our oil furnace. We still have the heat exchanger from the outdoor boiler. We initially were leaning toward the wood gun, but the price is leading us to explore other options. We also really like the Kuuma, but we have flexible ductwork that is not high temp, and it is our understanding that you have to use high temp with the Kuuma. Now we are researching the Harman SF260 or DS Machine boiler or even the AHS coal/wood boiler due to the fact that they are cheaper. We plan to burn wood; not coal. Can anyone share their experience with burn times on these boilers, efficiency, and ease of use? Thanks for any and all help.
Searching for indoor central wood furnace
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brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Flex duct is not recommended for any wood furnace. Any burner that is designed to use coal or wood will be a compromise on both. Get one that is designed to efficiently burn wood if that is what you are gonna use. The Kuuma is a great choice, PSG Caddy is a good one too. Others with more knowledge on indoor boilers will have to chime in on that...
maple1
Minister of Fire
A boiler will do hot air & hot water heat via HXs - sounds like you already have the HXs. A furnace can only do hot air. That would lead me to a boiler in your case - it could also heat your garage.
Since you have a two storey - I would get the boiler I got. But we know little else about your situation, or preferences & priorities.
Since you have a two storey - I would get the boiler I got. But we know little else about your situation, or preferences & priorities.
As someone that used to install ductwork, commercially and residential, any flex duct over 6 inches in length is not advised. Bad flow. Poor performance. Your talking about the slinky looking stuff?
maple1
Minister of Fire
Of course you would get the boiler you got, you got it,
Can't help it.
Seriously, if I had found shortcomings with what I did I'd mention them - and aside from liking to have more storage than I do, there aren't any. If I didn't live in a two storey house, what I got likely wouldn't have worked, so then I'd be into more choices and not sure what I would have ended up with. If the OP just had forced air, or really wants a hot air furnace and not a boiler - then I would tell him to look at a Kuuma. Maybe a Caddy but I'm not sure if they have provision for DHW?
Can't help it.
Seriously, if I had found shortcomings with what I did I'd mention them - and aside from liking to have more storage than I do, there aren't any. If I didn't live in a two storey house, what I got likely wouldn't have worked, so then I'd be into more choices and not sure what I would have ended up with. If the OP just had forced air, or really wants a hot air furnace and not a boiler - then I would tell him to look at a Kuuma. Maybe a Caddy but I'm not sure if they have provision for DHW?
They do, at least the Kuuma doe's. But I think He would be better of with a boiler like yours, that will satisfy all his needs.
Thank you for the responses guys. We have long flexible runs off the main trunk for oil h/a and a/c, so unfortunately the simplicity of the Kuuma won't work at this point. A boiler does seem to be the best bet since we have the air exchanger on the oil furnace, cast iron radiators in the basement, a line in the garage, a line to a future build-out above the garage and the domestic h/w. We have a very large attached garage so most likely will be putting the boiler in the garage. We are willing to spend money to do this right, but at this time did not want to put into storage so that is the reason for considering the Wood Gun. However, there was a little sticker shock pushing ten grand just for the unit. Are there other gasification boilers that can be run without storage, and if so what do they range in price? Price is why we started looking at non-gasser wood boilers like the wood/coal AHS, Harman SF260 and DS Stove. I realize they will eat more wood than a gasser, but not near as much as the outside wood boiler we had. The reason I ditched the outside boiler is because life has changed, and it was becoming more of an issue with time and convenience. Trying to get an idea of how different the burn times and efficiency are for gas vs. non-gas boilers. Is the difference so great that I would regret getting a non-gas boiler? One thing of concern about the non-gassers is what I've read on different threads about creosote buildup. Thanks again, your inputs are appreciated.
maple1
Minister of Fire
Just my experience, for our heating & DHW - I went from about 8 cords/year + about 180 gallons of oil + 3 or 4 chimney cleanings annually, using a wood/oil combination smoker (with very poor heat transfer design), to somewhere around 6.5 cords of wood + no oil + no chimney cleanings + maybe $60 of electricity annually, heating our house to a MUCH warmer temperature. With a TON less time spent in boiler operation.
There are quite a few on here running Ekos, Biomass, Attack & likely more without storage - but it is highly recommended if at all possible. It doesn't have to be huge. But you can get by without it.
You should check with your insurance guy re. putting it in your garage before you commit to anything.
There are quite a few on here running Ekos, Biomass, Attack & likely more without storage - but it is highly recommended if at all possible. It doesn't have to be huge. But you can get by without it.
You should check with your insurance guy re. putting it in your garage before you commit to anything.
Chicken Farmer
Burning Hunk
I have a Charmaster Chalet non-gasser forced air furnace. It makes tons of heat and also has a hot water loop. It does make some creosote. I've swept my chimney twice this year. It is very simple, but most surely not near as efficient as a Kuuma or any of the gasser boilers that are mentioned here. There are no electronics on the furnace save for the fan, draft door solenoid and plenum temp switch. If I had it to do all over again, I probably would put in a Garn in a Garn-Barn. And I might do that still.
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