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Sharpening A Full Chisle Chain

Post in 'The Gear' started by Ralphie Boy, Dec 2, 2012.

  1. Ralphie Boy

    Ralphie Boy Minister of Fire

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    I’m of the understanding that a full chisel chain requires a different type of file and is sharpened differently than a other types of chains. Is this correct;? And how about a semi-chisle chain;?

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  2. JustWood

    JustWood Minister of Fire

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    No
    No
    and
    No
    Same round file. Different size chains require different size files though.
  3. Ralphie Boy

    Ralphie Boy Minister of Fire

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    That's what I thought; but somewhere out there I watched something that showed using a couple of different type of file shapes as well a a flat file for the rakers. If I can find it again I'll post the link.>>
  4. JustWood

    JustWood Minister of Fire

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    You probably saw a "square" file . Those can be used on chisel chain also. The technique for that file is a little harder to master IMHO.
  5. TreePointer

    TreePointer Minister of Fire

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    I know of some file guides (Carlton File-O-Plate) that are different for semi- vs. full-chisel cutters, but the round file is the same for a given pitch, as LEE mentioned.
  6. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    smokinj likes this.
  7. bogydave

    bogydave Minister of Fire

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    +1
  8. StihlHead

    StihlHead Guest

    Full chisel can be filed round or square. As stated above, square filing is a lot harder to do, and it also dulls a LOT faster.

    Basic rule of thumb:

    square filed full chisel chains are 10% faster than...
    round filed full chisel chains, which are 10% faster than...
    round filed semi-chisel chains.

    Generally you want to run full chisel chins in clean wood, as they will dull faster than semi chisel chain (which, while they cut slower, also dull slower, especially in crud). Square filed full chisel chain has really thin points where the chain chisels into the wood. Round filing these chains makes the chisel points stronger and more durable.

    Similar issue with chain grinding angles; bigger angles are sharper and cut faster, but they also dull faster.
  9. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    Are a semi chisel chain, and a safety/low pro chain two different things ??
  10. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Yessir.

    There be green label semi chisel chains, green label full chisel chains, green label low-profile semi chisel chain, green label low-profile full chisel chain, yellow labels of all the above as well. ==c

    FWIW: Most green-label chain is of the semi-chisel type. Stihl's RSC3 being the most common exception.
  11. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    OK , I'm a little more clear now ;lol
  12. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    Full chisel=square tooth, semi chisel round, low pro has extra rakers/depth stop, right ????? :)
  13. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Low-pro doesn't necessary have anti-kickback stuff on it. Low-Pro is chain that is designed to run on smaller saws. It shares the same number of drive links per given length that regular 3/8" chain has but that's about it.

    We refer to the chain with all the "extra" junk on it as "green-label" or "safety" chain.
  14. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    Found this thread also Dumb question about chainsaw chains. I think I got It now;lol
  15. StihlHead

    StihlHead Guest

    Actually they are three different things: semi-chisel, safety, and low profile (AKA, Picco) are all different aspects of chain that may or may not be found on a loop. Safety chains have less kickback, and hence less grab in the wood. As a result, they do not cut as well or as fast as non-safety chains do. Safety chains may or may not have the high raker guard links between the cutter links. The design of the cutters and rakers alone may make a chain a safety type, and it may be full or semi-chisel, and it may be low profile, standard 3/8, or .325 chain.

    To show the safety type on Stihl chains, there are either green and yellow colored master links on a chain. Green is safety, yellow is non safety. There are similar colored marks on the base of any new Stihl bar as well, with either yellow or green colored spots. Generally wider nose bars (with larger nose sprockets) are more apt to grab more wood, so they have more kickback and are yellow, or non-safety bars. Smaller nose bars have less grab at the tip and are prone to less kickback, so thy are considered safety bars and have green marks.

    Clear as mud?
  16. Boog

    Boog Minister of Fire

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    Every day it becomes oh so much clearer!
  17. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Until your mind becomes a sea of part #'s, chain types, sharpening methods, operating technique, safety protocol, troubleshooting tricks, and doh! moments. Then you seek some poor unsuspecting internet community to unleash the whole mess upon.
    Wildo likes this.
  18. Boog

    Boog Minister of Fire

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    Yeah, but we love you for it, you can always come home after a long day on the job to us, we're here waiting for you. Well, I suppose you have to spend some time with that pretty wife and kid! But not too much now, don't loose sight of your priority :cool: !
    Wildo likes this.
  19. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    ;lol;lol That's exactly whats happening to mind, and-
    - Today I go get a couple of 7/32 files, thinking I am going to use these files in the guide that came with the 5/32 kit I bought but, as I"m touching up a chain with the guide and a 5/32 file, I see it says right on the guide 5/32, so IDK
    The guide I have is Oregon File Guide and 5/32 in. File
    Do I need a different guide for the 7/32 files :confused:
  20. TreePointer

    TreePointer Minister of Fire

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    Yes. There is a different file guide for each pitch.
  21. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    OK, Thanks
    the depth gauge for the rakers is the same though , correct ??
  22. StihlHead

    StihlHead Guest

    There are many types of Oregon file guides out there. The guide type dictates what files can be used in them. The kind I use is an Oregon Pro file guide. They are a bar mount file guide and they take any size file and will sharpen chain to any angle or offset. Here is what they look like:

    oregon file guide.jpg
    I also have a mini electric grinder stone type with 5/32 and 7/32 stones for touching up a chain between file sharpening. They look like this, and there are 12V DC battery types and plug in 110V AC electric types:

    electric chain sharpener.jpg
    Then there are the mini dedicated file guides that I do not use myself, that only take one file size. They look like this:

    file guide.jpg

    Then there is the Oregon raker file guide for using with a small flat file that looks like this:

    raker depth guage.jpg
  23. StihlHead

    StihlHead Guest

    For Stihl 3/8 std chain, I use three files: I start with 7/32 when the chains are new, then use a 13/64 when they are 2/3 used, then I use 3/16 when they are toward the end of use. The cutters on Stihl chains are tapered in height and I learned this filing trick from a Stihl/Husky saw shop owner who was a logger for many years.

    Oh yah, and here is a graphic showing cutters and sharpening style for semi and full chisel chain, the first two are round filed semi and full chisel, the last is square filed full chisel:

    cuttertypes-1-1.jpg
    smokinj and TreePointer like this.
  24. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    The last 2 pics are what I have for the low pro chains,W 5/32 files , but now I need 7/32 file guide, like that for a full chisel chain
  25. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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