Serious help with my Chimney/Flue

[dpgoalie]

Hi all,

I am in need of some serious advice.

Here is the situation:

I have a 25 foot chimney with a 7x11 (Inside to inside) clay flue liner that has some cracks in it.
The cracks are bad enough that creosote has seeped through the concrete block.

I burn 24/7 with a 1975 Defiant that is out of control. (Probably due to being cracked and warped)
I have not been able to control the stove temps for the past couple of days and it's a safety concern
at this point. I want to replace the stove and install a new liner. I was informed from 2 stove shops
that I have to use an insulated liner since the flue is compromised. They also informed
me that the insulated liner required to match the 8" flue collar on my stove will not fit in the current flue.
They said my only options were to go with a smaller stove to match a smaller liner, or rebuild the chimney.

Does anybody know if I have other options or are the two above the only options I have?

Thanks in advance!

 

[ansehnlich1]

Yeah, get somebody to go in there and bust out that clay tile and haul it out of there. Then use that cement block chimney as a chase for the new, insulated, stainless liner.

Take some pics and post them on here so we can see what ya got for a chimney/hearth/stove setup.

 

[Dakotas Dad]

Since you state you know you need a new STOVE and chimney liner.. I don't understand the confusion. By a stove that takes 6 inch, nearly all do... Unless you need some really huge monster. What stove(s) are you considering?

 

[dpgoalie]

I am considering either an Equinox or the new multi burner Defiant.

 

[SKIN052]

How much space are planning on heating? Have you considered the PE Summit? Large fire box and only a 6" flue.

As for the liner, I would go with the pros and have it insulated. You are going to be spending a fair bit of $$$ so may as well spend the extra to have it insulated and done right.

 

[dpgoalie]

I was trying to add a picture but I am having trouble resizing it.
Do I just need a long rod to knock all the clay out?

Yeah, get somebody to go in there and bust out that clay tile and haul it out of there. Then use that cement block chimney as a chase for the new, insulated, stainless liner.

Take some pics and post them on here so we can see what ya got for a chimney/hearth/stove setup.

 

[dpgoalie]

I am heating about 2,400 square feet in a 200 year old home. My wood has all been cut to 24" so I need something to accommodate that. I need long burn times.

How much space are planning on heating? Have you considered the PE Summit? Large fire box and only a 6" flue.

As for the liner, I would go with the pros and have it insulated. You are going to be spending a fair bit of $$$ so may as well spend the extra to have it insulated and done right.

 

[SKIN052]

The tool connects to a drill and looks like a flail. You can also damage your brick so I dont think it is a do it yourself job.

 

[fraxinus]

dpgoalie: Consider having a poured in place liner installed. If they're available in your area, one should solve your problems without the need for the mess and potential damage involved in breaking out the liner. There are at least three brands available. Supaflu, Guardian, Chimney Savers. Supaflu (www.supaflu.com) is based in Scarborough, Maine and has a number of installers throughout New England. I'm not sure about the others. My personal experience with Supaflu has been completely positive. In all cases, insulation is automatic as is adding to the overall strength of the chimney.

 

[cmonSTART]

Hi dp, unfortunately I agree that your chimney liner needs to be insulated, and to do so you will need to break and remove the old clay tile, whether it's a 6 or 8 inch liner. It's a pain in the rear but necessary.

 

[toddh]

What if you ran a 6" liner down it without insulating? I know this isn't the best but it would keep from breaking out the old liner which will be expensive.

 

[cmonSTART]

Todd, it depends on the local building inspector where he lives. A lot of places in NH are becoming more strict about adhering to NH Code regarding wood stoves.

 

[KarlP]

What if you ran a 6" liner down it without insulating? I know this isn't the best but it would keep from breaking out the old liner which will be expensive.

If the clay liner was in good shape with an airspace between the clay and brick, I'd be all over that not-technically-up-to-code solution. However since the OP said "The cracks are bad enough that creosote has seeped through the concrete block", he needs a new masonry or insulated stainless chimney. If he got a chimney fire inside an uninsulated liner it could touch off that creosote outside the liner.

 

[Dakotas Dad]

I am heating about 2,400 square feet in a 200 year old home. My wood has all been cut to 24" so I need something to accommodate that. I need long burn times.

How much space are planning on heating? Have you considered the PE Summit? Large fire box and only a 6" flue.

As for the liner, I would go with the pros and have it insulated. You are going to be spending a fair bit of $$$ so may as well spend the extra to have it insulated and done right.

I would not base my stove on the current pile of wood, but at 2400sqft and old possibly drafty home.. bigger is better..

Many easy ways to reduce your wood length to accomadate a stove change.. And unless you have like 100 cords stacked up, no big deal to cut next years wood the needed length.. and the next years.. etc